No because the dr we saw last: was not her usual dr and she (in my opinion) had no clue what she was talking about and I truly didn’t trust her to be responsible for my girl. Not to mention the sedation and anesthesia and putting her to sleep, made me extremely uncomfortable. Why couldn’t they just do a swab test? Or examine her through a microscope instead of having to do a biopsy? Wouldn’t it be the same thing?
I just put Monistat 3 on her last night for the first time and the super stuck skin on her belly is peeling itself off already! So that’s a great thing, however, the rest of her skin looks terrible. She had water in her poop that shot out with force the other day but the poop was solid and the urates too. I noticed a really dark yellow color though. She’s literally been shedding non stop for months, and it’s just staying attached unless I give her baths and creams and stuff. Idk what the heck is going on. Her breathing has been concerning also. But EVERYTIME I take her to the vet, they say she’s perfectly fine. So idk what else to do.
Also, if I hold her at all and anywhere her body touches on my skin: I get a crusty SUPER ITCHY rash. If I don’t touch her: my rash calms down, but she climbed up my face a couple of days ago and now I have a rash everywhere in the area. My fingers are yellow and crusty when I touch her and my drs can’t figure out what it is….any ideas?
Are you bathing her in anything other than plain water? What kind of staple are you feeding? What kind of substrate is she on? We need to start ruling these things out to find out what your allergic to? The humidity in the tank effects the shedding-- what is the humidity and how are you getting it? NO analogs they are off - you want a digital probe hygrometer placed on the back center wall of the tank
what could it be?The constant shedding thing is interesting- I am going to recommend you get another UVB in the tank -- a long tube fixture the MVB's are not a good source for UVB--- in fact the rays get weaker over time and eventually are gone but the heat is still there - this could be a good reason your dragon is not eating anything - they will not eat w/ out proper UVB --- please get one of the following 24" for a 40 + gallon tankBetadine and repti safe in her baths, sometimes colloidal silver. I’ve been using potty pads as her substrate for a while now so that I can change them out frequently throughout the day (she likes to splash her water dish everywhere) her lighting is the Mega Ray 160 and I can’t remember yhe brand of her basking bulb but it’s 120 w. Humidity stays below 23% always, but usually is around 8%, which is low especially because she has a water dish always. I have 2 temp/analogs one in each side and also have a digital probe hygrometer but not mounted. I didn’t know it stayed in the tank, I thought it was to just check as needed. I’ll install it today. As far as her staples lately: wax worms (only thing she would eat) at one point. I also give her blue horned worms, crickets (rarely) super worms (which she refuses to eat now) and dubias (sometimes I waste my money, sometimes she will eat them) I’ve tried bsfl (she hates them) and silkworms she refuses. Greens include collard, mustard ,turnip. Arugula, kale, dandelion. Fruits: Everything she’s allowed to have and occasionally bananas and watermelon. HOWEVER: she WILL NOT eat any of the above at all anymore. No matter the combination/size/shape etc. I’ve wasted so much money and continue to do so and she REFUSES fruits and veggies if all kinds. The only 2 things she will show interest in (sometimes) is banana and watermelon (which I know is a rare treat). I have included supplements in her diet and if I blend everything into a smoothie and follow her around with a syringe for hours I can usually get her to eat some but it got ridiculous and was told by the vet that’s not normal to have to do that and they told me to stop and force her to eat fruits and veggies on her own (which never happened). I’ve tried everything under the sun but she’s stubborn. She does however: drink a ton of water from her dish. Every single day (several times actually) and I add supplements to that sometimes (drops made for there water with b vitamins n stuff). I’ve had her for almost 3 years and this skin thing has consistently been an issue for a year now and it’s at the point now that she doesn’t stop shedding at all. She sheds and starts re shedding the same spots almost immediately after. It’s insanity. My whole life everyday is consumed with trying to help her feel better, feeding her, bathing her, cleaning her house thoroughly (steam cleaning and scrubbing and baking) and I’ve come to the realization that it’s not getting any better. In fact: it’s getting worse I think. 7 different reptile specialists all together and a couple of them we had repeat visits…..no answers. I’m just at a complete loss. I’m begging for someone to help at this point
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I just took that exact uvb tube light fixture out because I was told it was too much uvb and could be causing uvb poisoning….I just opened the brand new mvb on weds, I’ve been replacing her bulbs around every 4-6 months. Her shed isn’t coming off properly at all, it starts to come off and then retains back to her body. I’ve been scared to raise the humidity in her house because of the risk of uri, so I feel like it’s as catch 22. She starts breathing really weird when I put her in the sink to soak so idk what that’s about either.The constant shedding thing is interesting- I am going to recommend you get another UVB in the tank -- a long tube fixture the MVB's are not a good source for UVB--- in fact the rays get weaker over time and eventually are gone but the heat is still there - this could be a good reason your dragon is not eating anything - they will not eat w/ out proper UVB --- please get one of the following 24" for a 40 + gallon tank
this comes w/ a 5.0 bulb you will need to change the bulb to this 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 I will post the link
Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO High Output Terrarium Hood
Zoo Med ReptiSun HO T5 Terrarium Hoods are designed to provide your pet reptiles with the UVB and UVA they need in an efficient, long-lasting lamp. High Output (HO) T5 fluorescent lamps provide UVB penetration at greater distances, making these hoods an ideal choice for taller terrarium tanks...or this one it can be found at Pet Smart please get the 24 watt 12 % bulbZoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5 HO High Output Fluorescent Bulb
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Arcadia Reptile ProT5 UV-B Kit | reptile Light Fixtures | PetSmart
or this one you will need to change the bulb out to the one I posted above
you want the 2 ft or 24" fixture
the placement and distance is going to be determined by your screen please post back on here when you get it ----- your dragon cannot absorb/ synthesize the calcium hes ingesting w/ out proper UVB --
as far as the skin rash goes I would get into a dermatoligist and maybe have a skin test done to see exactly what your allergic to - are you keeping the dubias in the same room as you? Or all the dragons things in a separate room? I know at one time we had someone allergic to the dubia frass and she was breaking out -
with the humidity as low as it is I am surprised shes not having issues w/ the shed coming off -- I was told humidity is important for shed --- at 8% that is really low - and having the water dish in there is not helping w/ humidity at least shes drinking it from it - I was told water dishes should be under the hot heat to get the humidity up
A dragon will move away from the UVB if they have had enough and they also will hide from it if they cant get out of it -- properly placed and distanced UVB your dragon will sit under it for as long as he needs -- MVB's are good for heat but not so much UVB --- I recommend you restore the UVB you took out -- have you posted a pic of her? If not please do--- I think there might be some other stuff that is recommended for stuck shed aloe vera I think is also recommended -- I can have AHBD take a look at the pic when you post it and have her chime in here -- I would stop the betadine that could be causing the heavy breathing - but I am not 100% sure -- its best to be cautious tho
New here, possibly too old for this