For a baby bearded dragon you will want basking temps around 105F. 95F is a tad low for a baby, but good for an adult. I keep my basking temps around 108F in both enclosures with a gradient and they both use it. After eating they'll bask at 108F, when just chilling they hang out around 104F or cooler.
I also use no heat source at night.
My house heat is set to kick in if it drops below 68F, but it's summer so it's usually lower 70's in my house at night, or even higher (super hot summer)
A baby beardie can and should eat as much as they want for 15 mins, or until interest is lost, at least twice a day. In terms of appropriately sized crickets, this may be up to 60 per day, so assuming you are only doing 2 feedings a day this is 420 crickets a week, or just under 1700 a month. You will want to buy in bulk
It's worth noting that people tend to overfeed their babies, so I am again reiterating "up to 60" and by no means is this a required amount.
It's worth taking into consideration other main staple feeders, like dubia roaches. Crickets are a lot of "fillers", where as dubia roaches are more meat. What this means is a dragon will get full faster on dubia roaches, taking you down to maybe 30-40 roaches per day opposed to 60 crickets, but dubia also tend to be a bit pricier, but also live longer and are a more complete feeder than stinky crickets.
It's great to also offer a variety of feeders, but please do not buy into the mealworm hype at petstores. Owning two dragons, a chameleon, and a pacman frog, all across the board people state mealies are not worth it for any of those animals. They are an impaction risk and generally not nutritious enough to make the gamble worth it.
Please also do not feed supers until your dragon is older and at least 16" in length. They are too hard on baby and juvie dragon bellies.
Black soldier fly larvae, small hornworms, silkworms, and
occasional waxworms are nice to add into the mix as well.