Young Beardie not eating

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Hello all. I'm a first time Beardie owner and have a 7-8 month old bearded dragon. She usually eats like crazy but has barely touched her food in over a week. She poos small amounts about every other day and they appear normal.

From what I've read, she's too young to be starting brumation but she is a bit sluggish. She also only wants to sit under her heat lamp and bask which makes me think it's not brumation. I think she is starting to lose weight too

I've changed the lights, given her warm baths every day.
So I'm not sure what's causing this odd behavior.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
Could you tell me what her setup is? Maybe shes just being sluggish because of wrong temps/humidity ect? I know that sometimes younger beardies will burmate but it wont exactly be a full deep burmation.
 

Linusreptilian

Member
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VenusAndSaturn":825rjomw said:
Could you tell me what her setup is? Maybe shes just being sluggish because of wrong temps/humidity ect? I know that sometimes younger beardies will burmate but it wont exactly be a full deep burmation.

She has a 40 gallon tank with zoo med heat and UVB lights. He basking spot is about 100 degrees and humidity is about 40 percent which is high but about the usual amount since we live the south it's hard to keep the humidity out.i finally added sand substrate just a couple days ago to help with the humidity and I think it brought it down slightly.

Every now and then she will leave her perch and run to the other side of the tank and immediatly run right back.
 

CooperDragon

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Do you know the temps on the other side of the tank? It's important to create a good gradient so there are plenty of options. Which ZooMed UVB light are you using? How far is it above the basking spot? Lighting especially can take some fine tuning to get right but it's important and we'll be glad to help.
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
You added sand substrate? Im not exactly sure if that brings the humidity down at all and im one of those people who are against using sand since i used to have a beardie that died because of just a few minutes on it. Plus its not really natural.. but whats the uvb lighting and how old is it?
 

Linusreptilian

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":2ir1sim9 said:
Do you know the temps on the other side of the tank? It's important to create a good gradient so there are plenty of options. Which ZooMed UVB light are you using? How far is it above the basking spot? Lighting especially can take some fine tuning to get right but it's important and we'll be glad to help.

100 w basking, 10 w UVB. The cool side of the tank looks to be about 80 degrees. Her basking spot is probably 7 inches or so from the lamp :) I replaced her basking lamp about a month ago and her UVB a couple days ago thinking that might be the culprit
 

CooperDragon

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80 is good for the cool side temperature. What kind of thermometer do you have?

I'm not sure which bulb is 10w. Can you post a photo of it? A T8 18'' tube would be 15w and a compact bulb would usually be 13w or 26w.
 

Linusreptilian

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CooperDragon":24xsgr7h said:
80 is good for the cool side temperature. What kind of thermometer do you have?

I'm not sure which bulb is 10w. Can you post a photo of it? A T8 18'' tube would be 15w and a compact bulb would usually be 13w or 26w.
Oops it is a 13w... I read it wrong. The thermometer is also zoo med
 

CooperDragon

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It it a digital thermometer with a probe or a round analog thermometer? One measures surface temp and the other measures ambient temp. You want to base your lighting on surface temp so it's best to use a digital thermometer with a probe (I'd use one on each end of the tank because it takes a while for them to get an accurate reading) or an IR temp gun which can spot check surface temps instantly.

The 13w compact bulb isn't powerful enough for a bearded dragon. I would swap that out for at least a 26w Exo Terra UVB200 which would be appropriate at that distance. In a 40g tank though, I'd invest in a 24'' T5 tube which will produce daylight UVB levels over the basking area and last much longer.
 

Linusreptilian

Member
Original Poster
VenusAndSaturn":1ltzqqmo said:
You added sand substrate? Im not exactly sure if that brings the humidity down at all and im one of those people who are against using sand since i used to have a beardie that died because of just a few minutes on it. Plus its not really natural.. but whats the uvb lighting and how old is it?

I decided to try the substrate a couple days ago. She hasn't tried eating since I've had it in there so I know it's probably not causing any problems yet. I replace the UVB two days ago. It's 13w desert UVB from "all living things"
 

Linusreptilian

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":1xfvzwwb said:
It it a digital thermometer with a probe or a round analog thermometer? One measures surface temp and the other measures ambient temp. You want to base your lighting on surface temp so it's best to use a digital thermometer with a probe (I'd use one on each end of the tank because it takes a while for them to get an accurate reading) or an IR temp gun which can spot check surface temps instantly.

The 13w compact bulb isn't powerful enough for a bearded dragon. I would swap that out for at least a 26w Exo Terra UVB200 which would be appropriate at that distance. In a 40g tank though, I'd invest in a 24'' T5 tube which will produce daylight UVB levels over the basking area and last much longer.

It's an analog thermometer. I will try a 26w bulb and see if that helps. But most of the setup, especially the lighting and basking area have been kept the same so do you think her appetite would change so suddenly and drastically?
 

