When can I give him more live food besides crickets?

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The pet store we just got our dragon from told us just crickets for now as far as live food is concerned. It just hit me that I don't know when it would be okay to give him other foods I am seeing online like superworms, mealworms, etc. Is there some schedule I can follow or wait for him to be a certain size? Thanks a lot for all your help!
 

TheWerewolf

Gray-bearded Member
Stay away from mealworms. They have a hard chitin shell that will impact a baby dragon. Supers are too large for a baby. Wax worms are a treat due to fat content. But there are other healthier live food alternatives. Phoenix worms are a high in calcium soft bodied worm. You could also feed dubia roaches. Just remember, don't feed food no bigger than the space between the eyes. Hope this helps! :D
 

Burra

Hatchling Member
Phoenix worms are great, nutritious, soft bodied, and even the large size is small. The downside is they are a little pricey, and you have to feed more because of their size. I personally keep them in my rotation of foods and use them at least once a week.

Silk worms can also be fed as a staple but can be difficult to keep alive.

Horn worms are a great soft bodied occasional treat.
 

Toasty

Member
Crickets, when gut-loaded and dusted with appropriate supplements, are excellent feeders for all ages of beardies, but the more variety of appropriate foods you make available, the more likely you are to provide a more balanced diet--this applies to live feeders as well as the greens/veggies part of a beardies diet also. There are tons of invertebrate feeder options out there, many of which are perfectly fine for babies and young beardies as long as they are appropriately sized. The earlier you expose them to a wide variety of foods, the better, because they are much less likely to be picky eaters in the future and become fixated on just one food item.

Dubia nymphs have already been mentioned, but there are a lot of other species of roaches that are regularly used as feeders that are good too, and personally, there are several I prefer over the dubia. For example, lateralis roaches can't climb smooth surfaces and don't fly, they reach maturity and are more prolific breeders than dubia. The are smaller and have softer bodies, making them easier to digest, which is a big plus for younger beardies in particular. Discoids and orange head roaches are other non-climbing/non-flying species that breed quickly and easily. I also have lobster roaches which CAN climb very well, meaning extra caution must be taken that there is an effective barrier in their bin to prevent escape, but again, they reproduce very quickly with minimal care. The lateralis are my personal favorite, but I still rotate them with a variety of other live prey.

There are also several types of worms that are fine for babies--you're pretty much going to need to stick to the soft-bodied worms. These would include phoenix worms (calci-worms/reptiworms), which again, have also been mentioned, waxworms as occasional treats since they are quite high in fat, and I'm honestly not sure of all the different sizes silkworms are available in, but if small ones can be obtained, they would also be an excellent addition to the diet.

Mealworms aren't appropriate for babies or even adult beardies due to them being known to cause impaction and also, the chitin to meat ratio being so high means they're not providing the nutrition that other feeder worms can. Once your beardie is big enough--the general rule is 14"+--superworms can be added to the diet safely. Hornworms are excellent feeder worms as well, but much too large for babies, you're also going to want to wait until yours is closer to adult size if you want to feed these.

As I'm sure you can tell, I'm personally not a fan of using just one type of live prey as a "staple" every day. I know that many owners do though, and have large, healthy beardies, so I'm definitely not trying to criticize. As I stated earlier, it just makes more sense to me that providing as much variety as possible will one, at least come a *little* closer to mimicking the type of diet they'd have in the wild (although we will never be able to really duplicate that in captivity of course), second, different feeders are all going to have different protein/fat/moisture/etc. contents as well as containing different levels and types of vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients specific just to them which reduces the chance of any nutritional deficiencies, and three, if your beardie only has one type of feeder prey that it will it, if for some reason that suddenly becomes unavailable to you for more than a very short period of time, it can be a pretty big problem if they won't eat anything else.

All the feeders I mentioned above are available to order in different amounts from various online vendors, and some sites even have different "sampler" packs of multiple feeders for you to try and see which ones you and your beardie prefer. My personal reccomendation would be to continue feeding crickets, but rotate them with at least one other type of feeder roach--lateralis roach nymphs would be a great option and tend to be less expensive than dubia also. The you can add some of the soft-bodied worms mentioned along with the crickets and roaches--reptiworms would be a good choice, as would silkworms. And don't forget to have salad available each day too, even if your baby shows zero interest. Again, the earlier you expose them to it, the more likely they will be to start eating it sooner and readily eat a wider variety. My 2 baby beardies eat very little of the salads I provide, but even a few nibbles a day is a great start.

Sorry for such a long post, so much information can be a bit overwhelming, but since you're here and posting, you obviously care very much about your new baby and good, accurate information can, sadly, be hard to find and takes a lot of digging through the "bad" info first. This forum is a wonderful resource though, along with having amazing members, so you're definitely in the right place :)
 
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