My Bearded Dragon threw up all her crickets and I haven't fed her today she won't eat her veggies and I attempted to give her a cricket and she just ignored it. One thing I did notice is the temps aren't getting up to 105 F in the basking area I'm using a Repta Sun Full Spectrum Neodymium Daylight Bulb and its 100 watts and the UVB bulb is like 2 days old. She also was placed with me 2 days ago from people that had her for 3 Years so she is a bit stressed.
Threw Up...
- Thread starter hunter94
- Start date
- Status
Hi! Sorry to hear that your little one isn't feeling too well. However, if you just brought her into a new home, it isn't at all unusual that she's refusing to eat for you.
All Bearded Dragons are creatures of habit and routine, and they become very stressed when moved to a new home, with new people and new surroundings, especially if they're no longer babies. They find any changes in their lives very upsetting, and it may take at least a week or two for her to begin to relax enough to eat for you as she should. This is perfectly normal, so try not to worry overly much about her appetite right now, as long as she seems healthy otherwise.
You mentioned that she threw up all of her crickets.....were these crickets that she ate while she was in your care, or were these crickets that she ate before you brought her home? If she ate them while she was still with her prior owner, it could be that all of the stress of moving her simply upset her stomach and made her sick.
Beardies can get an upset stomach, or indigestion, just like people do, if they are under a lot of stress. If she ate the crickets after you brought her home, her upset stomach could be just from stress, or from the fact that her basking temps aren't up as high as they should be, in order to allow her to digest her food properly, or a combination of both.
My advice would be to let her stomach rest for at least 24 hours before you attempt to feed her again, just to make sure that, if she does eat, she doesn't bring everything right back up again. I would also advise giving her a 20 minute soak in very warm water, with some Pedialyte added to it, which will replenish any electrolytes that she may have lost from vomiting, and will also keep her well hydrated. Even if she doesn't drink while in her bath, beardies have the ability to absorb any fluid that their bodies need through their vent area, so giving her a long soak is an excellent way to keep her well hydrated if she is refusing to eat for you.
If she seems frightened when you put her in the water, you don't need to make it very deep at all....as long as her vent area is under water, her body will absorb all it needs. Once her bath is over, be sure to dry her well before returning her to her tank.
As far as the stress is concerned, once you get her rehydrated, try not to handle her too much right now,if you don't have to. Let her calm down and become used to her new tank and new surroundings for a few days. Its fine to sit near her tank and talk to her, so that she gets used to your voice and scent, or even to put your hand in her tank, but allow her to come to you, rather than forcing the issue by chasing her around trying to pick her up. If you talk softly and treat her kindly, she'll realize soon enough that you mean her no harm, and she should bond to you fairly quickly, given a bit of time.
As far as her tank temps are concerned, you need to get the temps on her basking site up to at least 105 to 110 degrees, in order for her to digest her food properly.
The lights that you are using are fine, but you may have to put some sort of a high basking rock in her tank to bring her closer to her lights, in order to get her basking temps up to that level. The best way to ensure that she has adequate temps for basking, in order to digest her food, is to invest in a digital thermometer with a probe on it. You can pick one up at any Walmart for about $12. Place the digital portion of the thermometer on the floor of her tank, on the cooler side. The temps there should be between 75 to 85 degrees. Attach the probe directly to the surface that she's basking on, so that you are actually measuring the temperature that is up against her stomach while she is digesting her food, and not the temperature of the air around it. The acual surface that she's basking on should be betwwe 105 and 110 degrees.
Once you get her stomach settled down, and she begins to relax and isn't so stressed, and you get her basking temps up to where they belong, she should be just fine in a week or two, once she's settled into her new home. In the meantime, please keep us posted, and if you have any other questions, or need further help, please feel free to ask, and all of us will be glad to help you, if we can!
