Custom Bearded Dragon Wooden Enclosure Questions!!!

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JasonZ

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I'm looking to build a 4X2X2 wooden enclosure using most likely Birch Plywood. Unless you could recommend something else? I know melamine is popular to use for the enclosures but something about it kind of throws me off. I Saw the birch plywood in Lowes and it looked pretty nice and smooth. I would appreciate if I can pick your brains with the following questions:

1. Should I connect the wooden pieces top to bottom or left to right?
2. Is there a simple Polak proof (LOL) way to do the polystyrene rock walls and basking areas in the enclosure or would I be better off just using wallpaper and/or paint for the wall and wood for basking area platforms across most of the back of the enclosure?
3. Polycrylic or Polyurethane to seal the wood?

The videos I've seen for the polystyrene fake rocks are a little overwhelming and kind of confusing with the grout and paint and such. I figured it would just be easier to adhere wood (either by liquid nails or screws) across the back for the platforms and use anchor legs every so often for stability.

As for the lighting I thought of simply drilling a circle hole in the top and fixing Ceramic Light Fixtures (Just the Base) and pulling the cord out through the hole and any portion of the top of the dome lights that goes through the top. A UVB tube fixture across the back of the wood with 3M Command Hooks or something similar to adhere the UVB light fixture. Possibly 1 other hole for a Ceramic Heat Emitter.

I figured maybe 3 or so vent holes (circular) across the back or 2 on the back and 1 on each side piece and covers placed over the holes for air circulation. Can't find where I wrote the names down for them but I can get them in both Lowes and Home Depot because I saw them in both stores.

I know you have to seal around the corners and edges with silicone sealant of some kind. I know it needs to be waterproof and nontoxic. Just curious as to the best and safest to use for Reptiles?

I can either use Aluminum "U" Channel or Black - 4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track by Rockler (Found it on Amazon). Going with "U" channels most likely so the glass slides easily and smoothly.

I can get pretty creative with builds but want to make sure it's safe for my Beardie. I purchased my first one this past summer and want to move it to it's permanent home and figured to make it a Winter Project rather then just buy an aquarium and such. I have various decor ready to add like Mopani Wood and climbing branches or a climbing platform maybe both. I thought of buying a Repti Hammock because they seem to be quite popular with the Lizards from images I've seen. Maybe a couple of fake plants and some hides as well. Definitely a hide or two.

I figured this was the perfect place to pick peoples brains with these types of questions. Any Help/Advice/Tips/Suggestions Would Be Greatly Appreciated! Thanks and Have a Nice Night!!!


UPDATE:

I'm thinking of adding 2 side wood extenders about an inch or so thick and maybe 2-4 inch range wide out next to the 24" side pieces and just going with the "U" Channel pieces all around the front left/right and top/bottom. That I think might work for the sliding glass doors. Maybe an inch or so across and 3 or so inches wide should fit in at the front nicely all around.

I think the most important advice I'm looking for is safe materials to use for reptiles in the cases of like silicone and such. I don't want to use any type of sealant or adhesive that would be toxic to my Beardie. I'm really enjoying my time spent with him/her. Luckily my nice named the Beardie Izzy so until I find out for sure if it's a male or female the name will work both ways (Izzy from Jake and The Neverland Pirates and Izzy from Miami Vice). I've built and have experience with Pidgeon Coops, Outdoor Rabbit Cages, and fancy dog houses (both indoors and outdoors). I've just never built and enclosure for a Reptile and just want to be safe with the materials I use to seal and adhere things to the enclosure.

11-22-15

I'm just going to simply use circle saw blade attachment, Top mounting Light fixture (minus socket attachment), pull the cord out the top of the hole and just placing my Flukers and Zoo MED Dome lights and Flukers 8.5" Clamp Lamp (maybe for ceramic heat emiiter), and hang a Tube Light Fixture across the back of the enclosure that takes up most but not all the back wall (can get a pretty cheap hood at WalMart rather then spending a lot for a reptile version). I will pay close attention to make sure it can be sized with a reptile UVB tube or maybe buy a regular type UVB tube that are used in some offices. Will see if I can get in the same size for both types of tubes so it doesn't matter what I choose to go with.

Will do the same for the vent holes and covers as the lighting domes. Use a Circle saw attachment to just cut out a perfect circle hole.

I just need to know on whether to use polycrylic or polyurethane to seal the wood, is Water Base paint the way to go, and safe sealing and adhesive products to use for reptiles? Do I need silicone sealant for aquariums or just find a good nontoxic brand? Like GE Silicone Waterproof white Window/Door/Basement/Attic or clear type of similar? Are Liquid Nails and something called "Amazing Goop Glue" or any type of glue or epoxy safe? Types of Liquid Nails and Glue/Epoxy to avoid at all cost or entirely all together?

