uvb question??????? please answer!!!!!

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mazais

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ok, so i have 40 gal tank, and i have 2 light fixtures with a 15 watt reptisun in each fixture.(both fixtures and bulbs are 18" so there is uvb all over the tank.) my beardies can get 7 inches from bulbs. is this a good uvb setup? i couldnt find a fixture for a 36" long bulb, or a 36" long reptisun, so i just went with this setup... but does it matter what wattage the bulb is? or does uvb just have to be all over the tank? :? :blob8:
 

mazais

Member
Original Poster
i have 2 18" light fixtures with a reptisun 10.0 in each, 18" + 18" = 36", so it covers the whole tank. ( i cannot mount inside tank :( ) :blob8:
 

XiDiS

Juvie Member
You only need to use one of those lights. UVB should cover at least 1/2 of the tank. Personaly i would turn one off and save the bulb as a spare. Why cant they be mounted in the tank? Because if they mounted on top through a screen you will lose 50% of your UVB
 
Two 18" bulbs covering a 36" length tank sounds good to me, as long as you have proper hide areas for your beardie to be able to escape the uvb rays when they need to.

A lot of people on this forum seem to repeat the 'one half to 3/4 of tank for uvb light, but all the research I read on the subject made me choose a 36" tube for my 36" tank. Flourescent bulbs have a narrow field dispersement of light rays.

I like that you went with two 18" bulbs as it is easier to excite the electrons in an 18" length more evenly than it is in 36" length tube.
 

w0554096

Juvie Member
Hello,
Having the whole tank covered with UVB is great, but like the previous poster said you'd would be fine with just 1/2 of the tank being covered, so technically could shut off one bulb and save it so you've got a new one when this one is done.

I also don't understand why you can't mount it inside? There's many ways to do this that are all cheap and easy.
Right now you're losing 50-60% of the UVB emitted by filtering it through the screen.
 
Not sure why the original poster chooses not to mount under the tank.

However, I choose not to mount the UVB tube inside the cage, because of the height. My tank is 36x18x16". My Beardie is very active and constantly jumping at the top of the tank (when he was in his 30x12x12 tank I'd constantly find him with his claws hooked over the top edge). To me, the odds are too high that he could accidentally come in contact with the bulb causing it to shatter (which could possibly impale him with glass shards) or he could get burned by coming in brief contact with the bulb.

Yes, I could engineer a safety barrier of wire framing the light and remove all climbing areas from the tank to make a bulb mounted in the tank safer, but doing that does not eliminate the chance of injury happening. My beardie loves to climb and bask. It would be a significant diminished quality of life to remove all climbing limbs and basking rocks from his home. If signs of MBD do appear I will re-think this.

However, even then my first response would be to cut the screen, on the top of the cage, under my ZooMed 36" fixture and Reptisun 36" 10.0v bulb. And again the fact that I am using a hood with a mounted reflector so that the rays from the top and side of the bulb are bounced off the reflector angling them down into the tank increases the amount available in the tank (the photos of all the fixtures mounted sideways on the top back of the tank causes me concern for the human eyes that are being exposed to them).

The UK site http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm provides some interesting reading on this subject. However, I gained much more scientific data from reading all the source articles quoted. :study: For example, one of the pages ends with a warning about 'excessive uvb.' However, the source material only references 'excessive uvb' being recorded in mammals NOT reptiles (different skin structure plus shedding). Plus there is the issue of the different voltage in the UK. Meaning the voltage (power) excites the electrons in the tube. Given the different voltage here in the US a change in readings is to be assumed (thus you might notice the ZooMed packaging being used here in the US is actually the UK packaging specifying a different wattage than is imprinted on the actual bulb).

The source material on the UK site has a reference to the filtering of a screen top. I believe the source material quotes 30% filtering with variances arising from the mesh of the screen. Thus a top with fine mesh window screen filters more than the wide mesh of a reptile screen top. I have not been able to find any vet journals or dissertations reporting the 50% that gets thrown out so much.

I have also found ZooMed is quite good at responding to questions by email. I'm trying to get them to find a physics major at Cal Poly to test the bulbs in the lab (I did my Physics degree at UCSB but also toured Cal Poly before making my decision where to go). I'm also contacting former peers to see if I can find someone working in a lab with equipment. I'd love to do my own experiments, but at last I am a poor slave who can't afford to buy all the different bulbs and don't trust the readings from the cheaper handheld UVB meters. :(

I guess, at this point, for me I have to trust the biological influences my Beardie has. If he needs light it is there, spanning the width of his cage. If he needs less he has his hides to get out of the light.
 
Here is the Amazon link for the 36" hood
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UV8T90/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The general, assumption from the incorrect description on amazon for this bulb is that the 36 watt is the 48" width and the 30 watt is the 36" width. Per ZooMed all bulbs sold in the US are a maximum of 25 watts. They are just using up all the European packaging materials that display different wattages.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun%C2%AE-Fluorescent-36-Inch/dp/B001F97J86/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_y

I just bought my bulb at the local reptile store rather than risk having to deal with an exchange.
 

mazais

Member
Original Poster
i already have 2 spares... so i dont need to do that. i agree with skateanddonate, i cant have the uvb bulbs mounted sideways, and even if i could, i really am afraid it would fall on my beardies, or damage my or even my beardies eyes. but ive had this setup with the uvb bulb on top of the screen for 7 months now- and no problems. 1 month ago, i upgraded my tank, but kept the same uvb setup (except for adding another uvb bulb) and it should be fine. Also, can beardies tell when they need uvb? because mine go onto thier repti-hammock where they can get 6" from the uvb light, at a certain time of day, every day. which is wierd. :blob8:
 
I would ASSume yes. Although what I've read about their third eye (that different colored scale on top of their head between the eyes, a bit back) only references it in regarded to registering uva light and knowing when to come out and bask and when to seek shelter to sleep.
 

mazais

Member
Original Poster
Wow... That's cool! But, is it normal if my beardies don't like temps higher than 100 f? When the temps are higher then they go to the cool side and hang out there until the temps get a bit lower. But, it might be that they just aren't used to higher temps because I got them in the fall, and it never really got higher than 100, but now it's getting warmer outside and inside so its getting warmer in their tank, and today it got up to 103, and they aren't used to that.
 

mazais

Member
Original Poster
Wow... That's cool! But, is it normal if my beardies don't like temps higher than 100 f? When the temps are higher then they go to the cool side and hang out there until the temps get a bit lower. But, it might be that they just aren't used to higher temps because I got them in the fall, and it never really got higher than 100, but now it's getting warmer outside and inside so its getting warmer in their tank, and today it got up to 103, and they prob aren't used to that. :blob8:
 
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