Tummy Spots?

[Meowser]

Hey, so I was wondering what these
weird spots on Mimi's tummy are.

I thought is was bruising.
Went to Pet Smart and they said it was internal.
Then I went to a Pet Hospital and was told it was natural markings.

Anybody have any idea?

 

[Beardednoob]

Tell the animal hospital if they do not know, not to assume. They don't appear normal to me. Any foods that could have stained her belly if she lay on them, like blueberries?
What color is her tongue?

 

[Meowser]

No, she has had them since we got her,
her tongue is the normal pink.
They seriously look exactly like bruises,
under her scales and everything.
I figured that the breeder we got her from
grabbed her to hard or something
but they haven't faded at all.
A few of her scales around them are pale.

 

[Beardednoob]

I asked about the tongue color in reference to anemia.
I am unsure but, I have never seen that and wouldn't personally relate it to normal.

Bump, as I want to know too.

Hopefully someone who knows something will chime in soon.

 

[GlueStick]

I don't mean to sound grim, but from someone who has worked at pet stores for 4 years.... that def looks like internal bleeding. Unfortunately, bearded dragons and leopard geckos would be found this way upon arrival or soon after. I have no idea what it is or how it happens, if something fell onto them or if it is some renal lapse or something, but they usually end up dying =(

Is he eating okay? How is his activity level? Usually those with those markings would act lethargic and lose weight dramatically.

 

[Meowser]

She is eating fine, ate 15 large crickets this morning
as well as 2 superworms and numerous small crickets.
She has been a little slow/lethargic but
I think it was because I didn't have the UVB light,
I just got it today and she has been more active than she has ever been.
(but she is also kinda of slow mentally)
She doesn't seem to be in pain at all...

 

[Beardednoob]

She is eating fine, ate 15 large crickets this morning
as well as 2 superworms and numerous small crickets.
She has been a little slow/lethargic but
I think it was because I didn't have the UVB light,
I just got it today and she has been more active than she has ever been.
(but she is also kinda of slow mentally)
She doesn't seem to be in pain at all...

Shouldn't be feeding large crickets. The large crickets can cause impaction and might cause internal bleeding in the way of bowel fissures.
The crickets should be no longer in length the the distance between the dragons eyes.

 

[Meowser]

I just pulled out one of my large crickets
it is the size between her eyes minus the atenna.

 

[GlueStick]

Husbandry can play in an important role in an animals health, especially a reptile. I know you have probably been asked before, but I am going to ask it anyway. Sometimes environmental clues can help us discover what is going on. I don't think that it has anything to do with the cricket size at this point. She does look big enough to eat them, and it would cause harm/pressure to the spinal nerves if they were too big and she would have other symptoms of unrelation. The area that is 'discolored' looks to be around the kidney area. Usually when beardies or leopards display this type of discoloration, be it due to internal bleeding, renal lapse, or some other type of cause (and it could just be coloration! although i think this unlikely being that I have seen it so many times).

What is the size of your tank?
What is the temperature of your hot/basking side? And what kind of bulb are you using?
What is the temperature of your cool side? And what kind of bulb are you using?
What are you using to measure the temperatures? digital therms or stick on therms?
What are you using as a substrate? AND WHAT DID THE BREEDER HOUSE THEIR BEARDED DRAGONS ON before you bought him? (who is this 'breeder' anyway?)
What type of UVB are you using? flourescent tube, coil compact? What brand?
What else are you feeding her besides crickets?
Is she drinking a lot of water?

Unfortunately, if it is internal, there isn't much you can do other than keep feeding her, perfect your husbandry, and keep your fingers crossed. Most times animals exhibiting these signs can act normal for a number of days until it is too late, and then they drop in activity and weight very quickly. I will check in on you and see how it is going. Sometimes animals can be surprising and pull themselves through it.

 

[Meowser]

It is a 40 gallon tank.
the basking side is about 96, using the ZooMed 100w Basking Bulb
cool side about 80, I don't really use a specific bulb but I have the UVB bulb on that side.
I have a strip stick on thermometer on both sides.
My substrate went from newspaper to shelf liner and soon to be tile.

