What should I be feeding my beardie, how much and how often?

[cburns32]

You know I really don't understand why people feed their bearded dragon as much as he/she will eat in 10-15 minutes 10-20 crix is fine thats how much I feed Mushu who is 9 months old, think about it bearded dragons are native to semi arid/arid environments food will be pretty scarce bearded dragons in the wild aren't going to get a constant supply of crickets are they? I would love to spoil Mushu like that but whats the point it's just a waste of money and it's obviously not needed.

From my understanding, most bearded dragons are pretty good with knowing how much is enough (most will not overeat). I always feed my bearded dragon as much as he will eat (he usually stops within five minutes, but he eats about 75 Reptiworms per feeding), and he's perfectly happy and healthy, and much larger lengthwise than most his age. I suppose the real question is how one would know if 10 to 20 crickets is fine, and whether or not this is enough. I would assume most bearded dragons know more about themselves as any of us could know about them. However, perhaps 10 to 20 crickets are enough for your bearded dragon, personally. I don't mean to say anything other than the fact that bearded dragons typically know how much they can eat.

Additionally, yes, bearded dragons in the wild are not getting a constant supply of crickets. But I suppose that brings up the fact that most bearded dragons in the wild live for about 3-5 years. Most captive bearded dragons can live anywhere from 5-8 years, some over ten. I would assume availability of food for growth and survival, as well as other environmental factors may contribute to the near double increase in years.

Otherwise, yes, I agree that feeders are very expensive. I go through about $80 or so every month.

As for the topic creator's questions, crickets and superworms are both viable staples. Each have their pros and cons (which have been addressed pretty nicely so far). There are a lot of different types of feeders that many will suggest to use or avoid, but you can't really go wrong with a little variety. Some other staples you could consider are black soldier fly larvae (under the brand names of Reptiworms, Phoenix Worms, and Calciworms), certain types of worms (silk worms, hornworms, etc.), or certain types of roaches (dubia, most commonly suggested).

I think I am going to stick with grabbing about 100 crickets from the local pet store here in town and order some hornworms and reptiworms and kind of work from there. Does anyone know a hornworm to cricket ratio or reptiworm to cricket ratio (like 1 hornworm = 20 crickets)???

I am currently feeding him the large crickets from the local pet store, anywhere from 3/4" to 1" long. So if you all could just give me an idea on a ratio that'd help my decision in how many to purchase both hornworm and reptiworm. Also would the large reptiworms be fine for my 15" long beardie?

 

[diamc]

Well, the ratio of a hornworm to crickets, depends on the size of the hornworm. I've heard that a full grown 4" horn is equal to about 20 crickets or so. Hornworms eat a lot and grow very fast so I usually order small and medium sizes. They come in a cup with chow that will last them approximately 2 wks if not fed off. You might not want to get too many horns for just one beardie so you might want to just get one cup.

The reptiworms are VERY small so it would take quite a few of them to be equal to one cricket, perhaps 15 to 25 so again, it depends on the size the worms and also what size crickets you are feeding. The small ones are very small and the large ones change into the flying stage very quickly so you might want to order the medium sized ones. Hope this helps some.

 

[Kaiser]

You know I really don't understand why people feed their bearded dragon as much as he/she will eat in 10-15 minutes 10-20 crix is fine thats how much I feed Mushu who is 9 months old, think about it bearded dragons are native to semi arid/arid environments food will be pretty scarce bearded dragons in the wild aren't going to get a constant supply of crickets are they? I would love to spoil Mushu like that but whats the point it's just a waste of money and it's obviously not needed.

From my understanding, most bearded dragons are pretty good with knowing how much is enough (most will not overeat). I always feed my bearded dragon as much as he will eat (he usually stops within five minutes, but he eats about 75 Reptiworms per feeding), and he's perfectly happy and healthy, and much larger lengthwise than most his age. I suppose the real question is how one would know if 10 to 20 crickets is fine, and whether or not this is enough. I would assume most bearded dragons know more about themselves as any of us could know about them. However, perhaps 10 to 20 crickets are enough for your bearded dragon, personally. I don't mean to say anything other than the fact that bearded dragons typically know how much they can eat.