All Bearded Dragons are creatures of habit and routine, and they become very stressed when moved to a new home, with new people and new surroundings, especially if they're no longer babies. They find any changes in their lives very upsetting, and it may take at least a week or two for her to begin to relax enough to eat for you as she should. This is perfectly normal, so try not to worry overly much about her appetite right now, as long as she seems healthy otherwise.
You mentioned that she threw up all of her crickets.....were these crickets that she ate while she was in your care, or were these crickets that she ate before you brought her home? If she ate them while she was still with her prior owner, it could be that all of the stress of moving her simply upset her stomach and made her sick.
Beardies can get an upset stomach, or indigestion, just like people do, if they are under a lot of stress. If she ate the crickets after you brought her home, her upset stomach could be just from stress, or from the fact that her basking temps aren't up as high as they should be, in order to allow her to digest her food properly, or a combination of both.
My advice would be to let her stomach rest for at least 24 hours before you attempt to feed her again, just to make sure that, if she does eat, she doesn't bring everything right back up again. I would also advise giving her a 20 minute soak in very warm water, with some Pedialyte added to it, which will replenish any electrolytes that she may have lost from vomiting, and will also keep her well hydrated. Even if she doesn't drink while in her bath, beardies have the ability to absorb any fluid that their bodies need through their vent area, so giving her a long soak is an excellent way to keep her well hydrated if she is refusing to eat for you.
If she seems frightened when you put her in the water, you don't need to make it very deep at all....as long as her vent area is under water, her body will absorb all it needs. Once her bath is over, be sure to dry her well before returning her to her tank.
As far as the stress is concerned, once you get her rehydrated, try not to handle her too much right now,if you don't have to. Let her calm down and become used to her new tank and new surroundings for a few days. Its fine to sit near her tank and talk to her, so that she gets used to your voice and scent, or even to put your hand in her tank, but allow her to come to you, rather than forcing the issue by chasing her around trying to pick her up. If you talk softly and treat her kindly, she'll realize soon enough that you mean her no harm, and she should bond to you fairly quickly, given a bit of time.
As far as her tank temps are concerned, you need to get the temps on her basking site up to at least 105 to 110 degrees, in order for her to digest her food properly.
The lights that you are using are fine, but you may have to put some sort of a high basking rock in her tank to bring her closer to her lights, in order to get her basking temps up to that level. The best way to ensure that she has adequate temps for basking, in order to digest her food, is to invest in a digital thermometer with a probe on it. You can pick one up at any Walmart for about $12. Place the digital portion of the thermometer on the floor of her tank, on the cooler side. The temps there should be between 75 to 85 degrees. Attach the probe directly to the surface that she's basking on, so that you are actually measuring the temperature that is up against her stomach while she is digesting her food, and not the temperature of the air around it. The acual surface that she's basking on should be betwwe 105 and 110 degrees.
Once you get her stomach settled down, and she begins to relax and isn't so stressed, and you get her basking temps up to where they belong, she should be just fine in a week or two, once she's settled into her new home. In the meantime, please keep us posted, and if you have any other questions, or need further help, please feel free to ask, and all of us will be glad to help you, if we can!
Thank you for the big reply the crickets she threw up I fed her. Also she seems to be lounging around and I read stuff about Egg Binding and it seems she has some of the symptoms also the previous owners said she laid 25 eggs in march. Iv picked her up multiple times and she doesn't try to run off she was fairly calm with me. Also is there anything else I can use other then Pedialyte?
Again Thank You.
Again Thank You.
I really don't know of anything other than Pedialyte that you can use, but, if she only threw up the one time, she may not need the extra electrolytes anyway. However, I would still bathe her for about 20 minutes at least every other day, just to make sure that she stays well hydrated, since she really isn't eating too well for you just yet.
Please keep us posted on how she's doing!
Please keep us posted on how she's doing!
