Two Viv's for gecko's and Bearded Dragon. PICS!!

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blsmit

Member
Hello everyone, as the title states I'm looking to build two tanks that would stack.
I first wanted to say that this forum is amazing and full of SO much detail, and information. I am so pleased that it is available for me to learn from.
My girlfriend and I own three leopard geckos, and are the proud parents of a beautiful 6" leatherback Bearded Dragon. (names are: geckos: Chewy, Leia, Darth Vader. BD: Spock) (If I get answers Pictures will be posted! haha). As of right now the geckos (all female) live together in a 20 long, and the poor dragon is in a 10 gallon until his cage gets build.

**Note: since I have so many questions, my questions will be in italics**
I would like them to be 4'x2'x2'.
I really like using tile, because it is SUPER easy to clean, so I would prefer for that to be my substrate.

However I have a few questions about dimensions, the tiles are sold in 12x12, 6x6 and 4x4, but making the bottom 24"x48', from plywood is impossible (as far as I know). I figure that if using 3/4" plywood the back would need to be 50 1/4", which is terrible hard to do without wasting too much wood. So, I was thinking that i could knock off 6" from the length (48"-42") and use 4 6x6 tiles, and 6 12x12 tiles (instead of 8 12x12). Would this be enough room for a full grown male bearded dragon? Some height would be lost due to lighting.

I was informed on another forum that I should be using melamine, however I don't really understand why... its expensive and heavy.

I also have some questions about wood and stainer/sealant. What size plywood should I get, 1/2" or 3/4"? What stain and sealant should I get? **NOTE: The gecko's are going to be using an Under the Tank Heater sandwiched between the wood and the tile, I plan on using flewatt heat tape and aluminum tape.**

Also It would be extremely convenient if I could store roach, cricket, and mealworm bins under the two tanks. Probably would mean building another 4x2x2 cage with solid doors instead of plexiglass.

Speaking of plexiglass, whats the easiest method to attach doors onto these tanks?
these are all the questions I can think of right now, but I'm sure there will be some later on.

Thanks to all who reply,
blsmit
 

JeffSimpson

Juvie Member
blsmit":da63a said:
However I have a few questions about dimensions, the tiles are sold in 12x12, 6x6 and 4x4, but making the bottom 24"x48', from plywood is impossible (as far as I know). I figure that if using 3/4" plywood the back would need to be 50 1/4", which is terrible hard to do without wasting too much wood. So, I was thinking that i could knock off 6" from the length (48"-42") and use 4 6x6 tiles, and 6 12x12 tiles (instead of 8 12x12). Would this be enough room for a full grown male bearded dragon? Some height would be lost due to lighting.
Height isn't as important for BDs as other lizards, but there a couple of things to keep in mind. If you plan on using an MVB, you need to have significant more space than a fluorescent bulb. The shorter you make it, the less height you'll have for logs and rocks, etc, as you'll need to get a min distance from the heat bulb. Honestly, I think it would be better to cut the tile, than try and build around the stock sizes. Most stores will cut the tile for you if you don't want to buy a cutter, just figure out the measurements and bring them with you.
blsmit":da63a said:
I was informed on another forum that I should be using melamine, however I don't really understand why... its expensive and heavy.
I agree... but it' also doesn't really need to be finished / sealed (except for the ends), so it's easier in that respect.

blsmit":da63a said:
What size plywood should I get, 1/2" or 3/4"?
Probably more of a preference, but 3/4" is probably going to be recommended, especially if you are going to stack them.

blsmit":da63a said:
Speaking of plexiglass, whats the easiest method to attach doors onto these tanks?
Most people just make the the doors slide in plastic / metal runnners, but you could very easily (if you have a router or tablesaw) make a wood frame and make a groove in the middle for the glass to fit it. Then you'd just use hinges to attach.
 

Sqooky

Member
I used plexiglass sliding on the viv I'm making for the doors. If you go to HomeDepot in the section where they have all the metal for repairing gutters and such things they have someting called a C-Channel. I used this as a track for the sliding doors. They come in a couple different widths, but Just take the track over to the glass section with you and figure out which width you need for the glass you are planning to use. I went with plexi because there is no need to worry about it shattering and it's easy to put into and take out of the tracks.
 

blsmit

Member
Original Poster
JeffSimpson":e9c81 said:
If you plan on using an MVB, you need to have significant more space than a fluorescent bulb
I plan on using Flood lights, spot lights and Fluorscent bulbs for UVB. I think I will put a screen on top and use regular dome lighting for flood and spot lights and put the UVB on the inside.

JeffSimpson":e9c81 said:
Honestly, I think it would be better to cut the tile, than try and build around the stock sizes. Most stores will cut the tile for you if you don't want to buy a cutter, just figure out the measurements and bring them with you.
I would feel pretty terrible if I made them cut a 1/2" on a 4 12x12's or even less than 1/2", like 1/8".

JeffSimpson":e9c81 said:
I agree... but it' also doesn't really need to be finished / sealed (except for the ends), so it's easier in that respect.
So yay, or nay to the melamine wood. And if nay, what finish/ sealant should be used?