Additionally, yes, bearded dragons in the wild are not getting a constant supply of crickets. But I suppose that brings up the fact that most bearded dragons in the wild live for about 3-5 years. Most captive bearded dragons can live anywhere from 5-8 years, some over ten. I would assume availability of food for growth and survival, as well as other environmental factors may contribute to the near double increase in years.

Otherwise, yes, I agree that feeders are very expensive. I go through about $80 or so every month.

As for the topic creator's questions, crickets and superworms are both viable staples. Each have their pros and cons (which have been addressed pretty nicely so far). There are a lot of different types of feeders that many will suggest to use or avoid, but you can't really go wrong with a little variety. Some other staples you could consider are black soldier fly larvae (under the brand names of Reptiworms, Phoenix Worms, and Calciworms), certain types of worms (silk worms, hornworms, etc.), or certain types of roaches (dubia, most commonly suggested).

Yes it is true that bearded dragons in the wild do have shorter life spans because of possibly the lack of food so their still not going to find 20 crickets in the wild are they? in fact they may go through a day without crickets (when their a juvy or sub-adult of course).

I think the question then becomes whether or not being in the wild and being in captivity can be compared. Bearded dragons also have predators in the wild. Just because they have predators in the wild, does not mean you should introduce predators to your captive bearded dragon. They also may or may not have clean water in the wild. Does that mean one should devoid them of clean water, because they may not have access to that in the wild? I don't mean to start an argument or anything. I've just recently been discussing with someone about pets and captivity in general, and this sparked my interest.

As for your question, cburns32, the Reptiworms are small. Even the "large sizes" are relatively small. Your bearded dragon shouldn't have any problems with handling them, but he will certainly go through a lot of them. My bearded dragon goes through about 150 or more large Reptiworms a day. If you can keep the Reptiworms in a relatively cool setting (approximately 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), then the large ones can last for quite a while before turning into flies (though the flies are perfectly feedable as well). I've had a bucket of 5,000 Reptiworms in a cool setting for a little over a month, and didn't have any turn into a fly (or at least, I didn't find any...).

 

[izz]

Mine has never eated 100 crickets,that is toooooo much for him??

 

[Kaiser]

Mine has never eated 100 crickets,that is toooooo much for him??

It's highly variable, depending on the bearded dragon itself, age and size, health conditions, etc. Some will eat 30 a day, others will eat well over 100 (and of course, there are the outliers and the ones in between). I think the important thing to note is that even though their appetites vary, these ranges are usually determined by the bearded dragon itself (within a 10-15 minute time interval). Of course, it's just a commonly suggested rule of thumb.

 

[cburns32]

Well, the ratio of a hornworm to crickets, depends on the size of the hornworm. I've heard that a full grown 4" horn is equal to about 20 crickets or so. Hornworms eat a lot and grow very fast so I usually order small and medium sizes. They come in a cup with chow that will last them approximately 2 wks if not fed off. You might not want to get too many horns for just one beardie so you might want to just get one cup.

The reptiworms are VERY small so it would take quite a few of them to be equal to one cricket, perhaps 15 to 25 so again, it depends on the size the worms and also what size crickets you are feeding. The small ones are very small and the large ones change into the flying stage very quickly so you might want to order the medium sized ones. Hope this helps some.

As for your question, cburns32, the Reptiworms are small. Even the "large sizes" are relatively small. Your bearded dragon shouldn't have any problems with handling them, but he will certainly go through a lot of them. My bearded dragon goes through about 150 or more large Reptiworms a day. If you can keep the Reptiworms in a relatively cool setting (approximately 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), then the large ones can last for quite a while before turning into flies (though the flies are perfectly feedable as well). I've had a bucket of 5,000 Reptiworms in a cool setting for a little over a month, and didn't have any turn into a fly (or at least, I didn't find any...).

