Food poisoning

[Freeie]

If i want to take mine out for a while i give them baths. Bathing promotes them to go poo. So that way its safe to let them run around. Yep Luke warm water up to their arm pits. Change the water if they poo refill intill the 20 min soaking is up.

 

[gulfbrzdawn]

I agree with Christy... the frequent bathing and adding water to the veggies will help keep your beardie hydrated. If she indeed got a stomach ache from the carrots, the sooner they are flushed out of her system the better.
Like Christy also mentioned, with your beardie being an adult... the amount of crickets you are feeding are adequate. Generally adults should have 30-50 live feeders a week. With crickets being at the higher end of that number, due to not having as much fat as say worms. An adult diet consists of 80% veggies and 20% protein/feeders.
I do want to touch base on the subject of your lighting, if that's okay. You mentioned using a stick-on thermometer. I have not been on your other threads to know if this has been suggested, but you can pick up a great digital thermometer with a wire and probe at Walmart for around $12. It is the AcuRite thermometer. The temps in your beardies enclosure play a vital role in their health and well being. If your temps are too warm, your beardie can become dehydrated and have symptoms such as you described. It is very important to monitor the temps with an accurate thermometer.
Let us know how your beardie is feeling today.
Oh and just in case you don't already have this great list of foods to feed your beardie.. here ya go! :wink: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html

 

[Goonie]

Please refrain from any and all name calling. There is no need (nor tolerance) for that here.
If you have an issue with a member's attitude, please discuss it in private via PM or other means.

 

[Joshish]

Really 30-50 a week for grownups? ive been told 30-50 every other day. Depending on which one is right my beardie can be ok or sick. Shes eaten 40 crix 2 days ago. and yesterday i bought another 30 pack but she refused to eat any. The crickets are dying fast idk why please tell me why she wont eat or which one is correct.

 

[gulfbrzdawn]

Yes, 30-50 feeders a week is sufficient for an adult beardie. This also depends on what type of feeders you are offering. Because you are feeding crickets, you need to be at the higher end, like 50 a week. Crickets are more shell than they are meat, where as worms are fattier and have more protein. Your beardie may or could eat more than the 50 a week, but then you have to worry about overfeeding and weight issues. It is not hard for a beardie to become overweight, which could lead to health problems.
When beardies are young, especially in the first year, they need plenty of protein for proper growth. This is why it is recommended to feed them so often and so much. After they have reached adulthood(around 18 mos) they need to be cut back. As they get older, they tend to get lazier and their metabolisms slow down. This is when they can start packing on the grams.
If your beardie ate 40 crickets in one sitting, she may not eat for a day or two, because she has had enough.
What size crickets are you feeding her?

Also did you see where I mentioned in my other post about your thermometer?
Are you able to get a digital thermometer w/ probe or a temp gun?

 

[Joshish]

Yes, 30-50 feeders a week is sufficient for an adult beardie. This also depends on what type of feeders you are offering. Because you are feeding crickets, you need to be at the higher end, like 50 a week. Crickets are more shell than they are meat, where as worms are fattier and have more protein. Your beardie may or could eat more than the 50 a week, but then you have to worry about overfeeding and weight issues. It is not hard for a beardie to become overweight, which could lead to health problems.
When beardies are young, especially in the first year, they need plenty of protein for proper growth. This is why it is recommended to feed them so often and so much. After they have reached adulthood(around 18 mos) they need to be cut back. As they get older, they tend to get lazier and their metabolisms slow down. This is when they caI n start packing on the grams.
If your beardie ate 40 crickets in one sitting, she may not eat for a day or two, because she has had enough.
What size crickets are you feeding her?

Also did you see where I mentioned in my other post about your thermometer?
Are you able to get a digital thermometer w/ probe or a temp gun?

I usually give her Large or medium size crix. I think my beardie is overweight but i think shes alright. Shes also having sleeping issues. You said as they get older they get lazier shes been sleeping around 2-4pm and only goes up when i wake her up . Shes not really sleeping shes just under her basking tree in the sleeping position with her eyes open but when i interact with her she wakes up. Im still using the under heater pad and its under the tree. Everytime i wake her up she seems to be venting what could that mean? Im unable to get digital or temp gun. youve told me wal mart but walmart is just too far away.

 

[gulfbrzdawn]

Yes, as beardies get older they do tend to get lazier and do alot of laying around or basking. On the other hand though as I said before, if the temps are not correct, this will also cause them to sleep or hide.
You said your beardie is venting. I assume you mean her mouth is open, right? This is gaping and is perfectly normal as they do this to thermoregulate. If your beardie is doing it quite a bit, then she may be overheating. This is why your temps are so important. An overheated beardie can lead to dehydration. This is not good.
You said walmart is too far. Do you have a Lowes near you? They also carry the AcuRite thermometers. If not, maybe you could order one online. You could always get an inexpensive infrared temperature gun. You can find these under $20. They sell them at auto stores or online. I got mine at Freight Harbor, do you have one of these near you?
You mentioned an undertank heater. I would recommend you remove that. They can lead to serious burns if beardies lay on them too long.
Maybe you could tell me a little about your set up and I could help you with that until you can get a decent thermometer.
What size is your beardies enclosure?
Does it have vents or openings?
I think you mentioned an MVB... what watt is that and how close can your beardie get to it?
Do you have an extra bulb in the enclosure? If so, what watt is it?
What temps are you getting with the stick on thermometer?

