You've got some major issues, the biggest one being that the Reptisun compact
UVB bulb is completely inadequate for a bearded dragon to begin with, and you have it on top of a mesh lid (or raised above it), which is blocking between 30-50% of the already too weak
UVB bulb. It's also a compact bulb with no reflector. For that bulb to emit any
UVB light to your beardie, it would have to be totally unobstructed by anything (inside the tank, under the mesh) and within about 4" of him when he basks. So you absolutely have to get an adequate
UVB light. There unfortunately aren't many options for bearded dragon UVB lights, even the ones labeled as such. For an adequately sized enclosure for a bearded dragon (40 gallon breeder is minimum) you want a long UVB tube, either 18" or 24" long with a reflector behind it so that the enclosure all gets some
UVB light. I already explained why it must be over the basking spot and right alongside the bright white basking bulb. The distance of the basking bulb from the basking spot doesn't matter at all except to get his temperatures within the correct ranges.
The only compact
UVB bulb adequate for a bearded dragon is a 26 watt one, like the Exo Terra 200, but honestly I would definitely go with a long tube for that size enclosure, which means you need a new UVB tube and long fixture for it. If you refuse to buy a long tube
UVB light and new fixture, then please go buy a 26 watt compact Exo Terra 200 ASAP, because your beardie has gotten no
UVB light at all since you've had him under that 13 watt bulb. You can take him outside if it's warm enough and sunny for an hour a day to get him natural UVB, but you really need to go buy an adequate
UVB light, it's the most important item you can buy for his health. If you keep him as you have him he will not grow correctly and become stunted, and no doubt already has started with bone density issues.
The Reptisun 10.0 (never use a 5.0 or lower) T8 or T5HO long UVB tubes or the Arcadia 12% tubes are the tubes appropriate for a bearded dragon that do not emit harmful light rays as some cheaper, Chinese tubes like All Living Things, Zilla, ReptileOne, and some others do. Pretty much all experienced owners and all breeders use either the Arcadia 12% T5 UVB tube or the Reptisun 10.0 T5HO tube. The weaker 10.0 T8 tube must be mounted under the mesh lid, within 6" of his basking spot to be effective, and be replaced every 6 months because they stop emitting any
UVB light at all at that age, even though they still turn on and light up. If you buy either the Reptisun 10.0 T5HO or the Arcadia 12%T5 tubes they are strong enough to sit on top of the mesh lid, but still must be within 11" of his basking spot to be effective. These T5 tubes must be replaced every 10 months to a year.
In addition, you should never, ever use any colored basking or heat bulbs for a bearded dragon, especially a red bulb during the day. They see in full color, and this is confusing him as far as his day/night cycles. He should only need a total of 2 lights on during the day, and none at night. The adequate UVB tube, and a bright white basking bulb that is a high enough wattage to keep all 3 temperature zones within the correct ranges. For a glass 40 gallon breeder tank, typically a single, 100 watt bright white basking bulb will do it. That's it. Please turn off the red bulb and get rid of it, it's doing him no good at all. You do not need to buy an expensive, specialty reptile basking bulb either, most of us use regular, household halogen indoor flood bulbs like you buy at Walmart or Lowes.
Also, please spend $10 and buy a digital probe thermometer at Petco or Petsmart, those cheap stick-on thermometers have 2 major problems: #1 they are typically off by around 20 degrees if you test them, and #2 more importantly, you have absolutely no way to measure his Basking Spot Surface Temperature, which is not only dangerous, but if it's not within the correct range he will not be able to digest his live insects. Combine this with the inadequate
UVB light, he's essentially not getting any
UVB light, he cannot properly digest his food, process any nutrition, absorb any vitamins or minerals, including his calcium, because without proper UVB he is not manufacturing and vitamin D3. So you must get a proper digital thermometer with a probe on a wire, or a temperature gun if you have one. This is not optional, as the proper
UVB light is not optional.
Basking Spot Surface Temperature: between 105-110 degrees for a baby or juvenile, between 98-103 for an adult...110 is the maximum temperature for his enclosure.
Hot Side Ambient: between 88-93 degrees
Cool Side Ambient: between 75-80 degrees
Needs no nighttime heat source at all typically. He needs it to be pitch black (no night lights on at all, they disrupt their sleep), and it needs to be considerably cooler at night, just like the desert is. As long as his enclosure stays at 65 degrees with lights out at night he's comfortable and needs no nighttime heat source.