Power outage - new baby beardie 😓

[ArtClassBeardie]

Firstly, thank you so much for all your help and information! I check several sources, and my head starts spinning. My little guy seems to be eating really well. He had about seven small Dubia roaches yesterday and some kale, spinach, and little pieces of carrot. He is turning out to be a really great eater. The only thing I'm worried about is that he hasn't pooped in two days. His last poop was on Wednesday. Should I hold off on feeding him? Should I try to give him a little bit of apple? Or is it normal as he's adjusting?

Side note: The students at the high school voted on the name Bowser!

 

[KarrieRee]

Firstly, thank you so much for all your help and information! I check several sources, and my head starts spinning. My little guy seems to be eating really well. He had about seven small Dubia roaches yesterday and some kale, spinach, and little pieces of carrot. He is turning out to be a really great eater. The only thing I'm worried about is that he hasn't pooped in two days. His last poop was on Wednesday. Should I hold off on feeding him? Should I try to give him a little bit of apple? Or is it normal as he's adjusting?

Side note: The students at the high school voted on the name Bowser!

Bowser will eventually go to the bathroom if his surface basking temps are on par - 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer--- PLEASE NO more spinach -- I am posting a website for nutrition ignore the kale info it is a great staple Nutrition Content -- do not hold off on feeding him -- you can always feed plain canned pumpkin or unsweetened applesauce to make him go to the bathroom but I am thinking it may be stress and the off temps for a while that is slowing him down -

 

[magicmagni]

Eating and pooping are good signs. Good job. They don't have access to fruits in wild nor is their body really suited for the sugars. I would stay away from fruits except for the rare treat if you must. Thats great he is eating his veg! Spinach is good as its a great source of iodine, but it also is high in oxilates which bind calcium and can cause deficiency so not too much. Kale, mustard greens, Collards, rocket aka arugula.. all good staples. I feed mine some spinach too just in moderation. Like a few times a month mixed in with other greens is ok.

 

[magicmagni]

Sorry I missed that he wasn't pooping. Yes as advised above check that basking surface temp. Wait at least 3 hours after lights are on to get an accurate reading. I highly recommend an infrared thermometer for this.. if you don't have one it's a great investment.

Amazon.com

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Also observe your animal. If he's in his basking spot all day and practically never moves he could be too cold and trying too hard to warm up. Conversely, if he's never in it and avoiding it..probably too hot. Naturally they will bask two times during the day.. once in morning for few hours to warm up, then again in later afternoon to warm up again before the sun goes down and the cool night arrives.l, but nothing set in stone.. each individual will vary to a degree.

I really like this guide that you might find helpful. He has a lot of updated information peer reviewed from top sources. Best of luck.. but I'm sure your going to be just fine

 

[AHBD]

Bowser is a cute name ! Offering a bit of pumpkin can help as Karrie mentioned and also dripping water slowly on his snout to give him a drink.

The above video has been posted twice in this thread now for some reason as well as the huge list of products, I'm not sure why . If you've watched the video I'd advise you to disregard the part about feeding 5 insects a day to a baby and skipping insects every other day for a 30 gram baby . There's some good info there but other parts are too extreme.

 

[magicmagni]

Sorry just trying to help. I was multitasking didn't mean to post twice.
Best reguards.

 

[AHBD]

That's O.K, the part about high humidity being fine was helpful as well. Humidity levels up to 70 % are common at certain times of day and as long as the tank is not WET and cold, a spike in humidity is fine. I enjoyed your enclosure thread as well, nice looking bio active set up !

 

[ArtClassBeardie]

I think the basking temp is too hot. He's been back and forth to the basking spot, but the digital probe thermometer is reading 120! I bought a 50-watt bulb and a hanger for the lamp, so I will be able to raise the lamp a bit to get the basking spot the right temperature. I will be moving him to my studio room tomorrow as I think it is too warm and dry by the woodstove. I have 50, 75, and 100-watt bulbs, so I'll figure out which is best for the new spot. It's definitely chillier down there. I also have a 100 watt ceramic bulb for nighttime.
Today, he's eaten crickets, Dubia roaches, kale, carrots, and spinach. (I won't give him any more spinach, or maybe every once in a while.)
Still no poop today, but he did drink some water that I put on his basking log to help raise the humidity.
Sorry, I feel like I rambled a bit. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot everyone! I'll feel better once he poops!

