I'm sorry, I just wrote that last post and then I saw your post...okay, so you got the raw, unpasteurized honey and the Hibiclens, along with some sterile gauze. Awesome. Okay, so the key to doing this successfully is going to be #1) Cleanliness #2) Regiment and #3) Dryness. You have to keep the fungus, whatever type it is, but especially if it's Yellow Fungus, from constantly reinfecting your beardie over and over again, because that's exactly what fungus does, it basically tries to constantly feed on moisture so it can keep spreading and finding new hosts, in this case the host is your beardie sitting inside a tank. So if you haven't yet totally disinfected her entire enclosure both inside and out, top to bottom, and everything else inside the enclosure including all the decor, the light fixtures, the bulbs themselves, every single little thing that is touching her or her enclosure, then this is step #1. The best way to do this for the most part is by soaking everything that can in be soaked in the bathtub in a mixture of the hottest water you can get and either regular chlorine bleach (unscented, no fragrances) or in F10 disinfectant. The F10 usually has to be ordered online, so the bleach is probably the way to go, you can buy it by the gallon at Dollar Tree for $1, so I'd buy a couple of gallons of it. Just an FYI, hopefully you have a Dollar Tree near you because they sell sterile gauze, disposable gloves, and probably a host of other things you'll be needing to buy often, and everything is actually $1 at Dollar Tree. So I'd investigate that. Anyway, you want the hot water/bleach mixture to get into every little spot of the enclosure and decor, so obviously soaking everything you can in the bathtub (or in a large, plastic tub if you don't have a bathtub) is the easiest way. And if she has any decor that is wood, like a basking branch, that cannot be soaked in bleach or disinfectant, you should soak it in only very hot water for a while, then you can actually pre-heat your oven to 250 degrees, then place the wet wood decor right on the oven rack for about 30 minutes. This will kill everything on it and in it, and it won't trap any bleach or disinfectants inside the wood. You can also do this with any real rocks. Obviously you can't put anything plastic in the oven, lol, so those are the things you should soak in the hot water and bleach along with the enclosure itself. As far as the light fixtures, you'll need to spray them down or wipe them down with the hot water and bleach (unplug them first, lol), and try to get every little place in and on the light fixtures that you can. And then wipe down the bulbs as well, but do not get them very wet. After you soak the enclosure and all the decor in the hot water and bleach, drain the tub and then you'll have to rinse everything very, very well, until you can no longer smell any trace of bleach.
You'll need to do this to her enclosure and everything in it once a week in order to stay on top of the fungus spreading. It's going to be very, very important to get any poop or anything else that might get spilled or scattered inside the enclosure out of there ASAP, as she cannot afford to get any other infections or illnesses while she's fighting Yellow Fungus. Using clean, dry paper towels as the only substrate in the bottom of her enclosure is a must, that way you can remove any paper towels that get soiled right away and replace them. I would actually replace all the paper towels in the bottom of the tank as often as you can possibly afford to, again, Dollar Tree has mega double rolls of paper towels for $1. If you can change the paper towels out once a day that's great, once every other day, every two day, etc., as often as you can. But definitely replace them as soon as they become soiled by any poop, any food or dead insects, or any water. And you cannot keep any type of water bowl inside the enclosure either, that's if you do at all in the first place. If you are lucky enough to have a beardie who actually drinks regularly out of a bowl of water, you'll have to give her water by dripping it on her snout and letting her lick it up, then dry her off and the wet areas around her off. So completely disinfect the enclosure and everything in it once a week. This is very important, and sticking to a regular daily and weekly schedule is key to beating this thing. So if you haven't already done this, start here. SOMETHING TO REMEMBER IS THAT THE LESS CLUTTERED HER ENCLOSURE IS AND THE LESS "STUFF" IS INSIDE THE ENCLOSURE, THE LESS SURFACE AREA THERE IS FOR THE FUNGUS TO GROW ON, AND THE EASIER IT IS TO DISINFECT WEEKLY AND TO KEEP CLEAN AND DRY AT ALL TIMES. SO I WOULD REMOVE ANY UNNECESSARY DECOR LIKE FAKE PLANTS OR RANDOM LITTLE DECORATIVE ROCKS, ETC. UNTIL YOU BEAT THIS THING.
