Sick Bearded Dragon

[Chris92]

While I am still waiting on a copy of the blood test results to post on here, the vet did mention that the most noticeable issue was the Calcium to Phosphorus ratio. He said they were close to 1:1. As mentioned, I have already taken steps to address this with my new T5 UVB bulb in addition to syringing a slurry with some calcium. I also rushed to the store to get a Mercury Vapor bulb and a taller platform for him to get closer to the light. The vet seemed to rule out organ issues based on the numbers, but acknowledged that they were still awaiting some results (apparently blood tests are two parts?). He did mention Drax's blood glucose being a little high (I think he said it was 260). Is this a concerning number? I know GNT is an issue that can plague dragons of this age group, but his family history is pretty clean.

A new symptom also popped up yesterday (before I made any tank changes).... he is now going crazy when I take him out of his tank. He will be calm when I first remove him from his enclosure, but about a minute later his beard and tail tip turn black and he runs full speed panicking for 20 or so seconds... I've never seen anything like it. He has repeated this both times I tried to take him out today to give him his syringe mixture. In fact, his tail is still black from the last time I took him out, and that was 2 hours ago!

I worry that the calcium/phosphorus issue isn't the actual reason for his symptoms (severe weight loss and no appetite), but I am running out of potential diagnoses (and maybe time). Any ideas?

 

[KarrieRee]

While I am still waiting on a copy of the blood test results to post on here, the vet did mention that the most noticeable issue was the Calcium to Phosphorus ratio. He said they were close to 1:1. As mentioned, I have already taken steps to address this with my new T5 UVB bulb in addition to syringing a slurry with some calcium. I also rushed to the store to get a Mercury Vapor bulb and a taller platform for him to get closer to the light. The vet seemed to rule out organ issues based on the numbers, but acknowledged that they were still awaiting some results (apparently blood tests are two parts?). He did mention Drax's blood glucose being a little high (I think he said it was 260). Is this a concerning number? I know GNT is an issue that can plague dragons of this age group, but his family history is pretty clean.

A new symptom also popped up yesterday (before I made any tank changes).... he is now going crazy when I take him out of his tank. He will be calm when I first remove him from his enclosure, but about a minute later his beard and tail tip turn black and he runs full speed panicking for 20 or so seconds... I've never seen anything like it. He has repeated this both times I tried to take him out today to give him his syringe mixture. In fact, his tail is still black from the last time I took him out, and that was 2 hours ago!

I worry that the calcium/phosphorus issue isn't the actual reason for his symptoms (severe weight loss and no appetite), but I am running out of potential diagnoses (and maybe time). Any ideas?

I have not a clue but I want to get this post flagged to Tracie Drache613 when the blood test come in - she is our vet tech and will be able to read those results -- beard turning black is distress - I am thinking but the tail tip turning black not sure about that one- what bulb did you get the MegaRay?

 

[Chris92]

I have not a clue but I want to get this post flagged to Tracie Drache613 when the blood test come in - she is our vet tech and will be able to read those results -- beard turning black is distress - I am thinking but the tail tip turning black not sure about that one- what bulb did you get the MegaRay?

I purchased the only mercury vapor bulb that was available at my local Petsmart (Thrive 3 in 1). The reviews were positive and it is advertised specifically for bearded dragons. Right now I have that with the platform right under it to go along with the T5 Reptisun UVB tube.

It just really doesn't seem like its calcium related considering he is moving quite well (impressively well during these freakouts). When he is in the tank though, he just sits under the basking spot, not as perky as he was last week. He is very thin when viewed from the side and in a couple days it will mark one month since he has eaten on his own

 

[KarrieRee]

I purchased the only mercury vapor bulb that was available at my local Petsmart (Thrive 3 in 1). The reviews were positive and it is advertised specifically for bearded dragons. Right now I have that with the platform right under it to go along with the T5 Reptisun UVB tube.