I have no clue about the breeder, he seemed legit
but the more we tried to talk to him and get info the shadier he got,
so I wouldn't put it past him to have done something wrong.

My UVB Bulb is the RepiSun 10.0 Compact Fluorescent.
I feed her crickets, lettuce, raspberries or blackberries.
She really doesn't drink the water,
but I give her baths and spray her down with water if I don't.

 

[GlueStick]

It is a 40 gallon tank.
the basking side is about 96, using the ZooMed 100w Basking Bulb Alright. Baby/juv beardeds should have a 105-110F basking temperature. But I think that it has to do with the thermometers you are using. I always recommend digital therms because the stick on therms can be up to 20 degrees off, as they measure ambient temperature, not specific temperature, and are relativity cheap in quality (they break very easily). As an example... it can say 96F on the wall, but where your dragon is sitting could be 120F. I like to use therms with probs specifically for the basking spots of cages
cool side about 80, I don't really use a specific bulb but I have the UVB bulb on that side. Cool side seems fine. You usually want it anywhere between 80-86F. But again, you are using stick ons, and strips at that. They're not even good for fish tanks in which they are originally designed for (not for use with reptiles)
I have a strip stick on thermometer on both sides.
My substrate went from newspaper to shelf liner and soon to be tile. This is perfect, as this was my primary concern. But again, I do not know what the previous owner had her housed on

I have no clue about the breeder, he seemed legit
but the more we tried to talk to him and get info the shadier he got,
so I wouldn't put it past him to have done something wrong.

My UVB Bulb is the RepiSun 10.0 Compact Fluorescent.
I feed her crickets, lettuce, raspberries or blackberries. Refer to Beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html. You should feed her more dark leafy greens, like collard, mustard, and dandelion greens. Stay away from iceburg lettuce, spinach, advocado, and rhubarb as these can be toxic or cause severe diahhrea.
She really doesn't drink the water,
but I give her baths and spray her down with water if I don't.

Other than that, I cannot say much unless you get more information from the breeder. Was she this way since you got her?

All that I can say for now is make the corrections stated above for absolute proper care and comfort. I would suggest in buying better thermometers, necessary for all reptiles (you don't want to be messing around with temps with reptiles. They are specific for a REASON.) You'll have to sit and wait it out, or find a REPUTABLE reptile vet because the vet you went to doesn't sound so clear cut to me. Its not normal coloration. But it could go away.

Here are the therms I use, but you can also buy larger, standing ones from walmart or target.
I use the Zilla therm with probe on the hot side of all of my cages.

And I use the Flukers therm/hygrometer on the cool side of all of my cages. Humidity shouldn't be higher than 50% and lower than 30%

 

[Meowser]

Thank you,
I will definitely see about getting better thermometers
and getting darker greens for her.
I did receive her this way from the breeder unfortunately.
I tried asking him about it but never returns my calls.
He has left the state though, so I guess I will never know.

 

[Beardednoob]

The UV source should be a linear not a compact/coil. The compact/coils can cause adverse health effects in bearded dragons.

 

[GlueStick]

The UV source should be a linear not a compact/coil. The compact/coils can cause adverse health effects in bearded dragons.

Thank you for picking that up (I was admittedly reading fast, haha XD. Its what I get for doing hw at the same time).

Yes, please use fluorescent tubes as the emission output of these bulbs (compact coils) can be inconsistent and very spot specific (not to mention these bulbs have to be changed every 3-4 months).

Petmountain.com is where I purchase my reptiSUN 10 FLOURESCENT TUBES. (I capitalize cuz I'm a noob =P) These must be chanbed every 6-8 months.
They look like this

Its okay to have this bulb mounted on the top of the screen, but keep in mind that the screen can filter out about 30% of UV rays. I mount mine on the inside of the cage so that there is not filtration of UV emissions and so that they are withing 5-10" of the bulb

 

[GlueStick]

Any updates? Spots still there or did they go away (hopefully!)?