CooperDragon

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Staff member
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EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
You need to get her an adequate UVB light immediately, and get rid of the sand immediately. First off, the humidity being 40% is absolutely fine, it could be 60% and be fine for a bearded dragon. Humidity is not at all a big deal for bearded dragons, it can range from 20% to 70% and be fine. So that is not the issue at all, and the sand is only going to either cause an impaction because they lick everything, and if it's Calcium Sand or any kind of Reptisand, which is the same thing, it can be immediately lethal. Sand also harbors bacteria, fungi, and parasites, so if that happens to be what her problem is, like she has parasites, the sand will cause her to keep reinfecting herself. So please, immediately get that sand out of there, it's only going to cause additional health issues she doesn't need right now since she's already stopped eating. Dump the sand, be sure to disinfect the tank, and then just put down clean, dry paper towels and replace them as they get soiled. Keeping her tank very clean right now is important, and the sand is counterproductive.

The only compact (regular, lightbulb shaped) UVB bulb that is adequate for a bearded dragon is going to be a 26 watt UVB compact bulb, like the Exo Terra one. However, if you have a large enclosure like a 40 gallon, you really need to buy a long UVB tube, either an 18" or a 24" long UVB tube, that is a 10.0 UVB tube (never a 5.0 or a 2.0, they are very weak). And I'm sorry, but the brand All Living Things is PetSmart's house brand, and is made in the same factory in China as all the other cheap light brands like ReptileOne and the endless others that often cause eye damage because the lights emit harmful rays due to the cheap manufacturing process. So not only is a 13 watt UVB totally inappropriate for a bearded dragon, it's a compact bulb, which only focuses the UVB light straight under it instead of all over the tank, and it is a cheap bulb that can actually be harmful. Combine all of these things with the fact that you probably have the already too weak 13 watt UVB bulb sitting on top of a mesh lid, which is blocking between 30%-50% of the already too weak UVB light, and your beardie has not been getting hardly any UVB light at all, which has finally caught up with him, hence the lack of appetite. Soon he will also become more and more lethargic, and then the calcium deficiency will start causing issues, because without proper UVB light for 13-14 hours every single day, a bearded dragon cannot manufacture vitamin D3, and thus cannot process and absorb any calcium they are eating in their food or supplements you're giving him. This is the normal process that happens every time someone uses an inadequate UVB bulb and their bearded dragon is not getting adequate, if any UVB and UVA light.

For that size tank you need to buy either an 18" or 24" Reptisun brand 10.0 T8 or T5 High-Output UVB tube, or an Arcadia 12% T5HO UVB tube, and a matching length, long tube fixture to hold it. If you buy the weaker Reptisun 10.0 T8 UVB tube then it must absolutely be mounted under the mesh lid using either 3M Command Hooks or something similar, or by poking holes in the mesh lid and using large zip ties to strap the long tube fixture to the underside of the mesh lid. The T8 UVB tube must also be within 6-8" of his basking spot, and must be replaced every 6 months at a minimum because they stop emitting any UVB light at that point, even though they still turn on and light up. If you buy an 18" or 24" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube or the Arcadia 12% T5 UVB tube, they can sit on top of the mesh lid because they are strong enough to penetrate the mesh and still deliver adequate UVB light to your beardie, but they must still be within at least 11" of his basking spot, and they must be replaced once every 10 months to a year at a minimum because that's when they stop emitting any UVB light at all. YOU ALSO NEED TO MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT WHATEVER LONG, TUBE FIXTURE YOU BUY FOR THE UVB TUBE DOES NOT HAVE A CLEAR, PLASTIC SAFETY COVER ON IT THAT COVERS THE UVB TUBE, THAT WILL BLOCK ALL THE UVB LIGHT AND MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE FIXTURE BEFORE SETTING IT UP...ALSO, THE FIXTURE MUST HAVE EITHER A BUILT-IN REFLECTOR BEHIND WHERE THE UVB TUBE FITS TO REFLECT THE UVB LIGHT THROUGHOUT THE TANK, OR YOU MUST ORDER OR BUY A SLIP-ON OR CLIP-ON UVB TUBE REFLECTOR THAT IS THE SAME LENGTH AS THE UVB TUBE YOU BUY. MOST LONG TUBE FIXTURES HAVE A REFLECTOR BUILT-IN, BUT YOU MUST CHECK.

Your other UVB light option is to buy either a MegaRay or a PowerSun Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB), which are all-in-one bulbs that act as both the UVB light and the basking/heat light, so you would no longer need the higher wattage basking bulb you're using now, though often times for a larger tank you will need a secondary lower wattage, bright white basking light over the Cool Side of the tank to get the temperatures within the correct ranges. MVB bulbs fit into a regular fixture, but you cannot use a deep dome fixture for one, it must be a clamp lamp or open dome fixture with a round reflector surrounding the MVB bulb so it gets reflected throughout the tank. The MVB lights must be replaced every 10 months to a year because they stop emitting any UVB light at that point. The MegaRay is the best MVB light from what I've read and seen.
 
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