It just really doesn't seem like its calcium related considering he is moving quite well (impressively well during these freakouts). When he is in the tank though, he just sits under the basking spot, not as perky as he was last week. He is very thin when viewed from the side and in a couple days it will mark one month since he has eaten on his own

Please take the Thrive back that is a terrible MVB --- get a regular basking bulb Exo Terra 150 watt Intense basking bulb -- use the T 5 UVB they are a great bulb ---- you dont need a MVB w/ the T 5 you have ---- your asking for the health issues to get worse w/ the Thrive----------- did we go over placement for the T 5 ? Make sure you have the digital probe thermometers for surface basking temps -- 95-100

 

[Chris92]

Please take the Thrive back that is a terrible MVB --- get a regular basking bulb Exo Terra 150 watt Intense basking bulb -- use the T 5 UVB they are a great bulb ---- you dont need a MVB w/ the T 5 you have ---- your asking for the health issues to get worse w/ the Thrive----------- did we go over placement for the T 5 ? Make sure you have the digital probe thermometers for surface basking temps -- 95-100

What brand would you recommend for a MVB because the vet tech seemed adamant that I try a MVB. Also, if you don't mind me asking, what is wrong with Thrive brand?

As for the T 5 placement, I have it on the screen, with a surface 8 inches beneath.

 

[KarrieRee]

What brand would you recommend for a MVB because the vet tech seemed adamant that I try a MVB. Also, if you don't mind me asking, what is wrong with Thrive brand?

As for the T 5 placement, I have it on the screen, with a surface 8 inches beneath.

Please post a pic of the screen-- top view- the thrive brand for any of the coils or mvb aren't good - they are not up to par- -- the domes the solid bright white basking bulbs are ok - but the uvb's and their uvb hoods aren't good- the ones I have seen have no reflectors in them which is not good -

 

[Chris92]

Please post a pic of the screen-- top view- the thrive brand for any of the coils or mvb aren't good - they are not up to par- -- the domes the solid bright white basking bulbs are ok - but the uvb's and their uvb hoods aren't good- the ones I have seen

Please post a pic of the screen-- top view- the thrive brand for any of the coils or mvb aren't good - they are not up to par- -- the domes the solid bright white basking bulbs are ok - but the uvb's and their uvb hoods aren't good- the ones I have seen have no reflectors in them which is not good -

Here is the updated setup (two standard Zoomed 75 W basking bulbs and the 10.0 Reptisun T5 UVB tubes:

 

[KarrieRee]

Here is the updated setup (two standard Zoomed 75 W basking bulbs and the 10.0 Reptisun T5 UVB tubes:

Ok screen is a wide hole please get a piece of decor directly under the uvb 8-10 inches- please take the thrive mvb back keep your zoo med basking bulbs - make sure your surface basking temps are 95-100 w/ to the probe- with this in order he should be more active eating on his own more colorful and pooping -next I want to get started on his diet --- what are you feeding for insects and how often? salads fresh every day- here is a website for nutrition ignore the kale thing its a great staple feeder Nutrition Content
when you can afford it please get them both dragons some horn worms super worms and some meal worms - the horn worms are a hydrating worm and grow fast so order small amounts you can feed 1-2 of them everyday or so - the meal worms and the super worms feed every other day 1-4 of them we dont want them hooked on the worms -- its best to order all your insects / worms on line they are cheaper and you can order in bulk --- staple insects should be fed 2-3 times per week - Drak 3 times for now they should be dusted w/ calcium D3 for Drak I dont know anything about your dragon - hes going to start absorbing the calcium now that he has proper UVB any MBD going on will not progress any further- as far as the MVB I would stick w/ your regular basking bulbs you have now - those are going to be cheaper to maintain --- the T 5 should be changed out in approx one year I recommend a month prior to please mark the box or the calendar for day of install -- the hammock is too close to the UVB 8-10 inches please

 

[Chris92]

