our bearded dragon is lathargic and isn't eating much

[diamc]

Hello again, since the UVB's don't really get hot, there is no concern about where it is mounted. But, the main thing to consider is that it needs to be right alongside the basking bulb AND no closer than 10" from him. You may need to raise the basking area by putting bricks or something else underneath the log. That size tank is fine, not too large at all. Once you get the temperatures all set with an accurate thermometer, it will make a big difference, I'm sure. You may also find that you need a lower wattage bulb on the cool side in order for that temp to be around 80 degrees. I have a 120 gallon tank and had to do a little adjusting but now have a basking temp of 103 and cool side of 79.8.

I don't remember you saying how long you had him in your care. If you have had him less than 2 wks, you might not want to get a fecal check done because relocation stress can raise the coccidia level that should go back down on its own once he is acclimated to his new surroundings. It probably would be a good idea for a vet visit though for an exam. Perhaps his calcium level is low which the vet could give an injection for or he may need an injection of B12 or even some IV fluids if he is dehydrated. How often are you bathing him and do his eyes look sunken?

Another thing that you could use is Repta-Aid which has helped a lot of unhealthy beardies. You can read about it here: http://www.flukerfarms.com/emergencycriticalcare.aspx You could actually give that along with the babyfood that I mentioned previously.

How is this beardies color, is his beard and/or tail darker than the rest of him? Does he bask on his own at all? Does he just lay in his tank with his head down in just one position?

 

[vanda]

I wonder if the vet here will even know what to look for :?:
The odd time he will bask on his own since replacing the red bulb with the regular one. But YES, most of the time he will find a cooler spot and lay with his head down.. honestly sometimes I have to literally lift his little chin with my finger to see if he's alive. He'll then open his eyes, but closes them again.
Yes, his tail, especially the end is darker than the rest of him, and his back feet, as I mentioned before! If I knew how to post pics like you did with the temp probe thing, i could show you.
His color seems light, but I'm not entirely sure how it's suppose to be.
We basically adopted him because she couldn't look after him anymore, so we didn't exactly do research, but I'm trying my dardest to figure him out now.
I don't really know that his eyes are sunken in or not, but there isn't alot of life in them. We have only had him in our care for 1 week. And a month or two ago he under went major surgury to fix a impaction (?), although when I called the clinic this week, they said he had a prolapse. The little fella was trying to push out his bowel, and parts of a fake plant that he ate in his cage.( of which he has none now)
We didn't have him when he first came home from that but apparantly he had to be hand fed. We have tried , but he won't eat and has been offered everything from greens, to crickets, to superworms, to chicken...
The vet was surprised that he was even still alive when he made a call to check up on him.
He is a mystery.

 

[diamc]

Ok, so if he is basking for a few minutes and then goes to the cool side to lay down, then it sounds like the basking area is too hot. Please fill me in on the basking bulb you're using now, what is the wattage, is it a household bulb, halogen, flood light? Rather than overheat, they will move to the cool side to try to thermo-regulate but if the cool side is actually TOO cool, then they will act/be lethargic and sleep almost continuously. That will also affect their appetite and is also why an accurate thermometer is essential. You really do need to find out what the temps are because if they are way off, he will continue to not do well. Any idea when you can get either a temperature gun or a digital with probe like the one I posted a picture of? If he is too cold in the cool side of the tank, that will also make him lighter in color.

How often are you bathing him or offering his drinks by mouth? It's possible that he's dehydrated too. Did you pick up the babyfood and Repta-Aid as I suggested? Have you gotten anything in him today at all?

This will help you with posting pictures. viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37103

 

[vickson420]

Hi
I just got done reading the thread and I just wanted to pop on and emphasize just ow important lighting and proper heating are in regards to beardies.I think its very important to get that digital probe thermometer.There really is no way to accurately measure the temps without one.Proper temps can make the difference between a healthy and active beardie and one that is lethargic and dehydrated not to mention impaction.Please do take Diamc's advice on this as well as the other tips she has given you.
I personally am not a fan of the reptiglo 10.0 at all while it can be used in conjunction with a bright white basking bulb the fact that it has to be so far away to maintain safety is a serious issue for me considering that the uv exposure at that distance is seriously limited.When the time comes to change out the bulb I recommend the reptisun 10.0 linear bulb or even better a Mercury Vapor Bulb.

