Hi, welcome to the forum. I'm sorry you're dealing with issues already, but better you get everything straightened out early on than let it go on. We'll need you to answer some questions about your beardie and his enclosure, lighting, and temperatures, along with posting some photos of both him and his setup.
First of all, don't worry about him not eating any greens or veggies, most baby and juvenile beardies don't. If they do it's a bonus, but for the first year of their lives they need lots of good live protein from quality feeder insects, only live ones, like crickets, roaches, Phoenix Worms/Calciworms/Reptiworms/BSFL (all the same thing), or silkworms because they're doing most of their growing. Once they get over a year old they will slowly switch from wanting mostly live insects to mostly greens. But for the first year he needs 3 feeding sessions a day where he is allowed to eat as many live feeder insects as he wants to in a 10-15 minute period. So don't worry about the greens.
How long have you had him now? Most beardies go through a bit of relocation stress for the first week or two, some more than others, where they won't eat or bask, they hide a lot and sleep a lot, and don't like to be handled. So if you've only had him for a week or less than this is most likely the cause.
Ive had him for about a week but like i said earlier, he's been doing fine and acting well
Having an appropriate
UVB light is the most important purchase you'll make for your beardie, as they have very specific UVB requirements and there are limited bulbs out there that are actually adequate for bearded dragons, most UVB lights that are labeled for bearded dragons are not adequate. Without a proper
UVB light he cannot make vitamin D3, cannot absorb any Calcium or other nutrients or nutrition, will become lethargic and lose his appetite, and develop bone density issues like MBD. You never want to buy any lights that are coiled bulbs, they cause a lot of issues with their eyes and skin, and are not strong enough to emit enough UVB for them. Compact bulbs for the most part are also inadequate UVB lights for beardies. They need long flourescent UVB tubes which require a long flourescent tube fixture. They must be at least 10% UVB tubes, we recommend the Reptisun 10.0 UVB tubes (never 5.0), and the Arcadia 12% tubes. They both come in different strengths, the Reptisun 10.0 is either a T8 or the much stronger T5 High-Output UVB tube, the main differences are that the 10.0 T8 cannot penetrate a mesh lid so it must be mounted inside the enclosure and must be within 8" of your beardie on his basking spot unobstructed, while the 10.0 T5 High-Output UVB can penetrate a mesh lid so it can sit on top of a mesh lid and must be within 11" of your beardie on his basking spot. The T8 must be replaced every 6 months, while the T5 High-Output must be replaced every year, even though they will still emit light and appear to be working, they emit no
UVB light after those time periods. UVB cannot ever penetrate glass, no matter how strong, so no glass lids!
What
UVB light are you using (brand, model, type of bulb)? Is it mounted inside the tank or sitting on top of a lid of some kind? Is there any clear plastic cover over the bulb on the fixture? How far away is the bulb from your beardie's basking spot? Does the fixture have a reflector?
As of right now, i'm using the repti sun 10.0 UVB Compact bulb but i'm getting the repti sun 10.0 linear bulb soon. The current uvb light is about 13 inches away from his basking spot. I can temporarily move his spot closer to it until i get the linear bulb though if i need to. i just couldn't find anyone who was able to give me a good distance. The light is sitting on a mesh top.
<<<< there is your most likely problem , if it's a 26W 10%UVB compact in a reflector dome or reflector hood it is not going to be strong enough to provide adequate UVA and UVB at 13 inches from the basking spot.
You need to either move the UV basking spot to about 8 inches away or lower the existing compact (ASSUMING IT"S A 26W version) to get adequate UVA exposure and to get about 190 microW UVB / sqcm.
If it's a 13W version , you need to get beardie to be able bask inside 5 inches from it.
UVA FLUX TOO LOW where dragon is ==> a very lethargic dragon w/ a very poor apetite just in the short term , and neurological problems if this persists , not to mention MVB if UVB flux too low long enough with inadequate metabolisation of dietary calcium or inadequate intake out calcium
What type of bulb are you using as a basking bulb (brand, wattage, is it compact or coiled, color?)
Im using the repti basking spot lamp 100w
Beardies see in color, so colored bulbs of any kind can cause them issues with their vision. The only type of basking bulb (also called a daylight bulb) you want to use is a bright white bulb, no soft white or frosted white, and no blue, yellow, green, red, infrared, etc. No special reptile basking bulb is necessary, most of us use regular bright white household halogen bulbs, or regular household halogen indoor flood bulbs.
Have you measured the temperatures inside his enclosure yet? What is the temperature on his basking spot, on the Hot Side of the enclosure (surrounding the basking spot), and on the opposite Cool Side of the enclosure? What type of thermometer are you using to measure his temps?
His basking spot is usually between 90-100 and i'm using the thermometer that came with the tank until i get one today when i go to the pet store
Those cheap, round, gauge thermometers that all of the kits come with are literally worthless, they can be off as much as 20 degrees and most are. Also, it is impossible to measure the temperature of the basking spot with one of those. You need to buy either a temperature gun, or even better are the digital thermometers that have a probe on a wire that you can move right to specific spots in his tank to get accurate temperatures. They cost only $8-$9, and I use 2 of them in each enclosure, one I keep zip tied to the basking spot, the other I use to measure the Hot and Cool Sides by simply moving the probe. Remember, it's very important that you allow the probe to sit for 20-30 minutes before reading the temperature, and you must do this each time you move it. Without proper temps inside his enclosure, your beardie cannot digest his food and cannot find a place to cool down. Proper temperature zones for a baby are:
Basking Spot (baby/juvenile): between 105-110 absolute maximum, (subadults/adult): 100-103
Hot Side (ambient on basking spot side): between 88-93
Cool Side: between 75-80 absolute maximum for him to be able to cool down
Nighttime Temperature: They need it to cool down in order to sleep comfortably, just like it does in the desert. Most people need no nighttime heat source at all. As long as the ambient temperature in the enclosure at night is at 65 degrees or above, you absolutely need no nighttime heat source at all.
All of his lights get turned off at night, i have them on a timer that's 12/12
Too short, he thinks it's winter , as 12hr is about the hours of daylight in winter in their natural range in winter. I recommend nudging this up to 15-16 hrs per day.
If for some reason your house drops below 60 degrees at night (remember, his enclosure is warmer than your house, so if your house is at 60, his enclosure temp is fine), you never want to use any type of light as a nighttime heat source. Again, most people need no nighttime heat source, but if his enclosure drops below 65 degrees at night, you'll want to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE), which is a coiled black piece of iron that screws into a regular lightbulb fixture. It emits heat but no light. Never use any colored lights or even white lights at night, no infrared, red, black, "moonlight", blue, green, yellow, purple, etc.
