New to Reptiles

[ironclaw37]

I just bought my first Bearded Dragon about six days ago and would really appreciate any advice on feeding my Beardie.

 

[Garrus]

Right. How much do you know about bearded dragons in specific. Could you describe your bearded dragon's setup please?

 

[ironclaw37]

I've been doing a lot of research for the pat week and have almost everything figured out. I have a 36x18x18 viv with a water dish and a stick for basking on the left(hot side) and a food dish a hiding placebo the right side(cool side) I have a rock in the middle with a tunnel through it and the back has rocky background that crickets and my Beardie can climb on

 

[Garrus]

Lighting?

 

[ironclaw37]

I'm pretty sure I have a 75-100w basking bulb and 10.0 IVB Light

 

[kingofnobbys]

I'm pretty sure I have a 75-100w basking bulb and 10.0 IVB Light

I recommend working methodically through my cheatsheet , you will likely discover issues due to poor lights (basking and UV) and other issues that can do with being adjusted or tweeked , cheatsheet : viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050

 

[Garrus]

As for feeding, I advise feeding in a separate cage. Stay away from mealworms, they are impaction nightmares due to their abundant chitin. Dubia roaches- or any kind of feeder roach, some prefer Turkistan Red Runner roaches- are an ideal staple for a young bearded dragon, with crickets being a decent second place. These roaches are easy to keep, and Dubia roaches in particular lack the ability to climb sheer sided plastic and glass enclosures, making keeping them contained a cinch. They are also easier to handle than crickets which jump all over the place, and gut load better (keep your feeders well fed before feeding them to your dragon- anything in them goes into your dragon).

Only feed insects no longer than the width between the eyes. Any larger will block your dragon up and cause an impaction. Even a chance few may cause your dragon some discomfort as it tries to pass them, so if in doubt, don't risk it.

Feed as many insects as your dragon will eat before losing interest in them. If this is a young dragon, that means at least twice a day, and at least one of those feedings will require calcium with D3 applied liberally to the feeder insects. If using roaches, you may need to do this manually, though with crickets you just need to put them in a container with some of the calcium, shake, and serve./

Apologies for giving you the third degree, but it was important to know what your dragon's setup was in order to ensure you missed nothing. Bearded dragons are relatively easy reptiles to keep, but reptiles they are, and their husbandry is more complex than that of birds and mammals.

 

[ironclaw37]

Speaking of impaction, the lady at the pet store said that my tiny beardie could eat super worms and I fed some to him, he ate two and three one of them up. I'm a little worried that he mighT be impacted. What should I do to make sure?

 

[Garrus]

Right, don't trust a word that the store tells you. For now, bath him in warm- NOT hot- water daily. It should help him pass them if he has not already.

By the way, all the above is the dietary regimen for a YOUNG bearded dragon. Once your dragon approaches a year, his needs will change dramatically.

 

[ironclaw37]

I'm replacing my lights with a Zoo Med PowerSun UV Mercury Vapor Lamp 160 Watts light bulb

 

[CooperDragon]

I'm replacing my lights with a Zoo Med PowerSun UV Mercury Vapor Lamp 160 Watts light bulb

That should work well. Based on test results that model should sit 10-14'' above the basking area for optimal UVB exposure.