I think I'll go with a medium size cup of hornworms along with some crickets from the local petstore and maybe I'll go ahead and order 500 reptiworms to get some variety. I'll feed him horns, reptis, crickets and supers over the next few weeks and determine what he likes best and what works best for me I suppose. The crickets I feed now are 3/4" to 1" long; I would order medium horns, medium/large reptis and large supers. If I continue with reptis I'll invest in a wine/beer cooler.

 

[Joshandmushu]

You know I really don't understand why people feed their bearded dragon as much as he/she will eat in 10-15 minutes 10-20 crix is fine thats how much I feed Mushu who is 9 months old, think about it bearded dragons are native to semi arid/arid environments food will be pretty scarce bearded dragons in the wild aren't going to get a constant supply of crickets are they? I would love to spoil Mushu like that but whats the point it's just a waste of money and it's obviously not needed.

From my understanding, most bearded dragons are pretty good with knowing how much is enough (most will not overeat). I always feed my bearded dragon as much as he will eat (he usually stops within five minutes, but he eats about 75 Reptiworms per feeding), and he's perfectly happy and healthy, and much larger lengthwise than most his age. I suppose the real question is how one would know if 10 to 20 crickets is fine, and whether or not this is enough. I would assume most bearded dragons know more about themselves as any of us could know about them. However, perhaps 10 to 20 crickets are enough for your bearded dragon, personally. I don't mean to say anything other than the fact that bearded dragons typically know how much they can eat.

Additionally, yes, bearded dragons in the wild are not getting a constant supply of crickets. But I suppose that brings up the fact that most bearded dragons in the wild live for about 3-5 years. Most captive bearded dragons can live anywhere from 5-8 years, some over ten. I would assume availability of food for growth and survival, as well as other environmental factors may contribute to the near double increase in years.

Otherwise, yes, I agree that feeders are very expensive. I go through about $80 or so every month.

As for the topic creator's questions, crickets and superworms are both viable staples. Each have their pros and cons (which have been addressed pretty nicely so far). There are a lot of different types of feeders that many will suggest to use or avoid, but you can't really go wrong with a little variety. Some other staples you could consider are black soldier fly larvae (under the brand names of Reptiworms, Phoenix Worms, and Calciworms), certain types of worms (silk worms, hornworms, etc.), or certain types of roaches (dubia, most commonly suggested).

Yes it is true that bearded dragons in the wild do have shorter life spans because of possibly the lack of food so their still not going to find 20 crickets in the wild are they? in fact they may go through a day without crickets (when their a juvy or sub-adult of course).

I think the question then becomes whether or not being in the wild and being in captivity can be compared. Bearded dragons also have predators in the wild. Just because they have predators in the wild, does not mean you should introduce predators to your captive bearded dragon. They also may or may not have clean water in the wild. Does that mean one should devoid them of clean water, because they may not have access to that in the wild? I don't mean to start an argument or anything. I've just recently been discussing with someone about pets and captivity in general, and this sparked my interest.

As for your question, cburns32, the Reptiworms are small. Even the "large sizes" are relatively small. Your bearded dragon shouldn't have any problems with handling them, but he will certainly go through a lot of them. My bearded dragon goes through about 150 or more large Reptiworms a day. If you can keep the Reptiworms in a relatively cool setting (approximately 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), then the large ones can last for quite a while before turning into flies (though the flies are perfectly feedable as well). I've had a bucket of 5,000 Reptiworms in a cool setting for a little over a month, and didn't have any turn into a fly (or at least, I didn't find any...).

I'm not suggesting I give my boy a bird of prey to play with :lol: I'm just saying it's not necessary to completely fill up your bearded dragon unless you want him to grow huge as fast as possible but wouldn't you want to see him grow slowly to enjoy him in the different stages? and I no your not starting an argument don't worry.

 

[George]

Does anyone feed their beardies locust? It's just I have read this thread and no-one has mentioned locust. Are they ok to feed beardies? As Charlie loves them.