Ok screen is a wide hole please get a piece of decor directly under the uvb 8-10 inches- please take the thrive mvb back keep your zoo med basking bulbs - make sure your surface basking temps are 95-100 w/ to the probe- with this in order he should be more active eating on his own more colorful and pooping -next I want to get started on his diet --- what are you feeding for insects and how often? salads fresh every day- here is a website for nutrition ignore the kale thing its a great staple feeder Nutrition Content
when you can afford it please get them both dragons some horn worms super worms and some meal worms - the horn worms are a hydrating worm and grow fast so order small amounts you can feed 1-2 of them everyday or so - the meal worms and the super worms feed every other day 1-4 of them we dont want them hooked on the worms -- its best to order all your insects / worms on line they are cheaper and you can order in bulk --- staple insects should be fed 2-3 times per week - Drak 3 times for now they should be dusted w/ calcium D3 for Drak I dont know anything about your dragon - hes going to start absorbing the calcium now that he has proper UVB any MBD going on will not progress any further- as far as the MVB I would stick w/ your regular basking bulbs you have now - those are going to be cheaper to maintain --- the T 5 should be changed out in approx one year I recommend a month prior to please mark the box or the calendar for day of install -- the hammock is too close to the UVB 8-10 inches please

 

[Chris92]

I measured the hammock and it is 9 inches away from the bulb, I thought that was okay?

Also, I'm still waiting for the vet to send me a copy of the blood work, but the calcium level was 7.2 and phosphorus was 7.4... that was the only abnormality that they noticed.

The black bearding and spastic running around is definitely worrisome, I cannot get him to even syringe feed right now.

Diet:
Greens - collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, bell peppers, green beans, kale, squash, and bananas and blueberries
I offer a mixture of these greens every day
Bugs - dubia roaches/phoenix worms are the staple bug I offer almost daily, crickets, and occasionally hornworms, wax worms, and super worms
I dust bugs 3 or 4 days a week with calcium (w/d3), sometimes I do a day or 2 of none d3

 

[KarrieRee]

I measured the hammock and it is 9 inches away from the bulb, I thought that was okay?

Also, I'm still waiting for the vet to send me a copy of the blood work, but the calcium level was 7.2 and phosphorus was 7.4... that was the only abnormality that they noticed.

The black bearding and spastic running around is definitely worrisome, I cannot get him to even syringe feed right now.

Diet:
Greens - collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, bell peppers, green beans, kale, squash, and bananas and blueberries
I offer a mixture of these greens every day
Bugs - dubia roaches/phoenix worms are the staple bug I offer almost daily, crickets, and occasionally hornworms, wax worms, and super worms
I dust bugs 3 or 4 days a week with calcium (w/d3), sometimes I do a day or 2 of none d3

The uvb distance is good it looked closer- the behavior is more than likely all the changes going on poor guy has had a major environment change plus diet give him time to adjust and offer him food see if he will eat on his own- please only dust ONCE per day on the insects you don't want to over calcium him and only feed those insects to him 3 times per week unless Tracie says otherwise- but you have done good - hopefully his health is going to turn around here it should w/ all the proper temps and uvb- I forgot to mention do not let the dragons see one another or ever be together + it will stress them both out

 

[Chris92]

This new symptom is starting to take over. He just panics and runs around full speed in the tank bumping into stuff and rubbing against everything. It's almost a slither more than a run. He looks like a snake...

 

[KarrieRee]

This new symptom is starting to take over. He just panics and runs around full speed in the tank bumping into stuff and rubbing against everything. It's almost a slither more than a run. He looks like a snake...

Ok get a video of him -- record on youtube then post the link and I am going to have the vet tech watch it along w/ another person on the forum --

 

[Chris92]

Thank you! I will record it later today when I am home from work...

In the meantime, I have the blood results. Would someone be able to take a look at these and see if they catch anything (outside of the calcium/phosphorus issue). I still question whether this is the cause of ALL of his issues Results are attached.

 

[Chris92]

Thank you! I will record it later today when I am home from work...

In the meantime, I have the blood results. Would someone be able to take a look at these and see if they catch anything (outside of the calcium/phosphorus issue). I still question whether this is the cause of ALL of his issues Results are attached.

He didn't do the snake thing during my lunch break, but he continues to freak out. He does this even when no one is around. This just started 2 days ago and he is doing it more and more.