Good cage set up for a baby beardie?

[Beardieonanadventure]

Thanks!

 

[AHBD]

Yes, that's a good set up. The only thing I'd change is to take the large hide out. New babies can get stressed + spend too much time under there which can have a negative impact on health. It also makes it easier for him to catch crickets without the extra clutter. The large basking log is big enough to provide lots of climbing area as well as a few hiding places if he wants.

 

[Beardieonanadventure]

Yes, that's a good set up. The only thing I'd change is to take the large hide out. New babies can get stressed + spend too much time under there which can have a negative impact on health. It also makes it easier for him to catch crickets without the extra clutter. The large basking log is big enough to provide lots of climbing area as well as a few hiding places if he wants.

I did see a smaller little half log at the pet store, do you suggest switching it with that or removing it completely? When I feed him I always take everything out of his cage so they're easier to find. Thanks for the help!

 

[aepstein]

Yes, that's a good set up. The only thing I'd change is to take the large hide out. New babies can get stressed + spend too much time under there which can have a negative impact on health. It also makes it easier for him to catch crickets without the extra clutter. The large basking log is big enough to provide lots of climbing area as well as a few hiding places if he wants.

I did see a smaller little half log at the pet store, do you suggest switching it with that or removing it completely? When I feed him I always take everything out of his cage so they're easier to find. Thanks for the help!

Speaking from personal experience, he might end up hiding under the log the majority of the day (my little guy did, and still does sometimes). You want them to get the proper UV rays, so keeping them out and about can really benefit their health.

However, if you feel he really needs the log, you can always put it in there around lights out.... I put a hide in the tank right before lights out for my little guy to burrow and get snug in...I usually take it out in the morning after lights go on, and it stays out of the tank until evening.

 

[kingofnobbys]

A smaller rearing enclosure with minimum cutter and plenty of opportunities to explore and climb, a couple places to bask, a very shallow water dish (my hatchies didn't drink from them very often but frequently sat in the water when they got too hot and also pooed in the water too (little devils hated a stinky enclosure even when little, poo in the water and you don't smell the offensive object no more --- cleaver little guys).

I essentially had a half log (one of the ones with a window hole , and 3 ways in. Not sure if your log is bigger than my logs are (my beardies still use the same logs though it's a now a tight fit for them and very cosy when a 3 year old beardie about 650g is under his or her log).
My hides look like http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GLG-119-Resin-Hide-Log-29cm-Cichlid-Fish-Reptile-Lizard-Snake-Spider-Hatchling-/171235048534 .

I kept my beardies as hatchies and juveniles in 100L tubs. Upgrading them to 4'x2'x1.5'H home made enclosures at about 8 months old. I was told by the lady who bred my 2 that a small unclutter simple enclosure was best while little.
I was also advised to use either loosely laid tiles (with a rough surface) or absorbant paper towels as bedding , sand is used commonly and advocated by many people but you risk impaction in hatchies and juvenile beardies with sand.

Essentially the only changes I'd make are :
1) smaller half log (maybe) , keep the one you have , you'll find it handy for later.
2) more lighting in the enclosure (make it as bright - daylike - as you can) , it'll help the little guy find his insects and encourage him to remain active
3) lights (MVB , CFB and or others) all on a timer , I have a cycle where the lights come on at about 6am and turn off a 9:30pm
4) I'd add a secondary heat source in the form of a basic heatpad (7W is more than adequate) and I'd sandwich this heat pad between 2 layers of ceramic tiles , and attach the temperature probe for a basic thermostat to the warmest area of the heated tiles , set the thermostat to 37oC and place the warmed tiles under your 1/2 log, I'd run the heatpad 24/7. This will provide a nice warm refuge that the beardie can retire to for naps and to sleep at night and will help prevent it from going into brumation in it's first year , giving him a very good head start.
5) I added some long twigs to lay on the floor , if they have sharp ends all the better, your hatchie will appreciate the sharp edges while shedding.
6) do you have food dish in the enclosure - I'd add one and put fresh salad and veg and softened juvenile beardie pellets in each morning (first thing) no items of food bigger than the distance between his eyes !!! - I grated my carrot, sweet potato, and food processed my raw green peas and green beans and roughly shredded my puk choi greens.

A tip : make up the greens and veg and pellets mix in bulk , and freeze in plastic icecube makers , you can then pop out a food cube every couple of days and thaw it out as needed - very handy .
If you are putting the insects in the enclosure with the beardie, leave the veg and greens and pellets mix in overnight - good idea anyway as my beardies as hatchies and juveniles often graised overnight and it'll give something other than the beardie for the insects to nibble on.

I'd suggest feeding your hatchie it's prey insects in a large tub, they can't get lost in the clutter this way and he'll find and catch them lot easier. Nor will you have the problem of insects hiding and coming out at night to disturb his sleep or bite him.