 

[Kaiser]

I'm not suggesting I give my boy a bird of prey to play with :lol: I'm just saying it's not necessary to completely fill up your bearded dragon unless you want him to grow huge as fast as possible but wouldn't you want to see him grow slowly to enjoy him in the different stages? and I no your not starting an argument don't worry.

Thanks for understanding. But from what I understand, bearded dragon's do not reach set stages at different times; they're growth is based on their diet and lifestyle at certain points in their life. For instance, bearded dragons need lots of protein when they are younger (approximately prior to one year). If you provide lots of protein during the first year, they have a better chance of reaching their "maximum potential." If you do not feed your bearded dragon lots of protein during its first year, it will be smaller in size (not to mention any other possible health factors; but that's not to say this is always the case, unless they're being severely underfed). Bearded dragons undergo the most growth within this first year; they do not gradually grow over time at a fixed rate. This is analogous to humans, I would assume. Most individuals undergo rapid growth during their early and mid-teen years, during puberty. If they don't have the proper amounts or optimal amounts necessary, they won't grow as much. Once humans become adults, no matter your diet, you probably won't be growing as rapidly as you would in your teen years. The same technically applies to bearded dragons. So it's not like one would see the bearded dragon growing slowly during different stages (that is, it's not like if you feed it less, it will grow slower overtime for you to enjoy watching it grow and eventually hit the same size as a more heartily fed bearded dragon); it would be more like a bearded dragon growing slowly throughout its life, and eventually hitting a lesser size (and, as mentioned before, if severely underfed, may cause health problems) and no longer growing. This is opposed to a bearded dragon growing rapidly at the opportune moment, and then reaching as close to its maximum potential as possible.

But I suppose my point isn't necessarily based on size; I'm sure not everyone wants a big bearded dragon, nor is a big bearded dragon any better than a small one. My point is simply that by limiting a bearded dragon's food intake, one may be unknowingly underfeeding their bearded dragon to the point of causing health issues further down the road. Once again, this is not meant to accuse you that you are underfeeding, as each bearded dragon is different, and it may very well be enough for your specific bearded dragon. This is just to provide some explanation as to why people suggest feeding as much as a bearded dragon will consume within ten to fifteen minutes (where the time length is included for those bearded dragons who may actually overeat).

Does anyone feed their beardies locust? It's just I have read this thread and no-one has mentioned locust. Are they ok to feed beardies? As Charlie loves them.

I'm pretty sure quite a few people feed their bearded dragons locusts. From what I have heard, they are fine to feed to your bearded dragons, and can be used as staples.

 

[Joshandmushu]

I'm not suggesting I give my boy a bird of prey to play with :lol: I'm just saying it's not necessary to completely fill up your bearded dragon unless you want him to grow huge as fast as possible but wouldn't you want to see him grow slowly to enjoy him in the different stages? and I no your not starting an argument don't worry.

Thanks for understanding. But from what I understand, bearded dragon's do not reach set stages at different times; they're growth is based on their diet and lifestyle at certain points in their life. For instance, bearded dragons need lots of protein when they are younger (approximately prior to one year). If you provide lots of protein during the first year, they have a better chance of reaching their "maximum potential." If you do not feed your bearded dragon lots of protein during its first year, it will be smaller in size (not to mention any other possible health factors; but that's not to say this is always the case, unless they're being severely underfed). Bearded dragons undergo the most growth within this first year; they do not gradually grow over time at a fixed rate. This is analogous to humans, I would assume. Most individuals undergo rapid growth during their early and mid-teen years, during puberty. If they don't have the proper amounts or optimal amounts necessary, they won't grow as much. Once humans become adults, no matter your diet, you probably won't be growing as rapidly as you would in your teen years. The same technically applies to bearded dragons. So it's not like one would see the bearded dragon growing slowly during different stages (that is, it's not like if you feed it less, it will grow slower overtime for you to enjoy watching it grow and eventually hit the same size as a more heartily fed bearded dragon); it would be more like a bearded dragon growing slowly throughout its life, and eventually hitting a lesser size (and, as mentioned before, if severely underfed, may cause health problems) and no longer growing. This is opposed to a bearded dragon growing rapidly at the opportune moment, and then reaching as close to its maximum potential as possible.

