May I offer my personal experiences (labeled "
P.E.") to some of the issues you're having with your baby beardie?
First and foremost, by having the wrong type of UVB, especially the ones that causes more harm than good, is extremely detrimental to your baby's overall well being. And the longer the bulb is being used, the more harm it is causing your baby.
P.E.: When Pookie came into my life, I was not in any way prepared to have him, meaning that I had no tank, no lights, nothing at all. I scrambled to buy whatever resources I could afford at the time (was thousands in debt due to a recent divorce), even if it wasn't what I truly wanted for him. In doing so, I purchased a Zilla Slimline hood and
UVB bulb. Everything was fine for the first few weeks, but then suddenly he stopped eating, wouldn't move from his tree branch, and eventually would only open his eyes about an hour a day. I even started to notice a gray ring around his eyes. After seeing the gray ring, I immediately knew that the UV bulb was the culprit for all of his other symptoms, that he was in the early stages of photokeratoconjunctivitis (Source:
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/uvinviv.htm). At this point, I decided that by having no UV for even 1 week (while the new hood and bulb was being ordered) was far better than continuing the awful Slimline one. At the 1.5-week mark of not being under the Zilla UV, Pookie perked up and started to open his eyes again, and he even got his appetite back.
What did your baby's previous tank setup look like? Was it fairly empty? Was it brightly lit or somewhat dark?
P.E.: When I still had my former boys Felix and Oscar (then step-son's beardies), any changes we made to their tank would set Oscar into a complete tizzy, meaning that he would be upset for nearly a week. When we changed from calci-sand (didn't know any better then) to non-adhesive clear shelf liner, Oscar refused to get down from his basking perch and had a 24/7
black beard for more than 4 days. I had to place his food bowl on the perch so he would eat; otherwise, he was ready to starve himself in protest. It wasn't until Felix "assured" his brother that he wouldn't die if he walked on the bottom of the tank did Oscar finally move. He wouldn't stay on the bottom for very long though, acting like his feet would be mysteriously burned by the shelf liner. :roll:
In order to properly gauge the basking temps, you must wait for the thermostat (whatever contraption you decide to use) to register for at least 10 minutes, as the surface could continue to get hotter prior to that time.
P.E.: When I brought Zoey (may she rest in peace) home at only 1 month old, I had the darnest time in getting the right basking temp. Because she was only an itty bitty baby, she was housed in a 20-gallon tank, with a ReptiSun 10.0 tube and a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for heat. It took me nearly an hour to get the temp to be steady at 103°F, with the probe positioned at the same spot on the tree branch.
Jettum":1h81ho5j said:
Dial/analog thermometers work by using a coil that expands or retracts depending on the temperature of the air around it.
The reason why most people do not recommend using the dial thermometers is because it is measuring ambient (definition: 1) of the surrounding area or environment; 2) completely surrounding, encompassing [Source:
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/ambient?s=t]) temperature, not true basking spot temps, which could vary as much as 15°F. If the ambient temps are reading 95°F, then the basking spot temps could be as high as 115°F, which is way too high even for a baby. Furthermore, an oven thermometer would also only be measuring the ambient temp, not a specific or direct spot.
Please feel free to read through the stickied post in the Enclosures forum entitled "
Thermometer Accuracy: Why Not To Use Dial Thermometers" for more information.