PLEASE HELP I THINK SOMETHING IS ALIVE IN MY BEARDIES TUMMY

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gulfbrzdawn

BD.org Addict
Hello,

I just wanted to tell you again how very sorry I am that you lost your sweet little beardie. I know it must have been very difficult for you and your boyfriend, trying to save the little guys life. I wish we could have done more for you.

I want to make you up a care sheet. I want to ensure that your other beardie has a proper set up and gets what he needs in order to grow and thrive. It might be a good idea for you to print this out for future reference.


Set Up
All you need in your beardies tank is a UVB light and a bright white Basking bulb.
The best fluorescent uvb light that you can get is the ReptiSUN 10.0( Not ReptiGLO 10.0). If you cannot find this bulb at a local petshop you will need to order it online. This site has the ReptiSun 10 at a reasonable price http://www.petmountain.com/product/fluorescent/504983/zoo-med-reptisun-10.0-uvb-bulb.html
The uvb fluorescent tube needs to cover at least half the length of your tank for good coverage. You want to have the uvb light and the basking light next to one another. This way your beardie will benefit from both lights at the same time.
Your beardie should be able to get within 6-8" of the uvb light and 10-12" of the basking light.

The temperatures for a baby beardie need to be 105-110 on the basking side and 80-85 on the coolside. If basking temps are not high enough your beardie will not be able to digest properly. If basking temps are too high your beardie may become dehydrated.
The temperatures are extremely important to the health and well being of your bearded dragon.
In order for you to get accurate temperatures in your beardies enclosure you must use either a digital thermometer with a long wire and probe end or an infrared temperature gun. No other thermometer will do! The stick-on or dial thermometers are not accurate and can be off as much as 20 degrees.
You can get a great digital thermometer at Walmart. It is called AcuRite and sells for $12. You can find it in the home thermometer section(not the pet section) This thermometer will give you the basking, coolside and humidity readings all at once.
When using a digital thermometer...place the probe(on end of wire) directly on the basking spot. Leave it there for 45 minutes to get the reading.

Substrate
The best substrates for your enclosure are papertoweling, reptile carpet, non-adhesive shelf liner, non-adhesive lino, newspaper, tile(ex:slate). Tile needs to have a rough surface for traction or your beardie will slide on it.
Do Not use any loose particle substrates such as walnut shells, sand, pellets, etc....(these are dangerous for a small beardie, due to the risk of impaction and harboring bacteria)

Feeding
For a baby beardie....never feed them a live feeder that is bigger than the space between their eyes. Pinhead crickets or Phoenix worms are great staple feeders for a young dragon. Your beardie should be offered live feeders 2-3 x a day. Allow him to eat all the feeders he can in a 10-15 minute period of time.
Along with live feeders your beardie also needs veggies/greens, a fresh serving daily. Here is a food chart that tells you what to feed and what not to feed your beardie http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html

If feeding your beardie crickets they must be gutloaded. Here is an example of what to feed them http://www.petmountain.com/product/cricket-insects-food/504509/cricket-total-bites.html


Vitamins
Your beardie needs vitamin supplements. They need Calcium and Multivitamins. Both of these come in a powder form that you dust their live feeders with.
The Calcium should be given 5 x a week(only dusting their feeders one feeding per day).
The Multivitamins should be given 2-3 x a week(dusted their feeders only one feeding per day)
Since you will be using a fluorescent uvb light(ReptiSun 10) the Calcium you use will need to be Phosphorus Free and with Vitamin D3


Bathing
You will need to bathe/soak your dragon at least 3-4 x a week. This is very important to keep your beardie hydrated. When bathing...put your beardie in a sink or rubbermaid type container filled with warm water only up to his armpits. You can put a washcloth in the bottom so that your beardie does not slip and feels safe. Allow him to soak for 15-20 minutes. Never leave your beardie unattended while in the bath!
You do not neccesarily need to spray or mist your dragon. they will get water from their veggies and bathing.

I hope this helps!

If you have any questions at all...feel free to ask!

Good Luck with your beardie! :D
 

kodobeardie

Member
Original Poster
WOW!@
that is a great care sheet to go by. thaznk you very much for taking the time too do this for me it means alot too us and our lil beardie :D
i have a question about temps of my tank. what if the temps are not high enough i bought a reptisun basking light 100W
i still need to go get the new uvb light (this weekend forsuer!) but if it is too low how do i fix this??
whats the closest he can be to othe lamp? he sits at about 5-6 inches at highest point at the moment hes in a 33gal tank ill be putting a pic or 2 up on here soon.
also, what worms aer BEST for him right now? all we have is mealworms and crickets that have their own food (they dont get gut loaded i didnt know i was too do this until lastnight)
thank tyou aagain for your concern and help it means very much too us.
 

mpinsky

Hatchling Member
A UVB light won't give off heat. It just gives off UVB rays (6-12" is this the distance your beardie should be able to get from it). The basking lamp, however (which would be your 100W), you can lower down if it is on an adjustable stand. If not, bump it up to a 150W basking lamp, however, a regular household bulb screwed in there will work just fine.

Again, mealworms really aren't the best thing for your beardie except as an occasional treat. Sticking with pinhead crickets is your best bet, but you could try silkworms. As a general rule, anything you feed your beardie shouldn't be any bigger than the space between his eyes.
 

mpinsky

Hatchling Member
They will have the crickets, though probably not the silk worms. Pheonix worms work just as well, just as Gulfbrzdawn stated. When Shenron was a baby, they never ran out of pinheads, more than likely from the fact that the store's older crickets were always breeding! :lol:
 

kodobeardie

Member
Original Poster
hmm not what i meant sorry, i meant for the crickets to have them gutloaded...
there was a link too cricket bites, for gutloading them what if the pet store dose not have these?
 

gulfbrzdawn

BD.org Addict
More than likely, if the pet store sells crickets they probably sell the crickets bites. Is this a chain pet store that you go to, like Petsmart or Petco? If so, they definitly have something to gutload your crickets with.

As for the heat in your enclosure the 100W basking bulb should be more than enough heat for a 33 gal tank. Did you get one of the two thermometers I recommended. This is very important to measure your temps correctly.
Just to be on the safe side....the basking bulb you have, you mentioned it being a ReptiSun. Would you mind making absolute sure what bulb you have...ReptiSun does not make a basking bulb.
 

kodobeardie

Member
Original Poster
i went to walmart to get a thermometer but the only one they ahd didnt have a humidity temp but i got it anyways. it is still escalating but is it 104 degrees right now
the bulb i got is indeed a repta sun basking bulb, it says so onthe box
3500hour 100watt
im going too the city on sunday for my 10.0 uvb light
 

kodobeardie

Member
Original Poster
what kind of thermometer do you use? so i know what too look for when i go too the city..
im sure any with 2 ends and a humidity temp works
 
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