Newbie with a million questions, this one is re: enclosure

[Shichemell]

My second question has 2 parts, really (I probably don't have a million questions after all)

We are brand new to the beardie owner thing (though I've had snakes and a gecko in the past) so I'm trying to make sure I get everything set up right to keep him healthy. Volcano is just a baby, 13g and 8 inches long.

Here's what we've got:
glass reptile enclosure 36" x 18" and 18" high
UVB tube (reptisun 10) mounted inside
100W heat lamp shining down from the top, and I've added a regular old incandescent lamp in an effort to get the heat up.
Cool side of the cage hovers around 29-30C (84.2F - 86F) depending on the day's temps
Basking spot sits between 34.5 and 36C (94.1F and 96.8F)
The humidity is at 40%, but our vet recommends between 45 and 50%

So here are my questions:
1)What is the best way to raise the temperature in your opinion, is it better to buy a second 100W heater, or scrap the 100W and change to a 150W (cheaper is better, but I want our beardie to be healthy)
2)The internet is full of conflicting information (of course) so in your opinion, do I need to raise the humidity at all? I should add, he gets a bath everyday, and he drinks water from our fingers and when we drip it onto his nose.

Sorry for the ramble, and TIA for any help!!

 

[ju5t1n]

Lets see your cool side seems like a good stable temperature.
Is their a way to raise his basking spot closer to the heat lamp? This seems like the best if you can.
A few other things you can do is buy the 150watt bulb and put a "Lamp Dimmer" on it to adjust the temperatures. You can also get a bulb that is more of a beam of light/heat rather then one that just puts light/heat out everywhere.

I'd say don't try to raise the humidity. Everyday the humidity will change outside and hours of the day. Here in Southern California I don't have anything that will add humidity in the beardies vivarium. Mine also get baths usually 3-4 times a week.

My 2 cents.

-Justin

 

[Thades22]

I may get hounded for saying this but I think your temps are fine. The cool side seems a little warm to me by only a few degrees. I will explain below with pictures

This is the book I use:


Here are the authors. Experts from all over who have a plethora of experience regarding reptiles, including lighting, heating, diseases, etc. Combined they have many decades of experience, as well as the education. I didn't know this until about 5 minutes ago while I was doing research but Roger Klingenberg plays a key role within the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians and just so happens to be the head vet at a clinic here in my own town! Had no idea.... lol


Section I'm referring to:


Here I point out what the temperatures should be.




A very successful and well known (in my area) reptile shop also tells me the same thing when it comes to temperatures and lighting. Temps that are 100 - 110F are not necessarily bad, however I wouldn't keep them that high for very long. (no more than an hour at 110F). Me personally, I have my hot side at around 95 and the very top of the basking site is at 100. I have noticed that if its any hotter my dragon will constantly hide in his cave or stay on the cool side. My cool side is roughly 82*F. At the temps I have my dragon is very active.

Hope this helps.

 

[Soulwind]

I'm really rather surprised that it's taking you 2 lamps (100w and "regular" whatever that is)
to achieve 94.1F to 96.8F on the basking spot.

Is it really cold where you are? Do you have the lamp(s) really high up away from the tank?

I run an 80 watt spotlight bulb and have to either dim it or move it further away from the tank
just to keep temps from getting too high. {Missouri US - in an air conditioned environment}

 

[Shichemell]

Lets see your cool side seems like a good stable temperature.
Is their a way to raise his basking spot closer to the heat lamp?

...

I can't move his basking spot up, as that would be too close to the UV tube, however, I wonder if it would be safe to put the heat lamp directly on the mesh lid? The screen is metal, but the frame is plastic.

I may get hounded for saying this but I think your temps are fine. The cool side seems a little warm to me by only a few degrees.

...

Hope this helps.

Thanks so much for all of that!! That's fantastic information! I thought, though, that babies required a hotter basking spot than adults?

I'm really rather surprised that it's taking you 2 lamps (100w and "regular" whatever that is)
to achieve 94.1F to 96.8F on the basking spot.

Is it really cold where you are? Do you have the lamp(s) really high up away from the tank?

I run an 80 watt spotlight bulb and have to either dim it or move it further away from the tank
just to keep temps from getting too high. {Missouri US - in an air conditioned environment}

By "regular" I just meant a reading lamp with a 60W incandescent bulb in it. I do have the heat lamp clamped on to the enclosure, so it sits about 3 inches above the screen at the top. Can you tell me if it would be safe to simply put the heat lamp directly on the lid?

Also, I live in Edmonton, AB, so not too cold at the moment (high 20's C [low-ish 80's in F, I think] inside the house most of time), but I suspect I will have to invest in a CHE this winter.

 

[Thades22]

Thanks so much for all of that!! That's fantastic information! I thought, though, that babies required a hotter basking spot than adults?

You know, I have heard that too. I think the reasoning behind keeping the sites hotter for juveniles is to help with their metabolism especially since they are eating a lot more frequently. However according to the book, its the same throughout.

In Chapter 1 there is a section that talks about how fast they grow:

"In one experiment we raised a group of baby bearded dragons indoors using basking lights (basking sites of 90- 95*F) and twist Vita-Lite fluorescent full-spectrum bulbs within 6 inches of the dragons. We offered insects to the dragons three times a day and had a variety of plant matter available all day. Lights were on 16 hours daily. Hatchlings averaged just under 4 inches in length when the experiment started. After fourteen weeks the largest specimen had reached a total length just over 14 inches. The smallest was 11 inches. As a general guide, under this kind of intensive rearing regimen, growth will average 2 to 2 1/2 inches a month for the first 6 months, and sexual maturity can be reached as early as five to 6 months of age. Growth rate begins to taper after about 6 months."

Chapter 7 talks about Bearded Dragon Behaviors. In the section about mutilation/cannibalism, it says there are three factors that were identified as contributing to mutilation. One of them is high temperatures which they have as (90 - 105). That tells me that if they are not getting enough food and water but have been on the hot side for awhile, or if the temps are too hot, up to that 105 range, the will get irritable and/or switch into survival mode to deal with the heat. Either way, in the heating/lighting sections it only talks about the temps in the pictures above, among other places throughout the book. As far as I can tell as of now (I don't have it completely memorized haha) there is no difference between adult and juvenile dragons as far as temps go, Except possibly keeping it a couple degrees cooler. Ive heard that too from the reptile shop I mentioned above.