 

[vanda]

Today is sunday on this piddley little island in canada AND we have NO pet stores in our town so I didn't get the vitamins or babyfood.
But when I take his sample to the city tomorrow, I will get some..IF they even carry such a thing!
The basking bulb we have now is 100watt and it's about 10- 12 inches away from his basking rock.
Unfortunalty we haven't been able to get ANYTHING into him since wednesday...as far as we know, unless he has been sneaking some greens when we aren't looking.
We have bathed him twice in the last 4 days, but I dripple a few drops of bottled water ( because our tap water has chlorine) over his snout every day.. he seems to try to move his mouth,but it's like he can't.
Even on the day that he did eat the crickets, it was like he couldn't get his tongue out far enough.
I won't take pics of him right now because we have picked at him enough and he has crawled up close to his UV light but tomorrow I will take some pic and try to post them. Someone mentioned that the reptiglo has to be far away for saftey? why is that? Because he has gotten himself up as close to it as he can get right now.
Thanks for all of your help, we really do appreciate it.

 

[vickson420]

Hi
Yes the reptiglo 10.0 emits some pretty harsh lighting which can damage their eyes if closer then 10 inches however the 10 inch distance doesnt give them great uvb exposure.I personally wouldnt use them especially with an ailing beardie.If at all possible switch it out for a Reptisun 10.0.
As I said you really need to get a digital probe thermometer as well to get those temps right otherwise it will be very difficult to get him well especially if he is dehydrated.I would up the baths to daily at the minimum and try to get some fluids in him if at all possible.As soon as you get the babyfood I would begin those the slurries also.

Vicky

 

[diamc]

Did you move the Repti-Glo from 20" to 10" and is it placed alongside the basking bulb? Since it had been that far away all this time, he knows he needs to get some UV so he is trying to absorb the UV rays. He wouldn't be aware that it would harm him if closer than 10" though. And, if there are only 2 bulbs in his tank and the basking bulb is too hot, he's going to go under the cooler light which in this case is the UVB. Is he wrapped in anything to help keep him warm? You could even use a rice sock tonight, take a sock, fill it with uncooked rice, tie a knot in the end and microwave for about 20 seconds. Test the temp by the side of your cheek, should feel quite warm but not hot. Wrap the rice sock up in something small like a dishtowel, then wrap him and the sock up together. That will hold the heat for a few hrs and can be reheated as often as necessary. He is probably not able to catch the crickets and drink the water that you dribble on his nose because he is too weak from not eating and is too cold where he is laying.

If I had known that it was impossible to get the babyfood, etc over the weekend, I would have asked you if you had a needle-less syringe or plastic medicine dropper and would have helped instruct you on force-feeding with blending greens, crickets, pedialyte or gatorade in a blender to make a slurry that would have possibly given him a boost, but I wasn't aware that you weren't able to get into a town that had the babyfood, etc. Hopefully tomorrow you can get what was suggested along with the thermometer so that he can get some nourishment & have the temps that he needs to improve. I hope you can get him some help tomorrow. Please keep us updated on him, I hope he is strong enough to get through this.

 

[Drache613]

Hello,

Yes, definitely get a digital probe to measure the temps he would do alot better for you I believe. Also, the Reptiglo 10 could also be causing some problems as well. Overheating happens quite fast without us even realizing that it is happening unless we are paying
close attention.
Unfortunately, that bulb emits some low wavelength UVB which has been known to cause some serious eye problems as well as health complications too. Please make sure that he does not get any closer than 10 inches from that particular light, ok? Also, make sure that the basking light is directly beside the UVB light as well.
You are going to have to get some food into him, if it has been that long since he has eaten. As suggested, some squash babyfood, chicken or turkey babyfood are usually the most widely used foods, along with some calcium (just a small pinch) in with it as well.
Or, as already suggested, try blending up the crickets & greens for him. He just needs some food to help with his strength right now.

Please let us know how he is doing.

Tracie

 

[vickson420]

Any updates?How is your beardie?Did you get the items you need yet?

 

[diamc]

Are there any updates for us?