My beardie is a pig and vomitted.

[angelpaws]

So I normally feed my 8 inch baby 10 crix twice a day. Hes looking great but always acts hungry. Ive read somewhere that you should allow your beardie to eat as much as he want in 10- 15 min? So one day, I acidentally dropped a few more crix in the duster for his pm feeding and thought he'll stop eating when hes full. Anyway...he ate a ton and boy did he look full! His tummy was huge and he even slowed down alittle - although he still tried to eat that last crix! I let him bask for an hour and a half but it was night time so I put him to sleep. I was concerned about his basking/digesting time. Next morning, there were 3 balls of undigedted crix

So...he looked ok. I let him soak while I cleaned up the tank and I dropped in 5 crix instead of the usual 10. As I expected he showed interest but didnt go after them. He was still alert so I wasnt worried yet. Later this evening, he began to hunt again - I didnt drop in any more, I just let him eat from the 5 that were in the tank.

I feel like hes simply overfed himself and that Ill have to go back to being a watchful mommy and not permit him to stuff his face but since Im a newbie, Id like for some reassurance that the way Im thinking is good and Zorro will be fine (this stuff happens- an upset stomach from overeating). Are there any thoughts / recommendations?

Thanks all

 

[Kaiser]

Hello there. A young bearded dragon like that should be fed as much as he will eat within 10 to 15 minutes, and it is recommended that you provide at least two hours of basking for proper digestion.

As for this particular instance, the vomiting may have been a result of him simply eating too quickly (it happens and isn't something serious, unless it's on a regular basis). I would recommending feeding him the crickets one or two at a time as opposed to dumping them all in (if you have the time). This will allow him time to properly chew his food, as well as give him a one-on-one chase. It also could have been because he was simply not used to eating so much at one time; however, he should be fed as much as he will eat within 10 to 15 minutes, two or three times a day.

Otherwise, yes, it's a good idea to watch over him and give him some time between crickets to chew his food and not necessarily "stuff his face," ha ha; however, he should still be getting enough until he is satisfied.

It sounds like you've done your research! But I just wanted to check up with you and make sure that you are not leaving the crickets inside the terrarium with your bearded dragon for extended period of times (particularly overnight); crickets can bite, so be careful! Just making sure. Hope Zorro feels better soon!

 

[angelpaws]

Thank you for posting! Zorro is doing well - I think he's feeling leary of the crix now - he doesnt charge after them like he used to (reminds me of how people feel after drinking too much and then smelling liquor the next morning - lol). He actually ate alot of his salad today, so I figure thats not a bad thing.

I did read about not allowing crix to "stay over" but I cant imagine tearing the cage up every night to remove them. Do you think it Is still ok if one or two remain? He usually scarfs up most of the crix before bedtime but they occassionally find hiding spots. I have to be especially careful that the carpet doesnt "bow" in spots. Once I found a ton of them when cleaning! I was mortified! He has a branch he likes to climb up on when he sleeps (which is also the hottest point of the basking spot). Any other time during the day he avoids this spot - hanging out in the middle of the branch. What do you think? I wish i could attach a pic to show the set up.

 

[Kaiser]

No problem. Glad to hear that he is doing well. Just keep an eye on him and make sure he eats well. Bearded dragons can be picky eaters, so it might just be a sign that he wants to try something different (like the salad, for example).

That's another good reason to feed your bearded dragon only one or two crickets at a time instead of dumping them all in during feeding. By putting in only one or two at a time, you can keep better track of the crickets. Put one in, and if he eats it, put in another, and so on. When you put one in and he stops going after it, you know he's done, and you can remove the single cricket.

If you don't have time for that, another commonly recommended method is to remove your bearded dragon from its terrarium during feeding and place him in another container (like a reasonably sized plastic bin), and feed him there. That way, you can dump the crickets in (although, again, one by one would be better if he eats too fast) without worrying about them being in the terrarium. Once he's had his fill, just place him back in the terrarium, and dump the crickets back into wherever you are keeping them.

I used to feed my bearded dragon crickets in the terrarium when I first started out as well, so I know how much of a hassle it is (I used carpet too, so believe me, I had a hard time getting them all out as well...). I resorted to removing all of the items from his terrarium every feeding, which you could do too, I guess. But I would recommend the other two options above first, especially if you have a separate container or small terrarium, ha ha...

As for the basking, are you keeping track of the temperatures within your terrarium with thermometers? If so, what are the temperatures (particular at the basking spot, both at the top and middle of the branch)? Also, if so, what kind of thermometers (e.g., stick-on dial, digital, infrared, etc.) are you using? He may be avoiding the top of the branch if it's too hot, and may just prefer the middle of the branch.

You can attach a picture if you upload an image onto a image storage site such as http://tinypic.com/ or http://photobucket.com/, and then use the img or URL codes provided in the text editor.

