It's my understanding that brumation is sort of like "hibernation lite", and the most important thing is to make sure that they don't go to sleep for a long period of time with food in their stomach, so if they stop eating and start hiding away from their heat source and sleeping a lot, you need to at least try to keep them warm enough to finish digesting until they've pooped out their last meal, then keep an eye on them and make sure they're not losing weight and that they stay
hydrated and have the option to warm up and start eating again when they want to. They all seem to be different -- some sleep for several months, some stay active all year, and everything in between.
We're lucky that our beardie doesn't seem to get really serious about brumation, because with the adenovirus I'd be worried that he's not quite healthy enough for it anyway. I keep his lights on the same schedule year round, but there's a huge seasonal variation in what he sees coming in the window here in Anchorage. Right now, we're losing over 5 1/2 minutes of daylight per day -- time to pay the piper for all the "midnight sun" in the summer.
I'm still using plain old cheap incandescent white house lights and dimmer switches for heat, alongside the T5 HO for UV. It seems to work fine, but you may not be able to get those anymore. I stocked up on them a few years ago just before they stopped manufacturing them, and I probably have enough to last the reptiles for the rest of their lives. We get our dimmers at a place called "Frigid North" -- a local business something like what Radio Shack used to be, but I've never been able to find anything similar anywhere else, so that probably won't be much help. There ought to be better stuff out there than what I'm currently using since there's a demand for it.
As long as you've got reasonably bright white light (besides UV) and a way to get the temperatures where they need to be, you should be ok, but there seem to be all kinds of different ways to get there.