Okay, so that's your enclosure and equipment disinfecting, now on to your poor little beardie. As I said in my prior post, those patches/spots/lesions are now open, and the last thing she needs is a secondary bacterial infection in them. Typically with Yellow Fungus people will give the oral antifungal medications once daily, but they will do the topical treatments twice a day, once in the morning, usually after the dragon eats their breakfast (as to not stress them out before they have eaten), and once in the late afternoon/early evening after they eat their final meal of the day. Oh, by the way, you never want to leave food inside her enclosure for a long period of time, like greens/veggies or fruit, and be sure to look for all little bits of it throughout the tank and get them out of there. Since you don't know if she has Yellow Fungus or not at this point, but you do know she has some type of probably fungal infection and now has open wounds where the patches of fungus are, I would avoid using any of the topical, antifungal creams or sprays right now until you get the test results back with a definitive diagnosis, and I'd use only the raw, unpasteurized or Makuna honey as the sole topical medication. As I said in my prior post, this could be any one of a huge number of possible fungal infections, including Yellow Fungus, and until you know which one it is you have no way of knowing what topical antifungal medication is going to be effective against the particular fungal infection she has. Simply using Lamisil or Monistat as a general antifungal cream does not work, and at this point is futile. There are at least 10 or so available over-the-counter antifungal topical preparations that you can buy, each one effective against different fungal infections, so once you know what type of infection she has then you can come back here and research what particular topical antifungal medication has been most effective for people who have had bearded dragons with the same infection. In the meantime she needs a "broad-spectrum", for lack of a better word, antimicrobial that is known to be effective against most types of fungal infections, bacterial infections, and viral infections...and that is the raw, unpasteurized honey or Makuna honey. I was a skeptic about using this stuff as a "cure-all" like a lot of people have recently been doing, as I have a medical background and I tend to be more analytical, but I can't fight the fact that people are using raw, unpasteurized or Makuna Honey as a topical treatment against all strains of fungi, bacteria, viruses, protozoa, and seemingly every other microbe, and have been very successful in doing so. I haven't yet seen any data or reports from anyone who has used raw, unpasteurized honey as a topical treatment for Yellow Fungus in tandem with an oral antifungal medication, but I'm looking into that. For the time being, as I stated, I'd stick to using the Hibiclens as the daily, topical antiseptic and the raw, unpasteurized honey as the daily, topical medication until you get the results of the test.
So you'll want to do this twice a day, again once in the morning AFTER she eats her breakfast, and then again in the late afternoon/early evening AFTER she eats her final meal of the day. Try your best to make this work around her usual feeding schedule, you don't want to change too much in her routine and cause her any unnecessary stress, she needs to be as stress-free as possible. Right now though I'm assuming those open wounds are really sore, so doing the topical treatments may be very uncomfortable for her, and the last thing you want is for her to stop eating and start losing weight. So always let her eat first before doing the topical treatments, and always be as gentle as possible when using the antiseptic to clean the areas and when applying the diluted honey. And try to continually talk to her in a soft, gentle voice throughout everything that you do, some people will laugh at me for saying this and have laughed at me in the past for saying this, usually with the smart ass remark that "It's only a lizard, blah blah blah", but they'd be wrong. She knows your voice, you're her person, and any time she feels badly or has pain and is scared because she doesn't know what you're doing to her or why you're doing it, your familiar, reassuring voice is going to keep her calm and lessen the total stress that she's going to feel.
So you'll need to designate some little containers as being for the Hibiclens, and another for diluting the raw, unpasteurized honey with hot water. It's important to not dip a sterile cotton swab or a piece of gauze into the Hibiclens or the diluted honey, apply it to her skin, and then dip it in the mixture again, as that will contaminate the entire mix. So you can actually use regular old Q-tips to apply both the antiseptic and the honey, that way you can throw each one away after you use it once to apply the topical treatments to her and not have to worry about wasting a bunch of money, as once again you can buy a box of like 500 Q-tips at Dollar Tree for $1. Both the Hibiclens and the raw honey should be used sparingly, a little goes a long way, so I'd mix just a very tiny bit of of the honey right before using them, then dump any leftover and wash the containers in very hot water after each time you use them...again, the key here is Cleanliness.
*****Starting with the Hibiclens, it's a pink liquid and you need very, very little of it to simply cover each little area...YOU SHOULD NOT DILUTE THE HIBICLENS AT ALL. SIMPLY SQUIRT A VERY, VERY TINY AMOUNT OF THE HIBICLENS INTO A SEPARATE CONTAINER, THEN DIP A CLEAN Q-TIP IN THE HIBICLENS IN THE CONTAINER (DO NOT EVER DIP A Q-TIP DIRECTLY INTO THE BOTTLE OF HIBICLENS), AND ALLOW THE Q-TIP TO ABSORB THE HIBICLENS. THEN JUST USE THE Q-TIP TO LIGHTLY AND GENTLY DAB OR ROLL OVER AN INDIVIDUAL INFECTED AREA. YOU ONLY NEED TO ENSURE THAT THE ENTIRE PATCH/LESION/AREA HAS A LIGHT COAT OF THE HIBICLENS ON IT, THAT'S IT. NO NEED TO APPLY HIBICLENS TO THE SAME PATCH OR AREA MORE THAN ONCE, JUST MAKE SURE THAT THE ENTIRE EFFECTED AREA IS WET WITH THE HIBICLENS. THAT'S ALL YOU HAVE TO DO. THEN THROW THAT Q-TIP OUT, GET A NEW ONE, DIP IT IN THE HIBICLENS, AND MOVE ON TO THE NEXT AREA. REPEAT THIS UNTIL YOU COAT EACH INFECTED AREA WITH HIBICLENS, MAKING SURE THAT THE ENTIRE INFECTED AREA LOOKS WET WITH THE HIBICLENS. PLEASE BE SURE TO USE A NEW Q-TIP WITH EACH NEW INFECTED AREA YOU APPLY THE HIBICLENS TO, DO NOT DIP A USED Q-TIP BACK INTO THE HIBICLENS.
