Ok Its been almost 2 wks...i feed him 6-8 crickets at a time...all the sudden about two wks ago he just stopped eatin...wont even acknowlege them...he has become very lazy and wont move off his basking branch....i dont know what to do...and also it seems like his growth has just stopped...and he has developed alot of stress marks and got skinny...started to feed him juvenile bearded dragon food by repto cal and at first he started to eat that but then just stopped...im just really confused....any kind of help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated....
why wont my beardie eat??
- Thread starter BC86
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[Moved from Website Comments to Health]
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What type of light source do you have in his viv? Are you using a UV? What are the temps in the viv? How old is he? Even for a baby, 6-8 crickets a day is hardly enough food. Are you feeding him anything else, like veggies? How's his bowel movements? Pooping daily? Are his poop runny and smelly (which could be signs of parasites)?
If you could provide more information, we'd be more able to answer your questions.
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What type of light source do you have in his viv? Are you using a UV? What are the temps in the viv? How old is he? Even for a baby, 6-8 crickets a day is hardly enough food. Are you feeding him anything else, like veggies? How's his bowel movements? Pooping daily? Are his poop runny and smelly (which could be signs of parasites)?
If you could provide more information, we'd be more able to answer your questions.
thank you... just to start... this is the first time i have ever had a b.d. i got him from somebody who didnt want it, he was kept in a box with lights before i got him, the box wasnt even a terrerium, and this person never even really acknowleged him, just fed him once a week, and he asked me if i wanted cus he didnt anymore, i have a 55 gallon tank, 13" Wide, 48" Long, 19" Tall... no i havent ever bathed him...he hates being handled,when ever i go to pick him up he flares out and runs...and i only have one temp gauge in my tank, its a digital one, and i just kinda set it up in the middle of the tank, i have a 100 watt (bought today, upgrade from the 75 watt one i had before just a little while ago) heating light on the right side of the tank, and a UV bulb in the middle, and a red day light on the left side, he gets light for 11 hours a day (thats what i was told by the person i got him from, for how much light a day he got) i didnt really change his eating habits, once about every few days i would give him 6 crickets at a time, then i bought that juvenile dragon food, it is like a pellet food, just in case he got hungry in between the time i would feed crickets....i cant seem to get the temp. in his tank above 75F IDK why that is, he pooped a few days ago, cleaned his tank completly today, new sand and everything, he seems to be exploring more than he was... i also tried to get some mealworms and put them in there, he bit into one held it in his mouth for a second then spit it back out into the dish...i tried to hand feed him but he wont open his mouth to eat...i just dont know what to do... he pooped about 2 days ago, it never really seems to be runny always pretty solid... IDK if he eats at night when im asleep, cus i keep the juvenile pellet food in his tank at all times...
How old is he? If he's still a juvie (under 1 year old), then he should be eating on average of at least 60 crickets a day. The size of the crickets should be no bigger (in length) than the space between his eyes (because that's how wide his throat is). As for mealworms, they're not very good for younger beardies because the chitin (shell) is not easily digestible, thus may cause impaction. For juvies, live feeders should be high in protein and low in fat.
You need to introduce greens and fruits into his diet, and it should be offered to him everyday. The pellets doesn't offer as much nutrition as real food and live feeders would. You could add a few into his daily salad. Beautiful Dragons' website has a list of many human foods that you can offer to your beardie. Just be sure to cut up the pieces small enough that he won't end up choking on them.
You don't need the red daylight bulb. If you need to up the temps, a simple household bulb (75 to 100 watts) would do the job - and much easier on your wallet. What type of UV bulb are you using? Coil or tube? ReptiSun 10.0 offers the best full spectrum of UV. You should only be heating up the side of the tank that is used for basking. There should be a cool side for when he feels overheated. The digital thermometer you have - is it a probe type? If so, the probe should rest on the basking surface to accurately measure the temps.
What type of sand is in his viv? If it's calci sand, PLEASE remove it immediately and replace it with either paper towels or non-adhesive shelf liner. Calci sand, if ingested, will bind in the beardie's system and would cause impaction, and you won't know it until it's too late.
