Bearded Dragon Care Q&A

Enclosures What is the Ideal Humidity for a Bearded Dragon, and How Do I Maintain It?

Bearded dragon on log with hydrometer
The ideal relative humidity in a bearded dragon enclosure should be around 30% to 40% during the day. In most homes, relative humidity goes up at night, so aim for the humidity levels to be at most 50% to 55%. Always keep the relative humidity above 20% to 25% if possible. However, it is unlikely that your bearded dragon will suffer health complications if the humidity falls to 10% at certain parts of the day. Bearded dragons hail from arid and semi-arid regions of Australia, where the humidity sometimes drops to 10%.

Always measure humidity in your beardie's enclosure using a digital probe hygrometer. Please do not rely on analog hygrometers since they tend to be inaccurate. When you measure humidity, please place the probe on the back center wall of the tank.
 
Generally, bearded dragons suffer many more health problems from high humidity than from low humidity levels. For instance, high humidity levels can lead to fungal infections, such as the dreaded yellow fungus, and bacterial infections, such as upper respiratory infections (URIs).

Humidity levels that regularly approach 70% or higher (especially if you're seeing condensation on the glass) can contribute to unsanitary conditions in your bearded dragon's enclosure, leading to the proliferation of fungal and bacterial organisms that can harm your beardie.

Please keep in mind that if you measure humidity closer to the basking side of the enclosure, you will likely get humidity levels much lower than the average for your beardie's tank since the hot side of the enclosure is baked by the basking lamp during the day. Likewise, measuring the cool side will result in higher readings.

So what is the best way to control and maintain humidity levels in your beardie's habitat? Taking measurements with a digital hygrometer is an essential first step.

Another vital thing to remember is that only screen tops provide the proper ventilation for a bearded dragon enclosure. Adequate ventilation is essential for regulating humidity levels. Glass lids would increase humidity to unacceptable levels for bearded dragons.

Maintaining proper temperatures on the hot and cool sides of the enclosure can also help regulate humidity levels.

For most homes, a room humidifier to increase the humidity in your beardie's tank is unnecessary. However, if you choose to use a room humidifier, please make sure that the humidifier automatically stops after reaching the desired humidity level. It is also essential to never mist your bearded dragon or the enclosure since they are not tropical species and will suffer various health problems from this practice. While many bearded dragons won't drink from a water dish, some owners choose to have a water dish in the enclosure to increase humidity levels.

Inversely, if you're trying to decrease humidity levels, ensure the room is well-ventilated, use a small dehumidifier if needed, and remove the water dish from the beardie's enclosure. If you are uncomfortable with completely removing the water dish, place it on the cool side of the enclosure to reduce evaporation. A rice sock placed inside the tank can also help lower humidity. Avoid using water features such as bubblers. If your enclosure contains live plants, put them on the cool side.

Please keep in mind that it is normal for humidity levels to fluctuate. In many cases, you may not need to do anything to increase or decrease the humidity inside your beardie's tank. It is far more essential to ensure that your general husbandry practices are sound than to monitor and control relative humidity levels compulsively. Healthy bearded dragons not stressed by their environment are more likely to manage normal humidity-level fluctuations without adverse health effects.
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Enclosures What Substrate Should I Use in My Bearded Dragon Enclosure?

Bearded dragon substrate decisions
There is a wide variety of bearded dragon substrates and much debate within the bearded dragon community regarding which substrate is best. The choice frequently comes down to personal preference, cost, the personality of your bearded dragon, and other special considerations, such as your beardie's age and whether or not your dragon is dealing with a new or ongoing illness or a parasitic infection.

Bearded dragon substrates can be grouped into particulate or loose substrates and non-particulate substrates. Examples of particulate substrates include specialized sand-based substrates, clay burrowing substrates, sand/topsoil blends, coconut and walnut substrates, and many bioactive substrates. Examples of non-particular substrates include paper towels, newspapers, non-adhesive shelf liner, non-adhesive ceramic or slate tile, reptile carpet, and fake grass.

