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Jubilee

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I have a 3 month old baby and she hasn't been eating for 2 days. 3 days ago she had one cricket but since she's just hasn't taken them. She's my first one so any info would be appreciated.
 

kingofnobbys

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Should be eating 20 small crickets 2x a day + some greens and chopped / grated vegs each day too, but he should be mostly eating mostly insects now.

You could try handfeeding the crickets to him (is easy to do , but a little risky (fingertip nips are a risk until you and he get the hang of it). Least that way you will know for sure she's getting her quota of live insects and it's a great way to bond too.

Might be coming up for a shed.

If you have an escape proof garden bed or back yard , taking her outside to get some REAL sunshine will also help with apatite and activity and general beardie wellbeing.

What are your temperatures ? If it's too hot / cold this will influence feeding.

UV lighting ? Insufficient UVA will reduce apatite.

How brightly lit is the enclosure ?
 

Jubilee

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She'll only eat hand fed I find. Temp are 90 with just the red light, almost 100 with the uvb/uva light. It's pretty bright. It's a smaller tank for now. She actually just shed so I'll try again. I'll try taking her outside.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Jubilee":259m8jyc said:
She'll only eat hand fed I find. Temp are 90 with just the red light, almost 100 with the uvb/uva light. It's pretty bright. It's a smaller tank for now. She actually just shed so I'll try again. I'll try taking her outside.

Toss out the red heat light - they are not suitable for beardies and really useless (they need bright white light + heat + UVA to promote activity and their apetite).

Best off using either a MVB mounted in a high quality all ceramic light socket that's rated for high temperatures and for the globe's wattage. A good quality MVB such as an Arcadia MVB will provide all the bright white light (sun like) + UVA + UVB + heat your little beardie will need.
Alterative is a good quality Par38 spot globe of suitable wattage mounted as per a MVB + a good quality CFB (I have been using UVB200 bulbs for my beardies since they were hatchlings , they are now 3 year old and have thrived). Or if you don't want to use a CFB to provide UVA and UVB , a good quality T5 or T8 UV tube that provides at least 10% UVB and sufficient UVA for beardies.

A smaller tank is OK for hatchies and juveniles . I kept mine in 100L tubs until about 6-8 months old.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Jubilee":19yyttrt said:
I'll definitely look into that. Would the mvb need to on 24 hrs or 12?
mvb on simple mechanical timer switch or an electronic timer switch , on approx. 14 hr / day .

Some keepers set up their on/off schedule so their MVB is off during the hottest part of the during summer for a couple of hours to keep tamp temps safe for their beardies, if their home is not cooled / aircon-ed ..... can get very hot here in summer.

My lights are on a timer , on 6am , off 9:30pm,
 

Jubilee

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I got some crickets and gave them alive. She ate some. The Ppl at the store said to freeze them so they go into hibernation but they never came back to live even in the fridge. I'm keeping what I have alive for now. I was thinking maybe a bigger holding set up with different temperatures would be better? I've looked at the 2 pet stores we have to offer and there's only 2 reptile brands of things to look for the lighting fixtures you mentioned. She's still feisty when she's out.
 
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Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!
is tape safe for fixing something in my leopard geckos hide?
Day 3 of brumation. It's a struggle. I really miss my little guy. 😔
Mirage entered brumation yesterday, I'm gonna miss hanging out with my little guy.

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