Would it be possible for you to post a pic of his setup? This way I could offer you more advice/suggestions on what needs to be changed or what's ok as is.
You need to introduce greens and fruits into his diet, and it should be offered to him everyday. The pellets doesn't offer as much nutrition as real food and live feeders would. You could add a few into his daily salad. Beautiful Dragons' website has a list of many human foods that you can offer to your beardie. Just be sure to cut up the pieces small enough that he won't end up choking on them.
You don't need the red daylight bulb. If you need to up the temps, a simple household bulb (75 to 100 watts) would do the job - and much easier on your wallet. What type of UV bulb are you using? Coil or tube? ReptiSun 10.0 offers the best full spectrum of UV. You should only be heating up the side of the tank that is used for basking. There should be a cool side for when he feels overheated. The digital thermometer you have - is it a probe type? If so, the probe should rest on the basking surface to accurately measure the temps.
What type of sand is in his viv? If it's calci sand, PLEASE remove it immediately and replace it with either paper towels or non-adhesive shelf liner. Calci sand, if ingested, will bind in the beardie's system and would cause impaction, and you won't know it until it's too late.
Would it be possible for you to post a pic of his setup? This way I could offer you more advice/suggestions on what needs to be changed or what's ok as is.
ok, im using a 10.0 UV coil bulb by Exo Terra, a 100 watt basking bulb by Zoo Med...I have a thermostat (digital), with a probe, the probe sits against the glass on the backside of the tank, about 3" lower than his highest basking point....could you answer a few questions i have:
-what amount of hours should i leave the UVB, and the Basking Bulb on a day?
-should I leave the UVB, or the Basking Bulb on 24 hours a day or shut them off at night?
(that is what i do right now, I leave the UVB and the Basking Bulb on from 6:30 Am to 6:30 Pm, then just a red light until the cycle starts over)
-is it ok to use washed playsand?
(I have the calci sand in his tank right now)
-what should the % of humidity be at in his tank?
(right now it bounces between 40% and 50% throughout the day,)
-if the humidity needs to go down how can i get it lower?
i have pics on my computer, but how do i upload them?
his highest point on the basking area is about 6" from the screen at the top of the tank right below the Basking Bulb...
-what amount of hours should i leave the UVB, and the Basking Bulb on a day?
-should I leave the UVB, or the Basking Bulb on 24 hours a day or shut them off at night?
(that is what i do right now, I leave the UVB and the Basking Bulb on from 6:30 Am to 6:30 Pm, then just a red light until the cycle starts over)
-is it ok to use washed playsand?
(I have the calci sand in his tank right now)
-what should the % of humidity be at in his tank?
(right now it bounces between 40% and 50% throughout the day,)
-if the humidity needs to go down how can i get it lower?
i have pics on my computer, but how do i upload them?
his highest point on the basking area is about 6" from the screen at the top of the tank right below the Basking Bulb...
Ethelia
Extreme Poster
Hi there,
I can spot a few things that may well be causing a lethargic dragon.
Firstly the coil UVB bulb. Unfortunatly not only do these bulbs produce very poor UVB but they are actually hazardous to your dragons health. They are especially linked with eye problems in dragons.
I would remove it tonight and not turn it back on again until you get a new UVB.
The best UVB bulb out there is the ReptiSun(not reptiglo) 10.0 strip bulb. You want to avoid any coils or compacts as they are all dreadful.
Your dragon needs to be within about 6=8 inches of the bulb to get good exposure.
To take the temperature accuratley you need to leave the probe directly on the basking site for 45 minutes before taking a reading.
You need a basking temperature of 95-105 for your aged dragon.
At night there should be nothing on as any light can disturb your dragons sleep, which can lead to a cranky and lethargic dragon.
Ditch any "night time" bulbs you have. Its a cracking con to sell red "infra red" bulbs for bearde ddragons as they DO disturb dragons sleep as they can sense the light.
