Dubia Roaches

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Taffer

Hatchling Member
Lou, I chose a deeper tote so I can stack my 12"x12" egg crates vertically so the frass (roach poop) can fall straight down to the bottom. Some people don't do that, but I want to avoid getting any moisture on the egg crates and avoid any mold/mildew. The heat at the bottom of the tank is greatest and will dry the frass out faster too. Saying this now, the baby nymph's like to burrow into the frass and eat it, so you should probably put the temperature probe at the very bottom of the bin so you don't cook your newborn nymphs. Wouldn't that be ironic? Anyway, I was planning on stacking them vertically across almost the entire tote, and then putting an egg crate horizontally on top to put the dry food in, and the plates that will hold the moist food (and water crystals) like oranges, mangos, apple cores, etc., so the egg crates don't suck the moisture out and cause mold/mildew.

LOL...thanks Rankins and Kornel. I'm not sure how I came across the Cozy foot warmer idea (maybe in the flood of Christmas e-mail sales ads?), but so far it is working great on the low setting. When I put the UTH on the bin and saw just how weak it was, it got mad and started looking for a better option. I wasn't thrilled with the human heating pad idea, but the Cozy foot heating pad was made to be left on all day, so with the thermostat turning it on and off, it should be safe, and avoid any extreme hot spots. Just one warning though, put something down like those little rubber feet that are under computer towers or that come with the UTH, or you can probably use old medicine bottle lids...anyway, put something under your tank so the tank/bin isn't sitting directly against the foot warmer matt or you may get too much heat. If you try it without spacers, let me know how it works for you. 90 watts is a lot more than those little under tank heaters (UTH) and I'm guessing that direct contact would be detrimental. One owner posted pictures on Amazon of the mat viewed through a high tech thermal gauge and some points reached ~150 degrees. So keep the cardboard box the mat is delivered in and put that under the mat to protect the floor and stop concrete from sucking out excess heat, and you should be golden (also suggested by customers and the Cozy company). I've been monitoring mine all day and so far so good, and that is on the low setting. If all else fails and it is too much heat, it's still a great way to keep your feet warm if you work at a desk most of the time. :0)

If you read the reviews on Amazon several people complained about the rubber smell. I'm using mine in a smallish office with a low ceiling (I'm 6'3" and can't quite stand up straight...85 YO house) and I can barely smell the rubber. It's not a bad smell...just a smell you would have with any new rubber mat. I think they updated the composition of the rubber after they had those complaints.

Edit - aim for a bin with about 18" depth or greater. By the time you stack the egg crate flats which are 11.5" by 12", and put an egg crate on top to hold some dry food and feeding bowls, you'll want the few extra inches in depth.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Storage-Organization-Storage-Bins-Cubes-Totes/Storage-Bins-and-Totes/N-5yc1vZc89jZ1z0tuqh

This is the tote I bought (the black base, yellow top $11.97, 27 gallon, model #: HDX27GONLINE), but the link gives you all the totes if you have different needs. The lid seems to hold well so if the tote gets knocked over (such as from my 6 YO or my 70 pound lap dog), you shouldn't have too much issue. The sides are pretty stout. The only issue is if you are drilling your holes in the lid, the design may be difficult to cut if you are not using a hole saw, or you can do a multiple smaller holes. You may need to just put all the holes in the sides instead without a hole saw. I cut my last (instead of failures, let's call them the practice bins LOL) with sheet metal snips, but these snips wouldn't work well with these types of lids. If that is an issue or you want a smaller tote, this may work better for you - Model #: FG2215H2MICBL

I figure I'll use my little failed tote with the 8 watt UTH for the feeders and the bigger for the breeder colony.
 

Taffer

Hatchling Member
Question for you experienced Dubia breeders:

How long do you leave fruits or salad scraps in the bin before removing them in fear of mold/mildew? I've seen some people say to remove the remains every few days, I've seem some say less than 24 hours.
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
I think it depends on how humid your bin is. Mine is relatively dry so leftovers tend to just dry out if the bugs leave anything. I add new veges every day and pick out stems and bits that are leftover. If you have a more humid enclosure I'd probably replace the veges every 24hrs or so.
 

LouP

Member
Glad I read this this morning. I went to Home Depot for lunch and picked up a red Sterilite 30 gallon tub with cover for $9.97 and also two pieces of utility carpet that fit under the tub for $4.47 to get the tub off the concrete floor. I felt like I scored and wanted to share. I can use the 14 gallon that I prepped as a temporary home when I am cleaning the colony.

LouP :blob5:
 

kornel351

Hatchling Member
That's great as for me I think I'm in a bit of a problem .My roaches are in a dark spot but they only stay one place .I put orange in for them and I haven't seen them eaten from since I got them and I'm running a UTH 24/7.I have to still get them a humidity gauge thou and a thermometer.
 

Rankins

Gray-bearded Member
Weird they are not eating the orange. Toss something else in there for them.
I feed my orange heads a dry mix I make myself. I feed it wet with organic orange juice mixed in with it. Its like a blob of oatmeal. I dont use water crystals. I feed the roaches everyday, sometimes twice. My orange heads have a huge appitite. They eat a lot more than my dubias or Ivory heads. Great for gut loading...but they go through food quick. It doesn't last long enough to mold or attract mites.
 

Taffer

Hatchling Member
kornel351":37l7q14e said:
That's great as for me I think I'm in a bit of a problem .My roaches are in a dark spot but they only stay one place .I put orange in for them and I haven't seen them eaten from since I got them and I'm running a UTH 24/7.I have to still get them a humidity gauge thou and a thermometer.

