Recent content by Cuda

The only thing that would worry me is if you haven't had the rescue in the smaller enclosure long enough to know if there are any health problems. It's usually a good idea not to share anything from a new beardie with an established one for at least a few weeks.

You should try to arrange things so that they can't see each other. Maybe cover one side of the enclosure if need be. Stress isn't a good thing.

You should give her a better area to lay the eggs. There are many ways people do it, my personal preference is to use a large plastic bin. I fill it half way with topsoil, sloping it from near the top one one side to near the bottom of the other. It will probably help if you start a hole for her...

I've been using them as a staple feeder for years, for beardies over 16 inches.

Could be, if you're off by a week on your calculations. Appetite does go down before laying, and spike way back up soon afterward.

I wouldn't throw anything out just yet. I've had babies hatch from eggs that look just like your "shriveled" ones.

The shelf life of the calcium itself is actually indefinite. Anything added (D3 maybe) is what expires.

I have gone through 60,000+ feeders (crickets and roaches) per clutch of 32 eggs, just getting them to six weeks. She laid six clutches. Windows calculator says that's 360,000 feeders. You can make more money shopping for new shoes.

If it's just white at the end, that's normal.

If that high side temp is at the basking spot, it's way too low. Try to get it to around 110.

First make sure your basking temps are good since moving to the new tank, then try a warm bath. :)

Low calcium possibly. Some times they will do it for no apparnt reason, too.

Doesn't sound like he's impacted, but it does sound like he's nearly prolapsing. Try getting more moisture into him and see if it helps.

Any plain topsoil will work. Just read the bag to make sure nothing has been added.

I always used plain topsoil. Be careful with potting soil, most of them contain some fertilizer.