2 Week Old Baby Problems : (

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Gizzy

Member
Hello im new to the forum but having some problems with my 2 week old beardie that I got yesterday. Its in a 3 x 1 x 1 foot viv has a UVB lamp running the whole length and a crompton reflector spot on 1 side (unsure of the wattage). When I first put it in yesterday it stayed in the same spot for a good few hours after eventually starting to move around the viv. Today it has been lying down all day with its head down and eyes closed, hardly breathing. Ive tried to feed it crickets, greens and fruit even hand feeding at times but still no luck with getting her to eat. I am very worried as i know they have to eat alot when they are babies. Is there anything I can do or try I dont want to keep hassling her becuase she plays dead when i go to pick her up. Ive put a load of crickets into the viv but am worried they are going to eat away at her but she needs to eat :( What can I do? The temp on the warm side is only hitting 90 degrees f is this too low? If so what can I get to make it warmer

Please help !

Gizzy
 

fresnowitte

BD.org Sicko
Hello Grizzy and Welcome to BD.org!

First I need to tell you that beardies go thru a thing we humans call relocation stress it doesn't matter if they are hatchlings or adults. Relocation stress can last days to weeks. During this time beardies seem to have less of an appetite and can be less active. However if her head is down all the time is not good. I'm sorry that someone sold you a baby that is only 2 weeks old...that's not right! Babies should be allowed to grow and put on a little gurth before they are rehomed. Hatchlings to 2 weeks are much/way to young to have to deal with relocation stress...would handle it better if they were at least 6 weeks but preferrably 8 to 10 in my opinion.

You could try mixing a little bit of supplements in with some baby food and see if you could get your little one to take a few licks...try this several times a day and hopefullly it will trigger his/her appetite.

Okay you need to get the crickets that she is not eating out of the viv or they will eat at your beardie as you suspected. Young beardies are often afraid of the fast moving crickets so if you put them in the frig for a minute this will slow them down...normally I suggest that you feed crickets in a seperate container...but this may stress a baby so small....but I'd only try offering a couple at a time.

Let me ask a few questions and we can go from there.

What size enclosure do you have your dragon in?
What type substrate do you have on the bottom of your tank?
Do you use UVB lights?
If so, Is it a coil, compact, fluorescent tube, or Mercury Vapor bulb?
What is the brand name and number of your bulb? Wattage (if MVB)?
How old is your UVB bulb?
How close can your dragon get to the UVB?
Do you use a separate basking bulb? What kind and what is the wattage?
What are the basking temps?
What is the cool side temp?
Do you take the temps with a stick on thermometer, a digital thermometer with a wire and a probe end or a temp gun?
Where exactly are you taking your basking temps?
Do you use a heat rock or heat pad?
Do you use vitamin or calcium supplements? What brand(s)? How many days a week do you use each of them?
(I know you said your beardie is not eating but just want to make sure you have it right for when she does)
Is your dragon having regular bowel movements (poops)?
Do you bath your dragon? How often?
Do you mist your dragon or offer water other than in the bath?
 

Gizzy

Member
Original Poster
Thanks for the advice, its had a few licks of baby food mixed with calcium powder but only the tiniest little bit.

Im not sure of the gallon size but its a 3 foot by 1 foot by 1 foot vivarium.
I started with sand but took that out after the first day and put paper towels down.
Yeah ive got a UVB light its a flouorescent tube repti-glow 10.0 which should be brand new as I only bought it a few weeks ago.
It can get within 6 inches of the UVB bulb.
Yeah ive got a seperate basking bulb, its a 60 watt, i bought a 150 watt infra red bulb off the itnernet, but it was getting way too hot so put the normal 60 watt back in.
The basking temperatere is 97.0 f.
I take the temperature with a digital wire and probe, and also have stick on ones on each side.
I leave a heat mat on over night, the temperature stays at around 70.0 f.
Ive tried putting nutrobal calcium powder on the crickets and some in the baby food, but it didnt eat the crickets.
Erm its only gone for 2 'poops'...it was black and white if this helps?! :?
I gave it a wash yesterday to get the dried up baby food off and have been puttin drops of water on its head twice a day, its licked some of the water up.
Ive misted it once since ive had it and have a shallow water dish in there.
Also the humidty is 52% if this makes a diference ?