 

[Joshish]

Maybe you could tell me a little about your set up and I could help you with that until you can get a decent thermometer.
What size is your beardies enclosure?
Does it have vents or openings?
I think you mentioned an MVB... what watt is that and how close can your beardie get to it?
Do you have an extra bulb in the enclosure? If so, what watt is it?
What temps are you getting with the stick on thermometer?

Well to start it off im not comfortable taking the under heater we`ve spent alot of money on it and she seems to like it. The underheater is under her basking tree. She usually sleeps under that tree sometimes. Everytime after she sleeps their when she wakes up she vents for about 1min. Now i know you didnt ask this question but im annoyed so ill answer the most asked question. No i cannot use Repti sun. My cage used to be used for fish therefor its manufactered diffrently. Theirs 2 holes to put lights. Kinda like this --__--__-- if i apply reptisun it will cover the holes ---------- then i will not be able to give her heat. But its MVB it will look like this ------__-- and it already adds UVB + HEAT so ive decided to use that. My beardies enclosure is 55gal but its manufactured diffrently its a little thinner but also a little longer. 2 opening on the top. 100w and if she stands on her basking tree her head could be 6-8 inches away from the top. and her body could be about 12inches away. From the bottom of her cage its about 16inches. Stick on its usually 95-100.

 

[Freeie]

UTH can cause bad burns. You might of paid alot of money for it but its worthless to use for a bearded dragon. They can get burnt very badly from them. Stick on therms can be 20 deg - or 20 deg + what they say. They are also useless. If you are using a 55 gal fish tank you can still use a reptisun 10 you stick it down the whole and mount it inside the tank. It will not block the hole.

Something like this. Just tape it up there.

 

[ClydesGirl]

Freeie, don't bother. We have given him instructions multiple times in this thread and another about how to mount a ReptiSun inside the tank and he insists it's not possible, but has yet to post pictures that make it clear why that's the case.

 

[gulfbrzdawn]

I am sure you spent alot of money on the UTH, but as Christy mentioned, they are very dangerous to beardies. Beardies will lay on the heat pads and do not know any better then to move if it gets too hot, which in turn can result in a very nasty burn. You said your beardie lays on the heat pad and when she awakes she gapes for 1 minute. That alone should tell you she is overheating from the heat pad.
I did not ask about your uvb, because I realize it is a sore spot with you and is not worth the argument. You have already been told that the mvb's, such as the Powersun, have caused health issues. So if you are set on using the Powersun, please keep a close eye on your beardie.
I am not quite clear on the distance of your mvb from your beardie. MVB's are quite powerful, so your beardie needs to be no closer than 12" minimum from the bulb. Actually, with the problems those bulbs are having I would say a 15" distance would be even safer. That distance is from the bulb to your beardie(not the basking spot itself).
I will only say this part one more time. PLEASE get a decent thermometer. You need either a digital therm. w/wire and probe or a temp gun. If you do not... your beardie will suffer the consequences, which is overheating and becoming dehydrated... which can make for a very sick beardie.
No one here wants to challenge you or argue with you. If this post sounds harsh in any way, that is not my intention. My only intention is to help you and your beardie. We all have a passion for beardies here and only want what's best for them.
We are trying to help you, so that your beardie can live a long and healthy life.
Let us know how your beardie is doing.

 

[Joshish]

UTH can cause bad burns. You might of paid alot of money for it but its worthless to use for a bearded dragon. They can get burnt very badly from them. Stick on therms can be 20 deg - or 20 deg + what they say. They are also useless. If you are using a 55 gal fish tank you can still use a reptisun 10 you stick it down the whole and mount it inside the tank. It will not block the hole.

Something like this. Just tape it up there.

MMMMHH now i see what you guys mean about the UVB light. Thats gonno cause 2 problems. 1 my only holder for the UVB REPTI SUN is way too heavy and way to big. It will almost block off the whole side making it difficult for her cage. Also its very heavy and even duct tape will take a large amount that we are unable to waste. Besides i thought were talking about Food poisoning. I dont see anything wrong with MVB it my choice and i stick by it. Alot of people use MVB their beardies are fine.yeah MVB is not the best but it works without going into too many problems.

 

[tonid]

I admire the patience and love of beardies that everyone has shown on Joshish's many threads of this forum. I fear you are fighting a losing battle folks

 

[Sapphire]

Joshish, how is your dragon doing now? Do you think she is still suffering from food poisoning?

 

[Freeie]

Only reason i post here is because of the beardie. Best wishes to you.