Edwtampa":1urhmtrb said:
i've got a tank that i'm not sure how many gallons it is.i do know it's two feet across the front,so two feet long.i measured because i wanted to see if it'd hold an adult beardie and when i realized he would be a little cramped,i decided to get my dad to build a new bigger enclosure,three foot and then some inches across.but in the tank i've got newspaper for substrate,a little shallow rock bowl from the petstore for water which i'm concidering taking out,a little wooden arch and a smooth rock i lay on it's flatside against the side of the glass so it won't fall,rock or move around.that's really it.i did put one of my well worn shirts in with the second beardie,and at the end i wanted him to have a toy so i put in one of those plastic easter eggs. for lighting i had just a..i guess a basking lamp bulb i got from the pet store when i had my first beardie so it's really old..but still seems to give out pretty good heat and was pretty bright.the bulb is kind of clear.
Your basking bulb should still be fine. But it is important to measure your temps so you know exactly what they are. They only way to do this accurately is with a temp gun or digital thermometer with a probe on a wire. The probe goes directly on the basking spot and this temp should be 100-110 - the higher part of the range for a baby and the lower part of that range for an adult.
Temps are very important. Too cold, and he won't be able to digest his food. Too hot, and he can, well...bake... so it's very important you get the right kind of thermometer.
It is also important to have a good quality
UVB bulb, and unfortunately there is only ONE good quality bulb on the market right now. The Reptisun 10.0 fluorescent tube (not the compact coil!). You should position this bulb so that your beardie can get within 6-8" while he is basking.
You didn't address diet, but this is also important and where many beginners make mistakes (especially if they listen to pet store advice). A baby needs live bugs 2-3 times a day, as many as he can eat in about 10-15 minutes each feeding. Use roaches, crickets, or soft-bodied worms like silkworms, hornworms, phoenix worms. Do not use mealworms because they have a hard exoskeleton that is hard for some babies to digest and can cause impaction. Make sure crickets are no bigger than the space between his eyes. If you end up getting an adult, he can eat bugs every other or even every 3rd day, but still needs a salad every day.
He should also have a salad of dark, leafy greens (never lettuce) and other fresh veggies available every day. Here is a good list to show you which veggies are good and which ones are not:
Beautiful Dragons Nutrition Chart
You also want to get some calcium WITH d3 supplements to dust his bugs for one feeding, 5x a week. You can also get multivitamins to dust one feeding 2x a week. IMO, if you feed a good variety of veggies from the Beautiful Dragons list and he eats those veggies, the multivites aren't really necessary, but the calcium is extremely important, so don't skip that. Or if he doesn't eat veggies, the multivites are important, too.
Newspaper is good as the substrate. You can keep that or use paper towels, non-adhesive shelf liner or tiles. Just don't switch to sand or any other substrate that has loose particles.
Overall, besides lack of calcium and UVB, I don't see anything alarming about your setup. Do you mind describing the circumstances under which your previous beardies died? How old were they? How long had you had them? I don't want to make you re-live those tragedies, but I do want to make sure you can give a new beardie a perfectly happy and healthy home.