Sqooky":e9c81 said:
If you go to HomeDepot in the section where they have all the metal for repairing gutters and such things they have someting called a C-Channel
Found this at my local store, Will be using for sure! THANKS!!!!

As of right now my main concern is pricing, I'm not really looking to spend more than 200, but if I must, then I must.

Any other suggestions are more than welcome, and as always thanks for the quick replys.
blsmit
 

ThyDemise

Hatchling Member
not all tile is exactly 12x12. the tiles i use in half my cages are actually 11 1/2 x 11 1/2.

just my opinion, but mounting all the lights on the inside would be easier, neater and more efficient. flood light fixtures are cheap.
 

blsmit

Member
Original Poster
ThyDemise":31393 said:
just my opinion, but mounting all the lights on the inside would be easier, neater and more efficient. flood light fixtures are cheap.
This is a valid argument, do you think that attaching screen where most people have been using vents would look tacky? (I would use the vents but for some reason I can't find them for cheap, $5.00 each!!)

ThyDemise":31393 said:
not all tile is exactly 12x12. the tiles i use in half my cages are actually 11 1/2 x 11 1/2.
OHHH!! Well then, I guess my new plan is (whatever would I use) Ill cut the bottom piece to 48"x24" and put the sides and back on top, and adjust until the tile is square. Does this make sense, or would this not work?

Thanks for the helpful information ThyDemise,

Blsmit
 

ThyDemise

Hatchling Member
i think i get what youre saying, i dont see why that wouldnt work.

as for the vents, i dont know if they get much cheaper than that, i think the cheapest ive found them is 4 and change. i dont think screen would look that tacky in place of vents if they were framed in well but then that wouldnt really be saving any money from going with the vents.
 

blsmit

Member
Original Poster
You can disregard my previous comment, I found them at lowes for $1.97, cheaper than using screen at $7.00.

I'm still deeply concerned about size, would 42" be long enough for a male bearded dragon, or should I stick it out with 48" and hope for the best?

Also, If I use plywood, what paint/selant/ stain should be used?

Thanks once again for all replys, will be posting pictures very soon. He just shed his back this morning, and slowly working out the tail now.

Blsmit
 

Sqooky

Member
Glad you found the c-channel! I looked everywhere for the stanley sliding track that they reccommend for making a crossfire viv with no luck. The channel works great!
 

blsmit

Member
Original Poster
In order to save money on this build, I'm thinking of using melamine for the tops and bottoms. This way I only have to use 1 board. And using Plywood for the sides and back, it will be 3/4". Is there any reason for me to stain or prime or paint the plywood, as none of the animals will be spending and time on them?

I also saw on another forum that instead of using the sliding track , one person used Quarter Round molding, and nailed that down on both sides of the plexi glass. Does anyone see an issue with this? Its FAR cheaper at 4.40 per tank.

Thanks for all the replys,

Blsmit
 

ThyDemise

Hatchling Member
i dont understand why you would need plywood along with melamine? if you use the 4/2/2 measurements, and use sliding doors, top bottom and sides use up an entire 4x8 sheet with no scrap, and without needing extra wood. maybe i misunderstood your plans.

and ive seen plenty of people use that method instead of tracks with no problems
 

blsmit

Member
Original Poster
The only reason I'm using melamine at all is because of the Under Tank Heater for the geckos. I will be running 17" flexwatt 2' of the lower tank, under tile.

TOP
Geckos
Tile
Flexwatt
Melamine
BOTTOM

(did that help)
Other than that I really see no reason for me to use melamine. But since there is no alternative (from what i've found) I must use melamine with an UTH. Thus, in order to save money, if I purchase one sheet of melamine and one sheet of plywood, I can use melamine for the bottoms and tops of the tanks, and plywood for the sides and back.

HOWEVER, now I'm thinking that I can use plywood for the dragons cages, and melamine for the geckos. Are there any thoughts on this?

Thanks once again,
blsmit
 

ThyDemise

Hatchling Member
sorry, i was thinking only for one viv, not entire project, i see what youre saying now. the benefit of using mel is you dont need to paint or seal it. i use plywood on some of my cages but i wrap all three walls with styrofoam and grout so it doesnt matter. if you go bare plywood it will need to be sealed which depending on how much cheaper the ply is over mel might not end up a whole lot cheaper. and if you choose to stain/paint then theres another few bucks.

i see no problem using plywood at all, as long as its sealed. just figure out what you want to do with the cage (paint, stain etc.) and factor that into the price with the ply then compare it to mel
 

blsmit

Member
Original Poster
As far as I know water based selant is about $8.00, and the wood is $18. $26 is less than $34. Does anyone know if it is possible to have an UTH on the waterbased selant?

Thanks once again,
blsmit
Oh and some pictures will be up shortly.
 

Sqooky

Member
The only issue I could see with using Melamime for the top and bottom and plywood for the sides is that the melamime is a lot heavier than the plywood. I would be concerned about the ability of the plywood to hold up the melamime on top. And possibly its stability.
 
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