 

[angelpaws]

Heres a close-up of my baby! I hope it comes thru!

Heres a full pic showing alittle of his tank.

I do have a thermometer. I have the cheap dial ones. It registers at 100 and its just adjacent to the top of the branch. I figure it may be too hot but i he frequently moves about the tank and rests in different spots throughout the day. He seems comfortable - thank goodness! Where I live it can get pretty cold so I want to be sure he has that flexibility. Initially, according to what Ive learned here, I didnt have the temp high enough. It was at 90. He never turns black or anything and Ive caught him finally closing his eyes and raising his head up - looks like he's enjoying it, haha.

I like the idea of droping in a few crix at a time. Its funny as I really cant touch them - typical girl when it comes to bugs I guess - but then I can be sure he eats them all. Thing is my work schedule is somewhat haphazard - sometimes Im off to work so early - the sun has barely come up and I feel like Im forcing him awake. Theres no one else to feed him. Can a few crickets be in the cage with him during the day at least?

 

[Kaiser]

Wow, he is a real stunner! Very beautiful, and he looks happy and well. The terrarium is beautiful as well; I like the rock wall in the back. He'll probably need a bigger one in the future, but this looks nice for now. :]

Unfortunately, the dial thermometers are not particularly accurate and can vary up to ten degrees Fahrenheit in either direction (though it may vary on the thermometer; I have four digital thermometers and two dial thermometers--a lot, I know--and all of the digital thermometers seem to read the same, while one of the dial thermometers reads anywhere from 2 to 3 degrees off, and the other reads anywhere from 5 to 10 degrees off...). I would highly suggest getting a digital thermometer with a temperature probe just to make sure your temperatures are correct. This is one of the most recommended digital thermometers from the people on this site: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acu-Rite-Indoor-Outdoor-Thermometer/896347. It's not too expensive, and you can most likely find it at a local Walmart if you want to avoid shipping costs. Also, it basically acts as two thermometers, as the base reads a temperature, and the probe on the string can read another temperature up to ten feet away. So it's a pretty good deal.

Just a suggestion if you're interested.

Also, the problem with the dial thermometers (particularly when they're hung against the wall like that) is that the thermometer is reading the ambient temperature (basically, the environmental/air temperature), not necessarily close to the surface of the basking area. It may be too hot or not hot enough on the surface of the branch at the top, which may account for why he avoids it.

Otherwise, if the temperatures are accurate, he seems to be healthy and happy. They'll regulate their temperatures by moving around to different areas with different temperatures, so it sounds like he's doing well at that. If he's a baby, basking area should be around 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit; warm side (the side where the basking area is) should be from 90 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit; and the cool side should be somewhere around 85 degrees Fahrenheit. So as long as you have those three areas down, and feel confident about the accuracy of the temperatures, he should be just fine.

Ha ha, that's fine. What's funny is that I have a real interest in bugs and insects, but for some reason, I am grossed out by crickets. Probably one of the only bugs I'm scared of, ha ha. One of the reasons why I switched away from them. Anyway, although you typically don't want to leave crickets in the terrarium over extended periods of time, it's safer when it's during the daytime (as opposed to leaving them in over night), as your bearded dragon will be awake to be able to react to any bites or annoyances. Just be sure you check the terrarium before calling it a night for any stragglers. Also, you can reduce any chances of hungry nibbles from crickets by providing a salad in the terrarium (the crickets will be attracted to the salad and eat that instead if they're hungry). Plus, your bearded dragon can eat that too if he's interested.

Otherwise, if you're up for suggestions, perhaps look into a worm/larvae live feeder (e.g., silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, hornworms, etc.), as those can be left in a small container or dish throughout the day for your bearded dragon without worry of harm to your bearded dragon or worrying about catching them afterwards.

Sorry for the long post. They always come out longer than I expect them to, ha ha...

 

[angelpaws]

Thank you! Thank you!
You have been a wealth of information! I appreciate the time you've invested in me and my boy/piglet :lol:

Im so glad you helped with the pics too - Ive been dying to show him off! He is a cute little bugger! Hes already looking so serious as opposed to when he was smaller. Its too bad they cant stay this little :lol: .

Today he looks back to normal, jumping around and seeking the crickets out. I will invest in the therm. you suggested. Seems silly to skimp on that when I've put out the moey I have already in the tank. The rock wall I bought because when I first got him, he was frantically scratching at the back wall. I bought a glass liner but then he began leaping into the the glass! I was afraid he was gonna hurt himself. The wall has been an incredible help, unfortunatley it takes up about 1 inch of space from the back reducing the size of the cage even more.