DOUBLE POST DELETED BY MODERATOR
Alright, I soaked her in water and pedialyte for about 10 minutes, I only did it for 10 minutes cause she started to get a little upset. After that I tried to feed her a Large Mealworm and she saw the tongs and got excited but she wouldn't eat the Mealworm. I just put some fresh veggies in her tank so she can eat if she wants I also got a Thermometer with a probe and the temp was 105.7 just perfect.
Also if she doesn't eat in the next 1-2 days should I maybe try and dead pinkie? Because thats what the old owners use to feed her and they used tongs and thats why I think she got exited to see the tongs, she also has her eyes closed often and seems a bit depressed but not always and she also looks exhausted.
Also if she doesn't eat in the next 1-2 days should I maybe try and dead pinkie? Because thats what the old owners use to feed her and they used tongs and thats why I think she got exited to see the tongs, she also has her eyes closed often and seems a bit depressed but not always and she also looks exhausted.
I definitly wouldn't advise feeding her any pinkies, either alive or dead, especially considering the way her stomach has been upset since you got her. Pinkies are not good for them at all, and if that's all that she was getting to eat from her previous owners, its no wonder that she has stomach issues. Pinkies are way too high in fat content to be healthy for them, and feeding them on regular basis would almost certainly eventually lead to her developing
Fatty Liver Disease as she gets older, so you probably saved her life by bringing her home, and asking for help in what to feed her, and how to help her become more healthy.
Also, giving her Mealworms is not a good idea either. They have very little meat on them, and are basically all hard shell, which could lead to impaction (a blockage in the intestines that can kill them). Also they have very little nutritional value for a bearded dragon, and letting her fill up with those, will just keep her from eating proper food that is more healthy for her.
For now, until her stomach settles down, I would just continue to offer her veggies, of course, although she may not eat them unless she gets really hungry. One way to get her to try them would be to put a few crickets in her veggie bowl while she's watching. She obviously likes them, since she scarfed them down for you before, when she threw them up.....which doesn't really surprise me, if all her former owners gave her to eat were dead pinkies ! She was probably so thrilled to have some live prey to eat that she couldn't get them down fast enough! LOL Seriously though, if you put a few large ones in her veggie bowl, and make sure she sees you do it, she'll probably go after them, and, if she does, she's bound to get a piece of some sort of veggies in her mouth eventually, and she may find out that they're actually pretty good. Another thing you can try is to put something colorful in with her greens, such as shredded raw butternut squash, which is bright orange, or strawberries or raspberries. Bright colors seem to attract them, so she might decide to try them.
Once her stomach settles down a bit, you may want to try using Superworms as a staple feeder for her. They look almost identical to Mealworms, but there is a HUGE difference, and they would be a great source of protein for her. They still have a hard shell, although not as thick as that on a Mealworm, but they also have a lot of meat on them as well, so they are very nutritious. However, once her stomach seems to have settled down a bit, you'll need to start her out on them gradually and just give her a few at a time, until you see if she can digest them properly. They do take much longer for them to digest than crickets do, so I usually recommend starting a beardie off by only giving them 4 or 5, and then don't feed her anymore until she produces a bowel movement. When she does, check it carefully to make that there are no pieces of undigested worms in there, and if there aren't, then, next time, let her have a few more. Just keep repeating the process, until you get her up to about 12 to 15 at each feeding. However, if she is an adult, she should only be allowed about 30 to 35 a week, so you should only let her have three feedings of those a week, and on the days she doesn't get them, you can offer her crickets, and her fruits and veggies. If she can digest Superworms with no problems, you won't believe how quickly she'll fatten up, and how her overall health will improve.