I would appreciate the advice if possible PLEASE!!!



12-6-15

I'm no longer going with Birch Plywood because it is getting horrible reviews. Nothing positive about it and these are coming from contractors and DIY highly skilled people. I was in Lowes last night and priced everything I need and saw the 2 wood choices I have to decide now to use. They are:

Premium MDF (Common 3/4 in x 48-in x 96-in) (Acual .75 in x 49-in (W) x 97-in (L)) [$30.98/sheet]
Commercial Particle Board (Common 3/4 in x 48-in x 96-in)(Acual .75 in x 49-in (W) x 97-in (L)) [$23.36/sheet]

Both are really nice and not expensive. There are 2 negatives with both choices and that is Very Heavy and Dusty when sawed and sanded. Good news is that Lowes will cut the wood for you to your specifications for free. The really weird thing is that both wood choices are the same exact price at Home Depot all the way to the penny. Never seen that before. I'll list everything and their prices below. I would everything listed there if you want and get 1 thing from WalMart due to the huge money saver. Lowes shopping List:

1. U Channel Tracks (3/4) x 4 ft. I believe. Was hard to get to that one being it was in the back and hard to grab. [About $9 if I read the correct label. That was also hard to see good.
2. Stone tiles if you want. There were 8" x 8" at $.78/tile and 8" x 16" at 1.30/tile
3. There were a couple different GE Silicone sealants to choose from with prices ranging from $5.21 to $7.98, Most expensive was the GE Supreme Silicone Sealant for [kitchen|Bath|Sink|Tub|Tile|Countertop] at $7.98/10.1 oz
GE Lifetime Impermeable Silicone at $6.98/10.1 oz
GE All Purpose Silicone at $5.21/10.1 oz

Both above are for Window|Door|Attic. All are 100% Waterproof!

If you need a caulk gun you can get the following:

Composite Ratchet at $9.98
Medium Duty No Drip at $6.48
Standard at $2.48

Minwax Polycrylic at $17.97/32 oz. container (Only around a $1 cheaper at WalMart for the same size and brand)

Lowes doesn't have UV Tube Fixtures anymore and also don't have Jeweler locks or any type of Glass lock. I forgot to price the following:

Sandpaper (220)
Mask/Respirator (For wood Dust)
Goggles (For Wood Dust)
Liquid Nails
Caulk if you choose to use as well as Silicone and Liquid Naisl. Dumb thing is they were in the same aisle as the Silicone I priced. Screws although you can pretty much get them at KMart, Walmart, Local Hardware store I'm sure cheaper. Brushes as well but they are cheaper at Walmart. I think I priced them as well. Through them in with the couple items I found there and that were cheaper. Circular Plastic Vent covers! They aren't too highly priced if I remember.I also forgot to price the Circle Saw attachments or whatever you call them. I have some small ones but Will need larger for the vent cover holes.

Lowes also doesn't carry Tempered glass which is preferential. I would not recommend plexi-glass from the articles I read and my budy who's a contractor said as well. Smallest chip or crack spreads everywhere from what I read. I also forgot to look and see if you could purchase Tiny litle wheels to adhere to the bottom of the glass so it slides easier and smoother. The wheel I saw elsewhere was on the bottom of a metal U piece that I think you would screw but not sure about that. The Youtube videos I saw with those at the bottom of the glass with the U Channel Track opened and closed very easily and with like no effort.

My plan is to purchase 4 pieces of wood that are thin and maybe a few inches wide to screww and adhere the U Channel tracks to on all 4 sides. Before I forget. The guy at Lowes said that you can use basic bristly brushes NOT sponge to apply the polycrylic instead of paying more for the Polycrylic brush.

Walmart:

1. Paint Brushes (Various types of Bristle) ranging from $1.17 to $10.00 depending on how fancy of a brush you want.
2. 3-in-1 Caulk Tool (for removing excess silicone and such) $3.97
3. Minwax Polycrylic (Like said above a $1 cheaper) $16.77/32 oz
4. 18" under cabinet fluorescent fixture (T8 15 watt) $7.97

The fixtures ranged in size and were 17 watts depending on the length. Even though my enclosure is going to be 48' long I figured a section of 18 inches for UVB and a basking light nearby would do or I might change my mind once I assemble the enclosure. I'm more of a visual person.

