Beardy urate almost completely yellow/orange!!+ not eating

[BeardedUnity11]

Hi, my beardy hasn’t eaten a lot these past 3 days, almost no crickets and little kale, he’s been pooing everyday as usual and otherwise seems to be happy and active ( no slowness ) always moving around the tank.
I’ve took him to the vets due to a recent tail rot and they said to use some anti septic drops which has treated it very well ( almost gone and we lost very little tail)
So I came in today to the usual large poo but his really yellow urate got me worried, ive read up on it and some say it is due to too much calcium, but wanted another opinion
Please help and thanks in advance

Age:just over 5 months
Calcium dusted every other day
Currently in shedding of tail only
Male
UVB 10%+
Temps are
Basking: 36*C. Cool:28*C

Hope this helps

 

[VenusAndSaturn]

Has he had any carrots, red raspberries, strawberries, cactus pear or anything like that lately? If so it could be because of that, depending on what they eat it can effect their poop. From what ive researched it could also possibly be dehydration, which in that case make sure hes receiving baths at least weakly and is getting water dripped on his nose daily.

What brand of uvb do you have? Is it a tube light, how old is it and is it a t5 or t8?

The temperatures should be this
Basking spot should be around 100-110*F (probably 37-43*C)
Warm side should be around 90-95 (32-35*C)
Cool side 70-85 (26-29*C)

So for the most part all you need to do is raise the basking spot up a bit.

For calcium you should be dusting 5 times a week on at least one insect feeding a day during that time, and then multivitamins twice a week.
Basically this
Monday-Friday calcium
Saturday and Sunday multivitamins.

 

[BeardedUnity11]

Has he had any carrots, red raspberries, strawberries, cactus pear or anything like that lately? If so it could be because of that, depending on what they eat it can effect their poop. From what ive researched it could also possibly be dehydration, which in that case make sure hes receiving baths at least weakly and is getting water dripped on his nose daily.

What brand of uvb do you have? Is it a tube light, how old is it and is it a t5 or t8?

The temperatures should be this
Basking spot should be around 100-110*F (probably 37-43*C)
Warm side should be around 90-95 (32-35*C)
Cool side 70-85 (26-29*C)

So for the most part all you need to do is raise the basking spot up a bit.

For calcium you should be dusting 5 times a week on at least one insect feeding a day during that time, and then multivitamins twice a week.
Basically this
Monday-Friday calcium
Saturday and Sunday multivitamins.

It is a t8 tube light and I’ll calium dust more often, thanks a lot

 

[VenusAndSaturn]

Is it mounted on the outside? If so you need to mount it inside as it is weaker compared to the t5 10.0.

 

[EllenD]

I would say that if the urate was orange/yellow then it's most likely due to him being a bit dehydrated. Usually if they are excreting too much calcium in their bowel movements it tints the urate a pinkish color, while orange is typically dehydration, resulting from either eating too little FRESH greens/veggies and/or too few LIVE, GUTLOADED insects. While most Dragons do not drink standing water from a bowl or bath (some do, but it's few and far between) this means that if they lose their appetite at all and stop eating their daily fresh salad and/or their daily live, gutloaded insects, then this is not only them losing their source of nutrition but also their main source of hydration.

The key here is figuring out why his appetite is lacking (and if he's not lethargic yet, he most likely will be soon, and his appetite will continue to dwindle), and this is typically due to either a completely inadequate UVB light, such as your Reptisun 10.0 UVB light being the compact/coil version and not the long, fluorescent tube version, or if you do have the long, fluorescent tube version and it's the much weaker T8 strength of UVB tube and it's mounted on top of the mesh lid, or it's not within at least 6" of his Basking Spot/Platform, or it's older than 6 months old, or it's not set up over the Hot Side of the tank right alongside his bright-white colored Basking Bulb so that both lights are sharing the center of the Hot Side of the tank top and his main Basking Spot/Platform is not positioned directly underneath the center of BOTH of these lights so that he's getting both lights while he's basking (replicating natural sunlight), or you do not leave both lights on for at least 13-14 hours every day, any and all of these things will start to cause a severe Calcium Deficiency, a weakening of his bone density, and the start of MBD, all of which FIRST present the symptoms of a lack of appetite, lethargy, and then tremors/twitching of limb/extremities and his head.

So, if your Reptisun 10.0 UVB light is either the compact or coil version (regular lightbulb type that fits into a regular dome or clamp lamp/regular lightbulb socket) then you need to immediately upgrade to either a Reptisun 10.0 UVB tube or an Arcadia UVB tube that is at least 22" or 24" long at a minimum, respectively. If you have the weaker T8 strength Reptisun 10.0 UVB tube (usually it's 18" long, especially if you purchased a T8 tube in a pet store like Petco or Petsmart, as the only Reptisun 10.0 UVB tube most of them carry is the weaker T8 in the 18" length) and it is older than 6 months old, then it needs replaced immediately, regardless of how it's set up over the tank, as all T8 strength UVB tubes stop emitting ANY UVB or UVA light at 6 months old, as they have a very fast UVB decay rate. So at 6 months old they will still turn-on and light up, but they are only emitting plain light, no UVB or UVA light. In addition, if your UVB tube is the weaker T8 strength and you have it sitting on top of the mesh tank lid, it's blocking about 40% or more of the already very weak UVB light that it emits, and it's not strong enough to emit adequate UVB to your dragon on the other side of the mesh lid, and must be strapped to the underside of the mesh lid by poking 4 holes in the mesh lid and using long zip ties, wire, twine, shoelaces, etc. to strap the entire tube fixture to the underside of the mesh. In addition, YOU CANNOT HAVE ANY TYPE OF CLEAR, PLASTIC SAFETY COVER ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TUBE FIXTURE THAT IS COVERING/OBSTRUCTING THE UVB TUBE. Some tube fixtures come with this, and all plastic and glass blocks 100% of all UVB light. Also, you must have his Basking Spot/Platform positioned within the Hot Side of the tank and directly centered under both the bright-white colored Basking Bulb and the now unobstructed UVB tube, which should both be right alongside each other and sharing the top of the Hot Side of the tank, so he gets both lights at the same time while basking. Also, both of these lights must be on every single day for at the very least 13-14 hours.

If you happen to have the much stronger, much more adequate Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube, then it can sit on top of the mesh lid, but it still must be within at least 11" of his Basking Spot/Platform, and it still must be set up the same way over the Hot Side of the tank, right alongside the bright-white Basking Bulb with both lights sharing the center of the top of the Hot Side of the tank, so he gets both lights at the same time while basking. In addition, the 10.0 T5HO UVB tube must be replaced once every 12 months at most, as they still stop emitting any UVB or UVA light at 12 months old, they just have double the UVB and UVA output of the T8 tubes, and they has a slower UVB decay rate.

 

[AHBD]

This would be likely sign of dehydration. Offer water dripped on his snout and you can also soak him for 5-10 minutes in lukewarm water to give him a chance to drink.