Beardie not eating well

[Allysonm22]

Hey yall
So i bought a bearded dragon in july. He was around 7 in and had a lot of health problems. Tail rot due to a nip and poor eating habits as well as a strange skin condition.

I treated him with betadine and antifungals and the skin issues went away with shedding and have not returned.

However 3 months later he is very skinny and not eating good at all. He eats here and there in small amounts and still passes small amounts of feces and urate daily.

He began to have tremors and shakes and i got him a vet appointment. However in the meantime i adjusted some tank decor and lighting and have not noticed anymore shaking.

His appetite however is still relatively non existent. With his vet appointment on the 29th he is about 5 mo. Old and around 8 1/2 in. What tests should i ask the vet to run and how to i get him to eat more? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

#noteating #5months #sickbeardie

 

[Groggyfroggie]

Hi, sorry your little one has to go thru so much! Definitely do a fecal test, but NOT an enema. Bring in fecal sample w/in 24 hrs.

Can you go over your tank setup and what you changed after he started shaking? Post pics so we can better eliminate possible causes Also what’s his diet? Does he get any supplements?

 

[Allysonm22]

Hi, sorry your little one has to go thru so much! Definitely do a fecal test, but NOT an enema. Bring in fecal sample w/in 24 hrs.

Can you go over your tank setup and what you changed after he started shaking? Post pics so we can better eliminate possible causes Also what’s his diet? Does he get any supplements?

I changed the positioning of his uvb, got a better climbing log to get him closer to his light, added carpet and a small section of sand. I stopped using a reptile odor eliminator cleaner as often and actually stopped using his calcium and vitamin supplement on his food as he seemed to not eat any food if it was dusted. That stopped his tremors for about a week now but not sure what it was that did. I add supplements and electrolytes to his bath water twice a week to try to get some in him still.

He has a uvb tube light that spans most of his cage except a section on the cooler side. He has a small under tank heater in the center (gets pretty cold and humid where im at so its on all the time). He has a 100 watt heat lamp (just got the pictured one today because i heard they are better) and another 60 watt heat lamp. I run a dehumidfier near him most of the day as well. His lights are on from around 8 am to 830 pm most days and off at night except the under tank heat pad.

His diet consists of dubia roaches, superworms, meal worms, crickets, flukers pellet mix with the occasional wax worms and horn worms

For greens his staples are dandelion greens amd collard greens and mustard greens. I try to add some bell pepper, carrots, butternut squash, celery, broccoli, red cabbage, and occasionally ill throw in some iceberg or romaine as he likes it as well just to mix things up. Occasional fruits include blueberries, raspberries, grapes and strawberries

Which is the selection offered not that he eats much of it unfortunately

 

[Allysonm22]

Hi, sorry your little one has to go thru so much! Definitely do a fecal test, but NOT an enema. Bring in fecal sample w/in 24 hrs.

Can you go over your tank setup and what you changed after he started shaking? Post pics so we can better eliminate possible causes Also what’s his diet? Does he get any supplements?

He is still in a 20 gal which isnt ideal but since he has never seemed quite well i thought it might be better to keep the smaller one clean and maintained before placing in another cage where he might become stressed and stop eating completely. After the vet its on my list of next things to try as maybe he needs more space to want to eat more?

 

[Groggyfroggie]

I see a probe thermometer, can you take the temperature on the basking spot and also the cold side? I agree for his size and condition it’s not vital to move in a bigger tank. But with small tanks you wanna make sure the temperature is right and that there’s a temperature gradient from hot to cold.

His tremors most likely have something to do with calcium deficiency. I’m not very familiar with the uvb brand, they’re kind of reputable but not the one recommended on this forum. I’d make sure he’s close to the uvb bulb. If he doesn’t eat anything dusted, try a liquid calcium, one of our mods has it on her website just search “liquid calcium” on the forum. It’s vital that he gets efficient uvb lighting AND calcium supplements. For now take him outside for some natural sun if outside temperature isn’t cold. Like not below 85F.

Under tank heater isn’t ideal for beardies, can cause burns. You can use a ceramic heat emitter if temperature drops too low at night. Also take out the sand, beardies lick everything and it’s a huge risk for impaction. You don’t want that.

I’m gonna flag @KarrieRee she can offer great help with temperature and uvb placement.

 

[Groggyfroggie]

With his diet avoid mealworms and super worms for now. Best to stick with dubia roaches and occasional wax worm because they’re more filling. Get some black soldier fly larvae and use them as a staple, they’re rich in calcium. DONT feed him pellets!

 

[Drache613]

Hello,

Sorry your dragon is having some trouble right now.
How far away is the Powersun MVB from him? It is a 100watt bulb, correct & are you using
another basking light in combination with the Powersun?
Please let us know what the temperatures are in his tank. Getting a fecal is a good idea because
a high count of coccidia or worms can greatly affect his appetite. You could try using some bee
pollen for help with his appetite right now.

Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie

 

[KarrieRee]

Please get a different UVB bulb - either a Reptisun or a Arcadia 12% bulb- it should fit your fixture - the UVB can sit on top of the tank as your screen is a wide hole type but please get a piece of basking decor directly under it 8-10 inches --- also please NO red cabbage -- celery or broccoli--- he needs greens like mustard collard turnip and kale - those are main staple feeders - if hes a baby NO meal worms - crickets dubias BSFL and silk worms are a good staple feeders - supers are ok every other day 1-3 wax sparingly they are high in fat and too many can cause liver issues

 

[Allysonm22]

He has a piece od basking decor that gets him within six inches. Arcadia is a better brand for sure but shouldnt span the length of the entire cage from my research which is why he has a shady spot on his cool side for his preference. His staples are mustard and collard and dandelion. He does get offered wax worms every few days and mealworms every once in a while. I know there is a quite a debate on that with some feeding mealworms all the time and others waiting until full grown. Ill try some of the BSFL and butterworms and more hornworms to see if those entice him to eat more than what he is. Hopefully the vet will run the appropriate panels for him

 

[KarrieRee]

He has a piece od basking decor that gets him within six inches. Arcadia is a better brand for sure but shouldnt span the length of the entire cage from my research which is why he has a shady spot on his cool side for his preference. His staples are mustard and collard and dandelion. He does get offered wax worms every few days and mealworms every once in a while. I know there is a quite a debate on that with some feeding mealworms all the time and others waiting until full grown. Ill try some of the BSFL and butterworms and more hornworms to see if those entice him to eat more than what he is. Hopefully the vet will run the appropriate panels for him

Are you using a long tube fixture? I am confused--- if your using a Arcadia T 5 bulb it should be 12-15 inches directly over the basking decor INSIDE the tank - if you have it on top of a screen the screen MUST be a wide whole type and 8-10 inches --- meal worms will cause impaction in babies --- have had two of them on this forum in the last week w/ being fed and getting impacted and many in the past --- its best to stay away from them till they are older --- wax worms are fatty and I would feed sparingly --- super worms are okay along w/ horn worms -- yes you dont want a UVB covering the whole tank that is why I recommend 1/2 the tank -- when going to the vet take a fecal w/ you --- please NO enemas --

Beware of vets giving enemas to your dragon | Beardie ER

Just a warning about this because there are at times very bad reactions afterwards including beardie dying within a day to a week . Some vets give an enema when a dragon is going in to brumation and not pooing during this time, not recognizing that beardies rarely poo during their " sleepy "...

www.beardeddragon.org

 

[KarrieRee]

Are you using a long tube fixture? I am confused--- if your using a Arcadia T 5 bulb it should be 12-15 inches directly over the basking decor INSIDE the tank - if you have it on top of a screen the screen MUST be a wide whole type and 8-10 inches --- meal worms will cause impaction in babies --- have had two of them on this forum in the last week w/ being fed and getting impacted and many in the past --- its best to stay away from them till they are older --- wax worms are fatty and I would feed sparingly --- super worms are okay along w/ horn worms -- yes you dont want a UVB covering the whole tank that is why I recommend 1/2 the tank -- when going to the vet take a fecal w/ you --- please NO enemas --

Beware of vets giving enemas to your dragon | Beardie ER

Just a warning about this because there are at times very bad reactions afterwards including beardie dying within a day to a week . Some vets give an enema when a dragon is going in to brumation and not pooing during this time, not recognizing that beardies rarely poo during their " sleepy "...

www.beardeddragon.org

If you dont have another UVB in the tank this could be a good reason why hes not eating well - dragon will not eat w/ improper lighting and surface basking temps

 

[Allysonm22]

Hello,

Sorry your dragon is having some trouble right now.
How far away is the Powersun MVB from him? It is a 100watt bulb, correct & are you using
another basking light in combination with the Powersun?
Please let us know what the temperatures are in his tank. Getting a fecal is a good idea because
a high count of coccidia or worms can greatly affect his appetite. You could try using some bee
pollen for help with his appetite right now.

Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie

Are you using a long tube fixture? I am confused--- if your using a Arcadia T 5 bulb it should be 12-15 inches directly over the basking decor INSIDE the tank - if you have it on top of a screen the screen MUST be a wide whole type and 8-10 inches --- meal worms will cause impaction in babies --- have had two of them on this forum in the last week w/ being fed and getting impacted and many in the past --- its best to stay away from them till they are older --- wax worms are fatty and I would feed sparingly --- super worms are okay along w/ horn worms -- yes you dont want a UVB covering the whole tank that is why I recommend 1/2 the tank -- when going to the vet take a fecal w/ you --- please NO enemas --

Beware of vets giving enemas to your dragon | Beardie ER

Just a warning about this because there are at times very bad reactions afterwards including beardie dying within a day to a week . Some vets give an enema when a dragon is going in to brumation and not pooing during this time, not recognizing that beardies rarely poo during their " sleepy "...

www.beardeddragon.org

Are you using a long tube fixture? I am confused--- if your using a Arcadia T 5 bulb it should be 12-15 inches directly over the basking decor INSIDE the tank - if you have it on top of a screen the screen MUST be a wide whole type and 8-10 inches --- meal worms will cause impaction in babies --- have had two of them on this forum in the last week w/ being fed and getting impacted and many in the past --- its best to stay away from them till they are older --- wax worms are fatty and I would feed sparingly --- super worms are okay along w/ horn worms -- yes you dont want a UVB covering the whole tank that is why I recommend 1/2 the tank -- when going to the vet take a fecal w/ you --- please NO enemas --

Beware of vets giving enemas to your dragon | Beardie ER

Just a warning about this because there are at times very bad reactions afterwards including beardie dying within a day to a week . Some vets give an enema when a dragon is going in to brumation and not pooing during this time, not recognizing that beardies rarely poo during their " sleepy "...

www.beardeddragon.org

Its a tube fixture that spans 3/4 of his cage. T5 i believe. It is over the screen about 6-8 in away from basking.

 

[KarrieRee]

If you dont have another UVB in the tank this could be a good reason why hes not eating well - dragon will not eat w/ improper lighting and surface basking temps

Its a tube fixture that spans 3/4 of his cage. T5 i believe. It is over the screen about 6-8 in away from basking.

Ok so is the screen a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type? If its a fine mesh I would recommend getting it into the tank - hes probably not getting enough UVB even w/ it being that close --- they wont eat at all or the eating will not be to what it should be - incorrect UVB will cause this in this case placement- screens block 30% of the rays they need