Kornel, without seeing a photo, I'm wondering if maybe you have too much light and they are avoiding the light? I put some orange slices in my bin and watched some during the day without disturbing them and they didn't touch it, but that night when it was all dark I went back up and peeked in using the screen on my phone for light and several were out and about, eating. This morning when I looked at the oranges all 3 slices were gone, and barely any evidence of having been there in the first place.

I missed where you said the temps were ~85 degrees. I'd guess they are huddling there because it is a warm spot and they are topical roaches. If the floor is 85, the rest of the bin is probably cooler. Maybe try bumping up the heat a little if you can? Rankins insulated his bin by sandwiching insulation between to similar bins and he had the insulation between. Or you could maybe add an adjustable ceramic heat light to boost the heat.

I had several adults die the first few days after shipping that I just wrote off to stress from shipping from California to Virginia, but now I saw a few other large that died in the molting process so I started wondering about my humidity levels. That darned gauge that had the humidity level that came with that el-crapo terraium we got when we bought out dragon was all over the place this past year and now when I need it, I couldn't find it. Finally found it and downstairs was ~52% humidity. I took it upstairs and put in the bin and the humidity was about 42%. I'm guessing that is why I saw a few die while molting. I added a lot more water crystals and spread them out so hopefully they will increase the humidity, and sneaked one of my wife's diffusers and plugged in to add a little more humidity in the room.
 

Taffer

Hatchling Member
LouP":1340bq4e said:
Glad I read this this morning.

So glad I could help!

LouP":1340bq4e said:
I can use the 14 gallon that I prepped as a temporary home when I am cleaning the colony.

Lou, I'd suggest using the 14 gallon bin for your "feeder" roaches that you go into frequently, and leave the main bin for the breeders and young nymphs. You don't need to worry about heating this bin as much since they won't be breeding anyway if you keep the room at >65 degrees. This way you won't be disturbing the breeding bin much and will not stress out the pregnant females. From what I read if you open the bin too much you can stress out the females and they may terminate the pregnancy (drop the egg sac, also called ootheca)?

Have you read up on how to sort your roaches? I saw several suggestions but I liked the use of 4 Home Depot orange buckets. From what I read on the SouthTexasDragons.com website, drill a ton of 9/16" in the bottom floor of the top bucket, a ton of 3/8' holes in the 2nd bucket, and a ton of 1/8" holes in the 3rd bucket, and of course leave the bottom bucket solid so you don't lose all your baby nymphs and have frass all over the floor. Nest the buckets together and pour in your roaches every few months. The adults won't be able to get through the 9/16" holes and will be stuck in the top bin, but the sub adults can get into the next lower bin as well as the smaller nymphs. The frass and tiny nymphs will all fall into the very bottom bucket with a little shaking. Of course you can adjust the 3/8" size holes depending on what size roaches you choose for feeders for your dragon.

https://www.southtexasdragons.com/uploads/1/2/7/8/12783285/std_2012_dubia_roache_info__care_sheet.pdf - This is a good read with several helpful photos...a little long but worth it.

Someone that has bred roaches a while can suggest how frequently to do this...maybe every 2 months or so (or when the frass gets to about 1/2" deep?)

This is also a good time to sort out the males and females to make sure you're keeping roughly 1 adult male to every 3-4 adult females so you don't end up with a lot of excess males. Excess males will eat more food, they will fight each other for females and I think I read they may kill some nymphs (or maybe that was due to overcrowding?)
 

Taffer

Hatchling Member
CooperDragon":1vpndjzs said:
I think it depends on how humid your bin is. Mine is relatively dry so leftovers tend to just dry out if the bugs leave anything. I add new veges every day and pick out stems and bits that are leftover. If you have a more humid enclosure I'd probably replace the veges every 24hrs or so.

Thanks Cooper! I'm cheating...I put in amounts that will hopefully get eaten 100% in that 24 hour timeframe, but I'll aim for that 24 hours to remove any leftovers.
 

Rankins

Gray-bearded Member
As Taffer mentioned cleaning the bin out every few months and the bucket trick works well. The more roaches you have the sooner you'll have to clean it. Wait til the frass is a 2"-3" deep. My orange head colony is massive and I only have to clean it out every 5-6 months.
 

LouP

Member
Thank you Taffer, I think I read that Southwest Dragons article three times now lol.

Here is my set-up in the middle of a test run:

89399-4720510850.jpg

The heat has been rising steadily but slowly. I made the cut outs in the top using a drill to start and finsished it off with a jig saw. I'm glad I saved the cut-outs because I can use them to control the air flow now.

LouP
 

Taffer

Hatchling Member
I'll post more later with a few photos, but my temps raise slowly too. In the smaller bin (the one I referred to as a failure) was heating up in about 35 minutes with the footwarmer on the low setting, and cooling down in about 27 minutes. that was going from a thermostat setting of 93 degrees and cooling down to 90.8 degrees before turning back on.
 

Taffer

Hatchling Member
Problem I would like some experienced help with please. My humidity in my house is 50-55% downstairs, but upstairs where the Dubia bin is the humidity is in the low 40%, and I just checked a moment ago and it was at 38%. I'm guessing that is why some of my roaches are dying? Only one or two looked like they were obviously molting, but several more have died. I have a roughly 2" x 3" plastic tray with about 1/2" of water crystals across the entire bottom for the last 36 hours, and the humidity is still low. I took a small container and put about 4 oz of water and drilled several holes in the top (and slightly into my finger LOL...barely even bled, but it got my attetion). I'm hoping this will give me better humidity, but if someone else has more ideas, please share. Would increasing the heat from 93% to say 95 or 96% help, or make it worse?

Thanks in advance!
 
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