But I suppose my point isn't necessarily based on size; I'm sure not everyone wants a big bearded dragon, nor is a big bearded dragon any better than a small one. My point is simply that by limiting a bearded dragon's food intake, one may be unknowingly underfeeding their bearded dragon to the point of causing health issues further down the road. Once again, this is not meant to accuse you that you are underfeeding, as each bearded dragon is different, and it may very well be enough for your specific bearded dragon. This is just to provide some explanation as to why people suggest feeding as much as a bearded dragon will consume within ten to fifteen minutes (where the time length is included for those bearded dragons who may actually overeat).

Does anyone feed their beardies locust? It's just I have read this thread and no-one has mentioned locust. Are they ok to feed beardies? As Charlie loves them.

I'm pretty sure quite a few people feed their bearded dragons locusts. From what I have heard, they are fine to feed to your bearded dragons, and can be used as staples.

Yeah I guess it's possible you could unknowingly be underfeeding your dragon, is there any way to tell for instance could weight be an indicator? If so Mushu's round about the 200g mark. By the way thanks for being so helpful and informative, so if you don't mind could you answer a couple of my topics and questions that have been left unanswered please.
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=143356
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=143079&start=15
And heres some pics of Mushu on this topic.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=143358

 

[techdave]

When I got Tiamat, the breeder told me to only feed him about 12 crix a day. At about 6-7 months I was concerned because he was really small, I was told on here that he needs A LOT more. I started feeding him more and his size shot up. He's about a year and a half now, not sure if he ever gained his full potential.
I agree with feeding as much as he can twice a day as much as he can eat.

Don't forget the proper calcium. (Another of my mistakes.)

 

[LotusEyed]

So what would you guys recommend for a very young beardie, about 6-7 inches in length? I know that juveniles are almost primarily insectivores and you usually don't start introducing greens until they get a bit bigger. Right now I'm feeding my juvenile ad libitum a mixture of different insects. I've been giving him the dried, euthanized ones and he accepts them. I'm just not sure if I should set up a feeding schedule or just allow him to choose when to eat throughout the day. He definitely isn't sitting at his bowl stuffing his face - he walks over, eats a few bites, then does something else for a while, and goes back to the bowl. Just wondering because I've never cared for a beardie that I didn't have starting at already a foot in length and I want to do right by my new baby.

 

[Kaiser]

Yeah I guess it's possible you could unknowingly be underfeeding your dragon, is there any way to tell for instance could weight be an indicator? If so Mushu's round about the 200g mark. By the way thanks for being so helpful and informative, so if you don't mind could you answer a couple of my topics and questions that have been left unanswered please.
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=143356
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=143079&start=15
And heres some pics of Mushu on this topic.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=143358

Weight, in comparison to lengths (and possibly ages) of other comparable bearded dragons can be used to possibly identify whether or not your bearded dragon is being underfed. Though each bearded dragon's genetics vary, as do their sizes. But if there are significant differences, you might be able to catch instances of malnutritonal. Provided are a few links with growth charts for comparison: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Growth.html and http://www.dachiu.com/care/charts.html. Though please note that differences in weight, size, etc. are not necessarily indicators of being underfed, or whatnot.

Additionally, I hear you can tell whether or not a bearded dragon is being well fed or underfed by the girth of the bearded dragon's base of their tail. A well-rounded, plump base usually indicates a healthy and well-fed bearded dragon. If it's skinny, or does not appear to be filled-out, it may be an indicator that they could use a little more protein and/or fat in their diet.

And you're welcome. Thank you for considering some of my advice and being open to different techniques in husbandry. I will take a look at some of those links and reply, if I have anything to say or if I have any knowledge about the particular topic.

