Okay obviously he's dying and he needs to get to a certified Reptile vet immediately. That should go without saying. Those National Geographic lights are junk, he and I'm assuming all of your other Beardies (how many do you currently have?) have never had proper UVB lighting if they are all using those lights. You should NEVER use a colored basking bulb at anytime, not for daytime or nighttime. Bearded Dragons have very unique and specific UVB lighting needs and if they don't get the correct wavelength and amount of
UVB light they will not be able to digest their food, process their calcium (resulting in Metabolic Bone Disease among other problems like the eye problems), etc.
If all of your beardies have the same UVB lights and red basking bulbs you are going to have major problems with all of them eventually. It usually starts with them not eating, sleeping all the time, and stunted growth. You need to throw away all of the red lights, they hurt their eyes and do no good, only harm. Your beardies need only 2 lights, most importantly a 10.0 T8 or T5 high-output UVB TUBE LIGHT, never use those coiled bulbs that fit into regular lightbulb fixtures, they hurt their eyes, skin, and don't put out nearly enough UVB. And compact UVB bulbs (regular lightbulb shaped UVB bulbs) do not put out the correct UVB. You should use either a long florescent tube
UVB light and then a bright white basking light, or you can spend a bit more and buy a Mercury Vapor Bulb which is an all-in-one UVB and basking bulb. The only
UVB light that is really adequate for what Beardies need are the REPTISUN 10.0 T8 or T5 tubes, or the Arcadia 12% tubes (Europe). That's it. And for a basking bulb all you need is a plain old bright white (not soft white or any colors) halogen lightbulb like you use in your house. I buy indoor halogen flood bulbs, bright white, and usually use either a 75w or 100w, whatever gets my basking spot and hot side temps correct. I buy them at Lowes for I think $9 and they're Sylvania brand.
Focusing on your young beardie that is seriously ill and/or injured right now, it should be obvious to you that you need to drive the hour and a half to a certified Reptile vet immediately! Most people have to drive more than 4 or 5 hours one way to get to a certified Reptile vet, so an hour and a half is nothing!!! If his bones are exposed and you actually admit "he looks really bad" then get in your car and take him now! He's suffering greatly, that's my major concern and should be yours. From what you are describing he is probably going to die from either whatever the issue is or from the horrible infection that has no doubt set in already.
I'm sorry, I don't mean to be harsh or rude, but I really can't believe you have a baby beardie with open wounds that expose his ribs on both sides of his body, and he's been like this for some time now because that doesn't happen overnight, and you have allowed him to suffer like this for so long, and you jump online to a forum instead of taking him to a reptile vet, for if nothing else to be euthanized humanely and painlessly. And your excuse for allowing him to suffer and not getting him help is because the vet is an hour and a half drive? This is one of the worst descriptions of suffering I've ever heard, so please just get him in the car and take him to the reptile vet to at least put him out of his misery.
And if "all" your other bearded dragons have the same lighting and environments then they're likely sick as well, or will be soon, that I can guarantee because they have never had proper UVB lighting, and I'm sure you're also using those round gauge thermometers to take their enclosure temps? They are junk and are off + or - 20 to 30 degrees, plus you cannot measure their main basking spots with them to begin with, which could be what has caused this issue, you could be literally cooking your beardies. You need to spend $10 and buy a digital thermometer with a probe on a wire that you can place the probe right on their main basking spots and get an accurate temperature reading. Each enclosure needs to have 3 proper temperature zones: the hot side, the cool side, and the main basking spot. You need to place the probe on the main basking spot and let it sit there for at least 20 minutes before reading the temperature. Then move the probe down to the floor of the enclosure on the same side that the basking spot is on (hot side). Again let the probe sit for at least 20 minutes before reading the temperature. Then move the probe to the floor on the opposite side of the enclosure from the basking spot and hot side. This is the cool side. Let the probe sit on the floor of the cool side for at least 20 minutes before reading the temperature. That's the only way to get accurate temperature readings.
Hot side=95-98 degrees Fahrenheit
Cool side=75-80 degrees Fahrenheit
Main Basking Spot=105-110 for babies/juveniles
100-105 for adults
