How should I start?

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Interrobang

New member
Hello all! For the past few weeks I have been researching bearded dragons.

In the past I have had many many pet rats, anoles, fire-bellied toads, and more.

My parents have heard back from the landlord and it is confirmed, I can have one. My next step is to make sure I can care for a dragon by making a list of things I need such as lights and heating and then make a calendar to check off so I know my beardie is healthy.

However, I am wary that a bearded dragon might not be right for me. I will have 6-6:30am and past 3:00pm to interact with my bearded dragon, my parents know of the cost issues, and we know of an exotic pet vet. However, getting live crickets might be a problem depending on how often we need to buy them.

I already know to have big tanks, more than one dragon becomes problems, the benefits of different tanks, caring for them can get expensive, buy from a breeder, little dragons eat more crickets than veggies, and they live for 10-15 years if healthy.

So to summarize; I would like multiple care sheets for what vitamins, etc. I will need, development signs, how often a cage should be cleaned, and how to get things that I will need constantly such as food. I know there are care sheets but I also believe I could benefit by hearing from other people. Thank you for your time!
 

disturb3d0n3

Juvie Member
Hello there! I understand you're hesitant now but I promise once you interact with your dragon for the first time you'll fall in love! That will only grow as they grow :)

I'm going to use some of the info I've given others in the past although it definitely seems like you already know most of it :)

You need a reptisun 10.0 tube mounted inside the tank. Also a basking light (a 40-60w house bulb will work) make sure both are on the same side of the cage. Heat pads get to really high temps and can burn him if he's directly on it.. I bought one for my dragon as well and solved that by using the stackable rocks. There's 6 layers of rock between my dragon and the pad the heat will radiate up through but not burn her. As for substrate you can get the carpet but as you see if you don't clean it it starts to smell :/ newspaper, shipping paper, or ceramic tile all works. You'll also need a digital thermometer on both sides to monitor temps. You'll prob want to buy a lamp timer to plug your lights in because he needs 12-14 hours of UV my schedule is. 6am-8pm but you can do whatever works best for your schedule. (Which will work for you, you can feed your dragon by 6:30 if not a little before and then feed him or her again after you get home from school. (Assuming you're going to get a juvenile or younger)

A 40gal is the minimum for an adult but most go with 55gal or custom build enclosures. If he's still under 12 inches you can get by with a 20gal.

Also food, still depends on size.. If he's a juvenile he's going to need a lot of bugs! Along with salad. It's usually 80-20 bugs vs salad ratio then when they become adults it reverses to 80 salad-20 bugs. Absolutely do not feed him bugs caught from outside. Some can kill him (lightning bugs) and others are more than likely covered in pesticides. Depending on what live bug you choose ie crickets, reptiworms/Phoenix worms , silk worms, horn worms, dubia roaches.. Those are the most suitable staple feeders.. Superworms can only be fed if your Beardie is longer than 18 inches! Also treat them like a treat. You're more than likely going to buy online because buying from a pet store gets expensive super fast! We can direct you to reputable sellers. Feeders also need to be smaller than the space between his eyes. Soft bodied worms are the only feeder that is an exception. You're also going to need to dust the feeders 5x a week with calcium with d3 on the first feeding and use a multivitamin for the other two days. If he's still under a year old he will need fed at least two to three times a day. Feed him as much as he 'll eat in a 15 minute period then remove feeders (if it's crickets, worms and roaches can be left in a bowl. Give salad with first feeding and leave in all day.

Salad- mustard, turnip, collard greens with squashes and some fruits are find but stay away from citrus... Heres a great guide to help you http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html

Bearded dragons are desert reptiles so his temps need to be 75-80 on cool side and 95-105 on basking spot. His basking spot needs to be 6-8 inches from his lamp. Beardies love climbing so the stackable rocks and or driftwood works great! (Be sure to bleach the wood and let it soak and dry before giving to your dragon. Also if you find wood outside be sure to bake it in the oven for an hour or two and then treat it with bleach to ensure no parasites are nested in it) back to Beardies being desert, with that being said you do not need to mist your dragon or give him a water dish. In fact high humidity causes respiratory problems. To hydrate him you will need to give your Beardie baths every other day or so . Definitely more when he's shedding. If he's big enough you can use the sink or bathtub, I personally use a sterilite container.. Make sure the water is like warm and doesn't go over his head.


You have the option of adopting an older dragon to cut down on the food costs but babies and juveniles are definitely lots if fun to watch grow.

As far as getting feeders it's best to do it online.. I order 1000 crickets a time from http://www.armstrongcrickets.com they average about $18 for 1000 and I use two day shipping (less than $6, you can also use overnight shipping for $15) pay about $25 a month for crickets which doesn't make them seem that expensive at all. I've tried multiple cricket breeders including local (I live 20 minutes from http://www.timberlinefisheries.com and I find their crickets are smaller and only last me a week before they die off :/ which also brings my next point.. You have to care for the bugs as much as you do your dragon.. Gut load and water them (what they eat your dragon is absorbing) I keep mine in a 10 gal cage and they're quite happy (chirping away) until they meet their fate :p

It's best to give variety.. I usually go with a reptiworm/cricket variety. I would only use mealworms for emergency use only as they're the least nutritious and can impact young Beardies.. Not to mention they don't really digest them well. (I've used them when I ran out of crickets over the weekend and noticed full worms in my girl's poop)

You should spot clean the cage daily and thoroughly clean it once every week or two. I think I covered everything. Welcome!
 

bunnyrut

Gray-bearded Member
if you are interested at all in rescuing a beardie that really needs a home you can join this group on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/beardeddragonlove/
you need to request to be added.
some are young, 5 months old, others can be 2-3 years old. but they need homes and lots of love if you want to make an impact. the group gives lots of support.

or you can look through ads for any in your area that need home. you'll have to haggle the price. if you would prefer a healthy baby check out local breeders. i recommend a beardie at least 2 months old. babies younger than that are very fragile.
reptile expos are also really good. that's where i got Tasty Treat. you get to see all different types of beardies, and some can be super cheap.

they really have a way to clawing into your heart. usually within a week.
my mom just got one because of all my pictures and stories from my babies, and now she says she doesn't know how she could have gone this long without ever having one.

ordering feeders online is cheaper than going to the pet store. it averages out to $.03-.05 per cricket online, pet stores charge $.10-.12 per cricket. it adds up over time.
you can also look into breeding feeders. some are more complex, but they end up being cost effective. especially if you can sell some...
 
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