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I've used heat cables (not that one) and they work but they are normally rather high in wattage (mines was 100watts) Flexwatt is much more efficient...

Superworms are perfectly fine, you just need the appropriate sized ones for your dragon. They come in 4 different sizes and can be fed from out of the egg..

Wet in = wet out.. So if you don't want to contend with the smell (which wont go away since it soaks into the egg flats) then stick with a dry diet and only add water/crystals for humidity. (put it in something they can't get into..)

Females can live upto a couple years but the males I believe are only 6mo. This is why I warn people who are so eager to get rid of all males is the simple fact that they die a lot earlier. Also they don't mature any faster so it still takes a while to produce more.

Glad to help!

What I have seen is when a bin isn't properly warmed all over that they will migrate to one spot and in doing so will suffocate those on the bottom of the pile so to speak. They die and then they sort of just roast right there and yes it is a horrible stench.

Thanks for all the awesome compliments. I am glad this has been helping people. If you can't get ahold of me here feel free to hit up my FB page in the link bellow as well. As far as the separation goes I only do it once every other month or 1.5 months but yes that is how you have to do it...

They can get into points where they become tired of their staple food.. it happens. Just be prepared because it might not be a battle you'll win. Try and give him roaches along with other things and see if that works. Trust and believe if you are randomly still feeding him things like horn worms...

You understand that there is a chance he simply doesn't like roaches?

How bout mealies never? They have no nutritional value and can easily impact smaller dragons eaten in bulk. Do your dragon a favor and cut mealies out of the diet completely. They are dirt cheap for a reason but ironically your dragon would gain more nutrition by literally eating dirt.

Due tot he size, horn worms will put the weight on the fastest bare none and do so in the healthiest way possible.

Get Discoids then...

Supers aren't very fatty nor are they a good staple food so good job feeding them something better like crix. Dubia is like candy to most beardies so you might want to try that. Other than butter worms it is by far the favorite staple feeder.

Supers most certainly will bite you more likely than any of the other 3 biting worms. Silks are the least unlikely. Horns will try on contact but can't until they achieve larger sizes. Supers however wont typically bite you if you pick them up or simply hold them (they can however) but if you...

Its the ammonia in their feces.

The privilege to roam is earned and EASILY lost... :lol: I have a few dragons that are extremely chill and they are allowed out when ever they want and to punish the others I make sure they roam around where they can all see them. :twisted: A few of them are too fast and even though they mean...

Its not uncommon.. A bunch of my beardies will only eat reptis as a last resort so I save them for off days. I'll give greens in the morning and wont feed anything else until evening and at that point they will all eat the reptis. I have a few girls who will eat ANYTHING but the others aren't...

Sounds to me like you only need a few Dubia on hand and like mentioned before, focus on feeding off females to avoid breeding. Its blasphemous advice but that is the only way. Understand that a female will produce at least 20-40 nymphs each and you are going through roughly 100 a month so...

He should be fine. Make sure you go light on the carrots since they carry high levels of Vit. A however..

The first picture is of a male with no wings. It either shed without them meaning your humidity was poor and it lost its wings in the shed or they were possibly eaten. (As clean as it looks he could have very well shed without them which isn't normal but also nothing to be alarmed about. The...