EDIT: Unfortunately, I do not know the answer to those topics, as I have never fed locusts to my bearded dragon (and have not read anywhere about a comparison), though I would assume they're relatively similar? Not sure, however. Additionally, I don't know particularly when head growth is most prominent, though most of a bearded dragon's growth occurs during the first year and a half, or so, of their life. And your bearded dragon has a lovely color, and I do not notice any significant lack of weight. Though he could probably fill out more, particularly based on the size of the base of his tail. He looks relatively healthy, though diet is often a long term health concern, and it may take a while before you notice any significant changes.

When I got Tiamat, the breeder told me to only feed him about 12 crix a day. At about 6-7 months I was concerned because he was really small, I was told on here that he needs A LOT more. I started feeding him more and his size shot up. He's about a year and a half now, not sure if he ever gained his full potential.
I agree with feeding as much as he can twice a day as much as he can eat.

Don't forget the proper calcium. (Another of my mistakes.)

Thanks for your input. As long as he is healthy and happy, I don't really think size matters all too much. Just glad that you were told to feed him more, and that you took the advice. :]

So what would you guys recommend for a very young beardie, about 6-7 inches in length? I know that juveniles are almost primarily insectivores and you usually don't start introducing greens until they get a bit bigger. Right now I'm feeding my juvenile ad libitum a mixture of different insects. I've been giving him the dried, euthanized ones and he accepts them. I'm just not sure if I should set up a feeding schedule or just allow him to choose when to eat throughout the day. He definitely isn't sitting at his bowl stuffing his face - he walks over, eats a few bites, then does something else for a while, and goes back to the bowl. Just wondering because I've never cared for a beardie that I didn't have starting at already a foot in length and I want to do right by my new baby.

I would recommend the commonly suggested: as many live feeders as your bearded dragon will eat within ten to fifteen minutes, two to three times a day. Greens should be introduced and offered every day, even though they may not eat it. Offering them greens at an early age will help them associate it to something they can eat, and some may even take to eating greens at a young age. I highly suggest replacing the dead, dried feeders with live feeders, as the dead, dried feeders lose a lot of their nutritional value and appeal when compared to live feeders. Live feeders are healthier and provide more nutritional content necessary for growing (and even into adulthood) bearded dragons. You can use the dried, prepared meals in emergencies where you cannot get live feeders, but it is generally best to provide live feeders.

If you feel your bearded dragon is capable of properly gauging how much it eats (which is the case for most bearded dragons), then you may leave certain worms in a dish to be eaten throughout the day (worms viable as staples include: black soldier fly larvae, under the brand names of "Reptiworms" or "Phoenix Worms"; hornworms; silkworms). Avoid using mealworms, whether alive or dead, as they have been known to cause impactions in bearded dragons due to their hard, outer shells. Avoid using superworms (unless your bearded dragon is at least 16 inches in length; though micro superworms have been suggested as viable for smaller bearded dragons), and you can feed waxworms sparingly, as a treat or in cases of weight-loss or lack of weight.

If you plan on using crickets or roaches, on the other hand, you should not leave the live feeders within the terrarium throughout the day, as they can bother your bearded dragon, and in the case of crickets (not sure about all the types of roaches, so hopefully someone can clarify if it's safe to leave roaches in the terrarium), crickets can bite and try to feed on your bearded dragon if left unattended. As suggested, feed your bearded dragon as many as it will eat within ten to fifteen minutes, two to three times a day.

 

[luvthebeardies]

The idea of having them as a pet is to give them the best life possible and the healthiest. In the wild they may very well not get enough, which is why they oftne times die much sooner than a well cared for pet. The baby I just got will have exactly what he needs to make sure he grows at a safe rate for his little bones and body to support. He will have all the nourishment he requires. Not what he would get if her were in the wild. The fact is, he is NOT in the wild. He is in my home and under my care. I owe it to him to love and nourish him and have him grow and be healthy. I will not try and see how fast he can grow as it is not healthy to grow too fast for his bones to support. I do not seem to sound so irritated but all the comments about wasting money on crickets when that is not what they have in the wild just lit a fire with me.

 

[George]

Thank you for answering, Locust seem to be the only things she will eat. Charlie used to eat crickets, but now doesn't seem to like them at all.