Like I said in the previous date I'll do my best to take pics and such to show step-by-step to help others that might like what I did. I'm sure I forgot to price and look for something else but can't think of it now. I'm not doing polystyrene walkways and ramps across the back wall due to not feeling confident of the durability and weight to be put on it. I'm going to go with a wooden one and place the smaller 8" x 8" stone tiles down it for traction only because of ease of cleaning the poop. I was going to go with the green patio carpet and such but it's like the repti-carpet once poop is on it you can't completely disinfect it to my peace of mind.

Any other suggestions and tips would be most welcome and appreciated!!!
 

Beardo50

Member
I built one a while back pretty much the same size and used fir plywood for the walls and top and back i think 5/8 inch thick. Used screws to put it together and siliconed around all the edges with kitchen and bath silicone. It shouldn't be a problem when its cured. I also used the plastic u channel to put in my sliding glass doors just build a header and bottom pc to seat them on. On the walls i cut squares to accept plastic floor registers for air flow. Kinda chincy lookin but it worked for me. You can also use the little round vents from the roofing section at your local HD and cut them in wherever you need them. Might look a little nicer. Just make sure they are plastic as i wouldn't trust metal ones. As for the top you can cut the plywood in a hugh oval and put some screening under it so your lights will sit on top or if you want the top removable maybe see if they have one of those pre made tank covers to fit there metal edges with screen already attached. For the perches and stuff i built in ramps and wooden shelves and covered them with that green carpet stuff they sell for the cage floor. Just some suggestions. Cheers!!!! :)
 

JasonZ

Member
Original Poster
Thanks for the reply! I think I put in I was going to do the oval holes in the top and pull up the cord and just attach my Zoo Med and Fluker lights into plastic/ceramic bases (without socket included) and also using the circular plastic vents. I forgot to edit out half of the questions from my original post after the updates below them. Will do now. Thanks again. I figured some sort of nontoxic silicone sealant would be alright but wanted to make sure first. Appreciate the tips! Have a good one!!!

Alright, my initial post should flow a little better and make better sense since I just edited it entirely. Please make sure to read it entirely including Update and 11-22-15 which have some decisions I made and what I'm going with for certain aspects. If I missed something I'd appreciate the suggestions still. Thanks and when I begin this I'll try and take as many pics during the building process. Probably just lay out the cut pieces for the start pics and skip the polycrylic process and just pick up with the pics once the build commences. I know these things are helpful for others who might want to tackle a project like this and maybe you'll see the pics and add on to certain aspects to make it your own. I'm looking to start somewhere in mid December unless there is some setback which I hope not. Would like to make it a Christmas Present for Izzy!!!
 

Ed707

Hatchling Member
I'm building my own wood enclosure and probably used the same birch plywood your seeing at lowes. Lowes and home depot also had a non toxic aquarium safe silicone in the paint section. I used 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 in redwood strip from home depot to build a frame for the back and bottom of my enclosure to attach the sheets of plywood and for extra support... I'll be posting pictures once it's done in the DIY section. Hope this helped!
 

JasonZ

Member
Original Poster
I meant to come back here sooner but kept forgetting...LOL. I'm not using the Birch Plywood now. It's an expensive sheet of crap and junk. Horrible reviews for the Birch Plywood citing numerous negative issues with it and 1 person said it isn't worth half of the price let alone the $49 and change. I'll edit my original post with the 2 I'm deciding over now. Both are really highly rated and not expensive at all. I was at Lowes last night and saw both and still can't decide between each. I'll update the original now!!!
 

Ed707

Hatchling Member
As long as it's not cedar or pine I think your fine as those 2 are toxic to dragons. I used the 1/4 inch thick sheets of birch semi finished plywood to keep my enclosure lightweight because I built it rather big at 5feet by 3feet by 3feet. The plywood was $24 for a 8x4 foot sheet which I thought was pretty cheap lol idk maybe I got jipped haha.
 
JasonZ":j9hqywui said:
I meant to come back here sooner but kept forgetting...LOL. I'm not using the Birch Plywood now. It's an expensive sheet of crap and junk. Horrible reviews for the Birch Plywood citing numerous negative issues with it and 1 person said it isn't worth half of the price let alone the $49 and change. I'll edit my original post with the 2 I'm deciding over now. Both are really highly rated and not expensive at all. I was at Lowes last night and saw both and still can't decide between each. I'll update the original now!!!

The plywood at Lowes/Homedepot is pretty cheap stuff. The veneer chips and flakes off easily.

Melamine and particle board are not very durable, and can easily break during assemble without pre-drilling and careful assembly.

Quality birch, maple, or oak plywood can be purchased at a real lumber yard.
 
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