Non-particulate substrates are typically recommended for beginner bearded dragon owners to reduce the risk of impaction--a dangerous condition in which a beardie's digestive tract becomes blocked by bits of the ingested substrate. Non-adhesive shelf liners and non-adhesive ceramic or slate tiles are the easiest to clean and maintain and eliminate the risk of impaction from swallowing loose particles found in other substrates. They are also aesthetically pleasing and fit into many decor styles.
 
Some quality sand-based blends and clay-based blends formulated by several reputable reptile companies tend to appeal to owners who prefer a more "natural" substrate for their beardie. Some bearded dragons also like to burrow, dig, or explore new textures, so a burrowing clay substrate or a dig box with a sand-based product may be needed.

However, just because a product is marketed for reptile use does not automatically make it safe. Many people have reported safety issues using sand mats, calcium sand, ground walnut "sand," and many other sand-based products. Sand, in its various forms, remains the most hotly debated substrate in the bearded dragon community, with many owners using some sand or sand-based blend either as a primary substrate or in a "sensory" dig box set up in a part of a beardie's enclosure.

Proper husbandry practices can significantly reduce loose substrate impaction risk because healthy dragons usually only ingest substrates accidentally during feeding (and not when searching for nutrients, for example). Healthy dragons are also more likely to eliminate small amounts of the ingested substrate without health complications.

Substrates that hold too much moisture, such as bark or mulch, or products that degrade or become moldy when exposed to water, such as alfalfa pellets, are not recommended. Another substrate that is not recommended for bearded dragons is coconut fiber. Coconut fiber tends to be too dry and can cause upper respiratory infections (URI), in addition to being hard to maintain and prone to bacterial buildup. Reptile carpets can also harbor bacteria and be more challenging to clean. In addition, reptile carpet poses dangers to beardies' toes if their nails get caught in the loops of the reptile carpet material (felt reptile carpets are especially problematic).

Paper towels and newspapers are less aesthetically pleasing than other substrates. Still, they can be suitable for beardies dealing with parasitic infections and other illnesses because they can be frequently changed. Quickly disposable substrates, such as paper towels or newspapers, are also an excellent choice for baby bearded dragons who are messy eaters.

Generally, non-particulate substrates are preferred for young and juvenile bearded dragons because they tend to be more clumsy and curious about their environment than mature beardies.

Please maintain the substrate regularly to prevent bacterial buildup, fungal growth, and other issues. Beardies living in unsanitary conditions can develop fungal, parasitic, and upper respiratory infections.
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Enclosures How Big of a Tank Does a Bearded Dragon Need?

Gaping bearded dragon
The minimum recommended size reptile tank for an adult bearded dragon is a 40-gallon breeder tank (36" x 18" x 18"). You can house a baby bearded dragon in a 20-gallon tank but prepare to upgrade to a 40-gallon tank (or larger) when the baby grows to about 10 inches long (around three months of age) to keep him happy and healthy. Likewise, you can house a baby bearded dragon in a 40-gallon reptile tank to avoid extra expenses and relocation stress for your beardie. When housing a young bearded dragon in a tank larger than 40 gallons, make sure that your beardie can hunt for food effectively.

If you have the space for it, upgrading to a 120-gallon tank (4'x 2' x2' or 48" x 24" x 24") is ideal. Maintaining a proper cool side and basking spot temperatures in a larger tank is much easier, and your beardie will have plenty of room to explore and hunt. If you're limited on space and looking for something in between, a 67-gallon tank (48" x 18" x 18") or a 75-gallon tank (48" x 18" x 21") would also work pretty well.
 
Larger enclosures help bearded dragons regulate their body temperature better because they can easily move somewhere different or hide if exposed to uncomfortable temperatures. When in doubt, prioritize floor space, and make sure that the depth (width) is at least 18 inches, so that your beardie can easily turn around. Fifty-five gallon tanks with dimensions 48" x 13" x 20" are not wide enough to house a bearded dragon, so definitely avoid them.

When searching for the right-sized tank, also be sure to avoid taller enclosures. Bearded dragons prefer having more floor space and can't use vertical space as effectively as other reptiles, such as chameleons.
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