Your night time temperatures can safely drop to around 65 without you needing any night time heating boost.
If you do need a boost in temps at night you need to buy a Ceramic Heat Emmiter. This is a plate shaped bulb that radiates out heat without producing any light.
Washed playsand is only advised for adult bearded dragons.
Babies and juvies are far too inquisative and often end up ingesting their sand, especially if they are fed in their enclosures.
Calcium sand unfortunatly can be fatal for dragons. No if ands or buts about it im afraid. Sand is enough of a risk on its own but calcium sand not only encorages your dragon to lick it but it actually solidifies if mixed with water. This can lead to awful and dangerous blockages in your dragons intestines.
So all in all get the sand out tonight.
For a juvie your safe substrates are:
Tiles
Kitchen roll/Paper towels
Shelf liner
Non adhesive vinyl tiles
Repti Carpet
Newspaper (although there is sometimes an ink transfere issue).
Until you get a long term solution I would replace your sand with paper towels for now.
So things to do right away:
Out with the UVB bulb
Out with the sand
Buy a new bulb tomorrow or order one online tonight.
You will be amazed at the difference in your dragon when he gets his UVB bulb.
Holly
I can spot a few things that may well be causing a lethargic dragon.
Firstly the coil UVB bulb. Unfortunatly not only do these bulbs produce very poor UVB but they are actually hazardous to your dragons health. They are especially linked with eye problems in dragons.
I would remove it tonight and not turn it back on again until you get a new UVB.
The best UVB bulb out there is the ReptiSun(not reptiglo) 10.0 strip bulb. You want to avoid any coils or compacts as they are all dreadful.
Your dragon needs to be within about 6=8 inches of the bulb to get good exposure.
To take the temperature accuratley you need to leave the probe directly on the basking site for 45 minutes before taking a reading.
You need a basking temperature of 95-105 for your aged dragon.
At night there should be nothing on as any light can disturb your dragons sleep, which can lead to a cranky and lethargic dragon.
Ditch any "night time" bulbs you have. Its a cracking con to sell red "infra red" bulbs for bearde ddragons as they DO disturb dragons sleep as they can sense the light.
Your night time temperatures can safely drop to around 65 without you needing any night time heating boost.
If you do need a boost in temps at night you need to buy a Ceramic Heat Emmiter. This is a plate shaped bulb that radiates out heat without producing any light.
Washed playsand is only advised for adult bearded dragons.
Babies and juvies are far too inquisative and often end up ingesting their sand, especially if they are fed in their enclosures.
Calcium sand unfortunatly can be fatal for dragons. No if ands or buts about it im afraid. Sand is enough of a risk on its own but calcium sand not only encorages your dragon to lick it but it actually solidifies if mixed with water. This can lead to awful and dangerous blockages in your dragons intestines.
So all in all get the sand out tonight.
For a juvie your safe substrates are:
Tiles
Kitchen roll/Paper towels
Shelf liner
Non adhesive vinyl tiles
Repti Carpet
Newspaper (although there is sometimes an ink transfere issue).
Until you get a long term solution I would replace your sand with paper towels for now.
So things to do right away:
Out with the UVB bulb
Out with the sand
Buy a new bulb tomorrow or order one online tonight.
You will be amazed at the difference in your dragon when he gets his UVB bulb.
Holly
munchkins9802
Gray-bearded Member
HI yes SOME of the pet stores carry them but you will pay an arm and a leg. At the pet store, the repti sun 10.0 flourescent tube will run you $35-$40. Then you go to lowes to get a fixture for $10-15 for the tube
On petmountain.com, you can get the bulb for $19.99
On petmountain.com, you can get the bulb for $19.99
thank you all...he just started ate about 10 minutes ago...not very many crickets but it is a start...all i need to get now is a UV tube... and if someone could just answer that one last question: what should the humidity be at? it never gets lower than 40% and never higher than 50%...if that needs to be lower or higher could you please give me an idea on how to adjust...thank you all for your help...
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