 

[magicmagni]

Yeah that is hot. This illustrates the need for a place for them to get away from the heat. If the cool side isn't too hot like in the 70's that gives a nice margin of safety. I have so many different bulbs myself now.. Trial and error. If he is eating his veg that is a great source of water. He'll poop soon. Look at the urates when he does.. If they are a nice bright white that is a good sign of hydration.. if yellow this is sign of dehydration.

A common misconception about bearded dragon husbandry is that humidity should be as low as possible, and any instances of relatively high humidity put the dragon in immediate danger of illness. People who perpetuate this myth forget that Central Australia is not bone dry, and it does rain, and humidity does rise occasionally. It’s also important to note that the average human home significantly drier than outdoors, and sometimes too dry, especially if you live in an area with a naturally dry climate. (Fun fact: the ideal indoor humidity for humans is 40-45%.) The ambient humidity in your bearded dragon’s enclosure should average between 30-60%.- Credit Reptifiles

I used to use a woodstove living in a small rural moutain town for many years and I recall it was very drying to the air. A tip and old timer showed me was to put a tea kettle ontop of it and let the water steam so to humidify the air. Probably good for you and your pets

BTW If your room temps are not getting below 55 to 60 degrees at night you may not even need the CHE.. I don't like them myself because they emit the least effective form of heat- Infrared C- which dries the air and fights the natural tendency of humidity to rise at nigth (as it should). It is lightless form of heat which is the best we have at night so use if you must.

I like the idea of raising the light a bit to control the heat. You can dim it too ,but if you dim too much-- like more than 20% or so.. you start loosing beneficial Infrared A and better off bumping it down to a lower wattage bulb or increasing the basking distance to bulb. Good luck. Don't worry it will work out.

 

[AHBD]

I think the basking temp is too hot. He's been back and forth to the basking spot, but the digital probe thermometer is reading 120! I bought a 50-watt bulb and a hanger for the lamp, so I will be able to raise the lamp a bit to get the basking spot the right temperature. I will be moving him to my studio room tomorrow as I think it is too warm and dry by the woodstove. I have 50, 75, and 100-watt bulbs, so I'll figure out which is best for the new spot. It's definitely chillier down there. I also have a 100 watt ceramic bulb for nighttime.
Today, he's eaten crickets, Dubia roaches, kale, carrots, and spinach. (I won't give him any more spinach, or maybe every once in a while.)
Still no poop today, but he did drink some water that I put on his basking log to help raise the humidity.
Sorry, I feel like I rambled a bit. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot everyone! I'll feel better once he poops!

That's way too hot, be sure to move it away from the stove. No CHE unless it goes below 65 at night so try to be sure of what the temps. are in his tank when the lights are off.
Drinking water is good, it's really important especially if he/she was overheated. Water will help with pooing as much or more as veg.

Magicmagni try not to post those care guides on every comment. It's distracting from what's going on.

 

[ArtClassBeardie]

I’ve moved Bowser again, whew! Poor little guy. We decided to put him in our bedroom. It’s upstairs and stays a pretty even 70 - 75 degrees or so. And we can shut the door to keep the cats away, they are a little too intrigued with Bowser.
He was a little tweaked out by the move, but he seems to be chilling out now.
I have the 75watt bulb in a dimmable hood now, up on the stand. So I’m waiting to see what temp it gets up to as it is now.
Question: how long should I wait after turning the lights on to feed him?
Happy Christmas Eve to everyone that celebrates and happy holidays to all!

 

[AHBD]

Waiting an hour should be fine, some will eat sooner than that but as a rule of thumb it's good for them to warm up before they eat.
Set up looks pretty good, what type of uvb do you have ? I don't see the long tube which would ideally be a Reptisun 10.0 t5 or Arcadia D3 12-14 %.

 

[ArtClassBeardie]

I have a crappy uvb bulb for now, my big enclosure has an Arcadia Reptile Pro T5 UVB D3+ 14% 24watt but I thought it was too big for the 20 gallon tank. Would the Reptisun T5 HO work on top of the mesh?

 

[AHBD]

Definitely, switch right away.

 

[KarrieRee]

I have a crappy uvb bulb for now, my big enclosure has an Arcadia Reptile Pro T5 UVB D3+ 14% 24watt but I thought it was too big for the 20 gallon tank. Would the Reptisun T5 HO work on top of the mesh?

Yes have it unobstructed take your screen off and have the distance 13 inches directly above him - if he has to sit on the floor under it that is ok and if you need to place it width wise across the tank that is fine too -- just so he can get directly under it