I cant wait to get him a new tank. Ive read its not a great idea to go to big too soon as the crickets will have an advantage and hide from him. I'll admit I also hate the idea of getting tank after tank and having 3-4 tanks on hand at the end of it all. Id like to just get one massive tank that will be suitable for him overall. I suspect that I wont be able to do this tho. What size cage do you recommend? Im sorry to be a pest but you sound like someone who knows what theyre doing and recognizes the balance of life's expenses haha! The tank in my pic is your average 10 gallon. The one I want to buy is huge. I think its 42 something inches (from exo-terra) extra large. Will he get lost in something so big? When will that be ok? Maybe let him live there and use the to gallon as a feeding tank, like you suggested?

 

[Kaiser]

You're welcome. And no problem; I've been taking care of my own bearded dragon for almost two years now, and from the very start, I did a lot of research here at this site. So if anything, it's the people on this site who taught me everything. Great resource here if you ever have questions or concerns.

And yes, glad I could help with the pictures. He is very cute. I got mine when he was just a month old; he was a little bigger than my index finger then. They're really cute when they're little, but they're just as cute (in a different way, maybe) when they're bigger. :]

And that's good to hear that he's back to his old self again. And yes, it's pretty expensive getting everything together when you first start out; but once you have everything, it's just a matter of a couple of bulbs here and there every six months or so. Oh, and food. Which gets to be pretty expensive, but things work out in the end hopefully.

As for the scratching at the walls, that's pretty common with energetic bearded dragons. Most of the time, it's because they can see their reflections in the glass or something interesting through the glass. It sounds like the rock wall has been a good solution, but if you're looking for something that doesn't take up too much space, you can try using reptile habitat backgrounds/wallpapers instead. You can buy them in the store (or just make/print your own), but they're pretty tacky sometimes. The rock wall looks really nice, and as long as you get a larger terrarium at one point, he should probably be fine.

Ah, that's a common predicament; the problem of having to purchase larger and larger sized terrariums over time, that is. It's true that it is not a good idea for a baby to be chasing around crickets in a large terrarium; makes catching them more difficult, and you lose track of the crickets. What you could do is feed him in a separate, smaller container/terrarium like you noted. But another problem some people have, outside of feeding, is that the space of a larger terrarium can (but not always) be intimidating for a small bearded dragon.

Fortunately, there is a solution! If you would like to simply purchase a terrarium that you could use for when he would be of max size, that would be just fine. You would simply have to invest in a terrarium divider (or I'm sure you could find something that could act similarly around the house, as long as you make sure it can't be knocked over), so that you could section off parts of the tank until he grows bigger and bigger. Here's an example of a terrarium divider: (http://www.herpsupplies.com/images///APPTDSU/TDTankDividerIllus.jpg)

Another issue you may come across if you should decide to use a larger terrarium is that generally it takes more heat (and a longer UVB bulb) to fill the terrarium. You may have to invest in some new lighting fixtures and/or bulbs, and will definitely have to spend some time trying out different bulbs and testing temperatures. Even if you use a terrarium divider, you may still need to take this into account.

The minimum-sized terrarium for an adult bearded dragon is a 40 gallon terrarium (breeder), which is 36" x 18" x 16". The recommended size is a 40 gallon (long) or a 55 gallon terrarium, which are 48" x 12" x 16" and 48" x 13" x 21", respectively (the significant difference between the breeder and these two latter terrariums is the length; between the two latter terrariums, it's really just an inch of width and a few inches of height, which isn't too much of a difference--what's important is the length). So a 42 inch terrarium seems to be right between the 40 gallon (breeder) and the long/55 gallon terrarium, which is fine. 40 gallon (long) and 55 gallon terrariums may seem difficult to find in corporate pet stores (at least around my area), so you may have to look online or at smaller, local businesses.

As for when he's ready for a bigger size, it's really kind of just knowing when. I've heard some bearded dragons are intimidated by large terrariums, while some get along just fine in them. I guess it depends on the bearded dragon. He should have enough room in his terrarium to turn around without trouble and to move around. I would think you would want a length of a terrarium to be around at least twice the bearded dragon's length (from head to tail).

And no worries, I don't mind answering questions or making suggestions. If it helps. :]

 

[angelpaws]

Thanks Kaiser -

you're feedback has assured me that Im doing the right things and being a good mommy.

I LOVE the idea of the divider - I didnt even think of that!

Please keep posting and advising newbies - after all, we all just want our babies to be strong and happy. Someday when Im confident enough with my beardie, I will remember your advice and share it with other newbies as well!

Hope to bump into you again!
Zorro and his lady in waiting...lol

 

[Kaiser]

You are most welcome. As with anyone starting out, it's always good to get some reassurance to make sure you've gotten and done everything that you've needed to take care of your bearded dragon. If you haven't already, I would recommend running through your set-up (particularly lighting) with others, just to make sure, especially if you consider getting a larger terrarium and new lights to go with it (might save you time and money to get things all right from the start).

Otherwise, glad to have been of help. Hope to bump into you again some time as well. Best wishes to you and Zorro. Cheers. :]