109 can pose a risk to your beardys health. 105 is already pushing it for some beardies but fine for most. As long as your beardy isn't acting unusual and is receiving enough hydration, I wouldn't be super worried but would consider a weaker bulb in the future, assuming temps with the weaker bulb reach 90+ degrees(depending on age).
109 can pose a risk to your beardys health. 105 is already pushing it for some beardies but fine for most. As long as your beardy isn't acting unusual and is receiving enough hydration, I wouldn't be super worried but would consider a weaker bulb in the future, assuming temps with the weaker bulb reach 90+ degrees(depending on age).
i will just move the bulb farther from the basking area so it isnt so close .. thats a non issue i moved it closer a day or two ago because i didnt think it was hot enough ...
plus shes sick right now cant climb so much .. so i want the lower part of the tank warmer for the time being since she's not really basking unless i pysically put her up there
109 can pose a risk to your beardys health. 105 is already pushing it for some beardies but fine for most. As long as your beardy isn't acting unusual and is receiving enough hydration, I wouldn't be super worried but would consider a weaker bulb in the future, assuming temps with the weaker bulb reach 90+ degrees(depending on age).
i will just move the bulb farther from the basking area so it isnt so close .. thats a non issue i moved it closer a day or two ago because i didnt think it was hot enough ...
plus shes sick right now cant climb so much .. so i want the lower part of the tank warmer for the time being since she's not really basking unless i pysically put her up there
Over heating will result in loss of ability to crawl and climb - see this more information viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516 , is very likely the entire viv has been too hot , and actually hotter than 43 degC ==> loss of ability for locomotion ==> death if persists.
How are you measuring the temperatures in the tank , and where are you measuring these ?
Note that those stick on stips and analog dial thermometers can be 20% in error , so it is very likely the tank is a lot hotter than you think is based on what the inaccurate thermometer is telling you. Best to invest in a few of these ASAP : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5X-Digital-Thermometer-LCD-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Marine-Terrarium-Reptile-Snake/322611199863?epid=6006005107&hash=item4b1d203f77:g , i have these and have laboratory tested them and checked their calibrations and they are EXCELLENT and good accuracy ( within 1 degC ).
Optimum temperature range for a bearded dragon is 33 degC to 39 degC. Basking spot NO HOTTER than 41 degC.
good then i am right haha.. and probably was right before i changed her bulb brands.. I have been tweaking for days and days haha..
Okay so final question about temps..
I don't think i need the CHE at all for overnights...
My house is around 68 degrees ... So i imagine that inside her tank will stay around 70 or 72 throughout the night... the che will put the tank around 79 or 80 would be my best guess..
from what i read this is sufficient.. But just double checking my reading
While a CHE probably would be fine, it is really not necessary. Heck, beardies do need a time to cool down so I definitely don't think it's necessary. My tank in the daytime gets to a little over 94 degrees and is room temp at night. Given my beardy is still fine after 5 and a half years of me doing so, and the fact that my house at night is in the mid to high 60s in the winter and 70 plus during the rest of the year, it's just fine to not use a CHE.