Please see what you think, thanks again.
 

spurlee01

BD.org Addict
Hey Gizzy-
Sorry to hear your babies not doing well :( .
A couple of things stand out to me.
First, the reptiglo 10.0 has caused problems with lots of beardies. If I were you, I would go ahead and turn that off. The only great UVB bulb is the reptisun 10.0 tube. The best price is at http://www.petmountain.com. Your beardie will be fine without UVB for a week while you wait for it to ship.
Next, is your basking bulb bright white light? If not, that's what you want. I would try a 75 watt bulb because babies need temps at more like 100-110*F. 97*F is a little low.
I don't recommend leaving a heat mat on at night. Beardies cannot sense heat from below so there is a chance that they could be burned, especially if it malfunctions. If the nighttime temp does not drop below 65*F, you don't need any heat source. If they do drop below that, you need a ceramic heat emitter which puts out heat but not light.
52% is high for humidity. It should be 50% maximum. Misting in the tank isn't a good idea b/c it raises humidity. I would offer baths every day while your beardie isn't feeling well (10-20 mins) and then once he/she's better, every other day to every third day. Do not leave him for a second in the tub because he may be weak enough to drown.
Keep offering food and if your beardie doesn't eat, try the baby food. It took my girl a couple of tries before she ate it, but she loves it now.
Keep us updated,
Sara
 

Gizzy

Member
Original Poster
Thanks for the replys. What do you mean the repti-glo 10.0 has caused problems before, what kind of problems? Ive took your advice and switched it off, Ive orderd a repti sun from shelled warriors as im actually in the UK and the pet mountain site is an american website. What do you mean by 'bright white'? Its just an ordinary light bulb from tesco...It seems to like the cooler side of the vivarium alot more, and when I put it into the warm side it quickly goes into one of its hides. Im going to get a 75 watt today though. For the past 2 days its hardly moved. It just seems to be sleeping all day and night. Ive left baby bearded dragon pellets in there, baby food, offered her crickets and fruit and vegetables but she just isnt interested. Is there a way to force some food into her? The humidty is not on 48/50% ill keep an eye on it so it doesnt get any higher. Im starting to run out of ideas and dont want her to die! Its been 5 days now since ive had her, shes nearly 3 weeks old and has hardly ate a thing...

:cry:
 

zebraflavencs

Extreme Poster
Hi! Once you get the temps up, baby will be more active, and start to eat better. Great you were able to get the sun, you should see more activity, and good colors when baby is under that for a few days or so.

The glo has many health issues. Here is a site you may want to read up about the glo, and other uvbs:
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor.htm

This is also a great site that discusses issues with uvbs. You will most likely see members from here , posting there:
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/message/6614

Hope this helps out !
Janie.
 

Gizzy

Member
Original Poster
Thankyou zebraflavencs for them sites im just about to check them out. The basking temperature is now around 100.f* and she keeps having little burts of energy where shes running around for a bit, then stopping and closing her eyes, and the breathing appears to stop aswell which is worrying? Also shes doing this thing which is kinda liek a nosedive, shes running around then falls to the floor and starts rubbing her nose along the slate or tissue paper like shes trying to scratch it or dig a hole? shes also rubbing her nose against the glass? Im glad she still has the energy to do this though, but i need to get her eating!
 

Krisymof2

Hatchling Member
if she ever gets dehijurated then u can feed her baby food or u can give her a bath :D .Sorry that i did not anser sooner :banghead:



Sorry about the repeated post and bad spelling....my 10 year old signed on under my name and posted the above!
 

fresnowitte

BD.org Sicko
Gizzy":998bb said:
Also shes doing this thing which is kinda liek a nosedive, shes running around then falls to the floor and starts rubbing her nose along the slate or tissue paper like shes trying to scratch it or dig a hole? shes also rubbing her nose against the glass? Im glad she still has the energy to do this though, but i need to get her eating!
She might be itchy sounds like she is scratching, could she be getting ready to shed?
This may also cintribute to the way she is acting an if so she may not have much of an appetite
either. Just a thought. :wink:
 

spurlee01

BD.org Addict
Sorry about the site confusion. I need to start paying more attention to where people are from! (although it seems Janie will always be there with the extra links). By bright white light, I just mean it's not a colored (red, black, blue) light or soft light (the light bulbs we usually buy for our house say soft white). Hope that helps to clear up the confusion. Also, are you just putting babyfood in her tank or are you actually dripping it onto her nose? Mine won't eat it out of a bowl, but she will eat when I drip it onto her nose/mouth. Force feeding can be done, but it is dangerous as the dragon can be injured when you are forcing open its mouth or it can aspirate the food (end up with it in its lungs basically).
Sara
 
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