****Now Hibiclens acts as a antimicrobial for up to 24 hours once it is applied and rinsed off, SO YOU ONLY NEED TO APPLY THE HIBICLENS TO EACH INFECTED AREA ONCE A DAY. NO NEED TO DO IT AGAIN IN THE AFTERNOON OR EVENING, JUST APPLY IT EVERY MORNING. That's another nice thing about using the Hibiclens, you don't use nearly as much of it as you do Betadine. Once you are sure that you've coated each infected area or patch entirely with the Hibiclens, then you can simply soak a piece of sterile gauze in warm water and just gently pat each area with it. What you're trying to do here is to just rinse the residual Hibiclens off the top of where it was applied to, you don't have to rinse it completely off, and even if you do rinse it completely off the Hibiclens is still good for 24 hours, acting both as a cleansing agent for the infected areas and a protective barrier against most all microbes from getting into the wound for up to 24 hours. ***SO IF YOU APPLY THE UNDILUTED HIBICLENS ON EACH INFECTED AREA AROUND THE SAME TIME EACH MORNING, YOU ARE ESSENTIALLY MAKING IT VERY DIFFICULT IF NOT IMPOSSIBLE FOR MOST MICROBES TO REINFECT EACH AREA. THIS IS WHY THEY ARE NOW USING IT FOR SURGEONS TO SCRUB IN WITH, THEIR HANDS ARE ESSENTIALLY MICROBE-PROOFED FOR 24 HOURS AFTER WASHING WITH IT. After you dab each area with the Hibiclens, then dab each area with warm water, then very lightly pat each area dry, then move on to applying the raw, unpasteurized honey to each area.
You do need to dilute the raw honey in very warm or hot water in order to make it much easier to apply, and so it can cover the entire infected area. You'll want to use a new little container to diolute the honey in, and I believe that most people dilute it using a ratio of 1 part honey to 2 parts water. I know that some people do just apply the honey straight onto the skin without diluting it, I suppose you could try it each way and see what works best for you, either way you want to again, just like with the Hibiclens, use a new, clean Q-tip to apply the honey to each different infected patch, and make sure that you cover each entire infected area completely with the honey. This is going to act just like a topical antibiotic cream like Neosporin does, so obviously you do not want to rinse it off or pat it dry, just apply a very light, thin layer of it to each affected area. I FOUND WHEN I USED IT ON MYSELF THAT THE ADVANTAGE TO DILUTING THE RAW HONEY IN VERY WARM WATER WAS THAT THIS ALLOWED THE HONEY TO ACTUALLY ALMOST DRY, AND AS A RESULT MY SKIN WAS NOT AS STICKY AND HAD NO ACTUAL HONEY ON IT'S SURFACE. You can play around with this and see what works best for you and your beardie, the keys are ensuring you cover the entire infected area with the honey, and that you use a new, clean applicator for each infected area and each time you dip into the honey.
****You only need to actually cover or wrap the very large infected areas with the gauze, like the one on his tail in the photo, and any other large areas that cover a great portion of her skin. Obviously we didn't see every little spot of the infection that she has, but you can, and be sure to apply both the Hibiclens and the raw honey to each little area. The small areas will dry pretty quickly under her lights in her enclosure, while the very large areas will remain much wetter and stickier, and this is why you want to cover those areas with the gauze wrap the best you can. You need to use a non-stick gauze pad or non-stick gauze wrap on each area you're wrapping up, you don't want to wrap the large areas up with gauze that isn't non-stick and have any scabbing that develops pulled off. Since you scrubbed those areas with a brush they are going to scab over, which is good, and will make her much more comfortable when you're applying the Hibiclens and the honey, and just more comfortable in general. I would apply the raw honey twice daily, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon/early evening, but as I already said there is no need to apply the Hibiclens twice a day, once every morning is enough.
***I couldn't tell if she has any infected areas near her eyes or ears, but if she does, you absolutely must be extremely careful not to get any Hibiclens near her eyes or ears, as it is completely safe everywhere else, but if it gets into an eye or ear it can cause damage because it is active for 24 hours, and it can actually damage any mucous membranes or very thin membranes, like an eardrum, because it forms a protective antimicrobial layer on each surface that lasts for 24 hours, and this can stop the eyes from producing tears, and the eardrum from vibrating. So if she has any areas on her face I would not use the Hibiclens on them at all, and just apply the raw honey twice daily.