One thing I should mention, however, is to make sure that you either buy them online, or at a reputable pet shop. They are a bit more expensive (I pay $3.99 for container of 25), and some pet shops will try pass giant Mealworms off as Superworms, because they can charge more for them. The giant Mealworms are treated with a chemically induced growth hormone, which is why they are so large, and that growth hormone is definitely not good for your beardie! The easiest way to tell what you're getting, when you buy them, is to pay attention to the condition of the container when they bring it out to you. If the container is cold, and has been kept under refrigeration, they you aren't buying Superworms, no matter what is says on the top of the container. Mealworms need to kept under refrigeration so that they are in a dormant state, in order for them to remain alive until they're sold. Superworms are kept at room temperature, and putting them in the refrigerator. even for a short while, will cause them to die very quickly, so if the container you're given is cold, then find another shop to buy them from, or you won't get what you're paying for! They are a lot more expensive than crickets, but, you get what you pay for, and they are an excellent staple feeder that I highly recommend, and will improve her health immensely, if she can tolerate them!
I hope you find this information helpful..... If you have any questions, or other concerns as you get her used to being at home, please don't hesitate to ask, and I'll be glad to help, if I can.
Fatty Liver Disease as she gets older, so you probably saved her life by bringing her home, and asking for help in what to feed her, and how to help her become more healthy.
Also, giving her Mealworms is not a good idea either. They have very little meat on them, and are basically all hard shell, which could lead to impaction (a blockage in the intestines that can kill them). Also they have very little nutritional value for a bearded dragon, and letting her fill up with those, will just keep her from eating proper food that is more healthy for her.
For now, until her stomach settles down, I would just continue to offer her veggies, of course, although she may not eat them unless she gets really hungry. One way to get her to try them would be to put a few crickets in her veggie bowl while she's watching. She obviously likes them, since she scarfed them down for you before, when she threw them up.....which doesn't really surprise me, if all her former owners gave her to eat were dead pinkies ! She was probably so thrilled to have some live prey to eat that she couldn't get them down fast enough! LOL Seriously though, if you put a few large ones in her veggie bowl, and make sure she sees you do it, she'll probably go after them, and, if she does, she's bound to get a piece of some sort of veggies in her mouth eventually, and she may find out that they're actually pretty good. Another thing you can try is to put something colorful in with her greens, such as shredded raw butternut squash, which is bright orange, or strawberries or raspberries. Bright colors seem to attract them, so she might decide to try them.
Once her stomach settles down a bit, you may want to try using Superworms as a staple feeder for her. They look almost identical to Mealworms, but there is a HUGE difference, and they would be a great source of protein for her. They still have a hard shell, although not as thick as that on a Mealworm, but they also have a lot of meat on them as well, so they are very nutritious. However, once her stomach seems to have settled down a bit, you'll need to start her out on them gradually and just give her a few at a time, until you see if she can digest them properly. They do take much longer for them to digest than crickets do, so I usually recommend starting a beardie off by only giving them 4 or 5, and then don't feed her anymore until she produces a bowel movement. When she does, check it carefully to make that there are no pieces of undigested worms in there, and if there aren't, then, next time, let her have a few more. Just keep repeating the process, until you get her up to about 12 to 15 at each feeding. However, if she is an adult, she should only be allowed about 30 to 35 a week, so you should only let her have three feedings of those a week, and on the days she doesn't get them, you can offer her crickets, and her fruits and veggies. If she can digest Superworms with no problems, you won't believe how quickly she'll fatten up, and how her overall health will improve.
One thing I should mention, however, is to make sure that you either buy them online, or at a reputable pet shop. They are a bit more expensive (I pay $3.99 for container of 25), and some pet shops will try pass giant Mealworms off as Superworms, because they can charge more for them. The giant Mealworms are treated with a chemically induced growth hormone, which is why they are so large, and that growth hormone is definitely not good for your beardie! The easiest way to tell what you're getting, when you buy them, is to pay attention to the condition of the container when they bring it out to you. If the container is cold, and has been kept under refrigeration, they you aren't buying Superworms, no matter what is says on the top of the container. Mealworms need to kept under refrigeration so that they are in a dormant state, in order for them to remain alive until they're sold. Superworms are kept at room temperature, and putting them in the refrigerator. even for a short while, will cause them to die very quickly, so if the container you're given is cold, then find another shop to buy them from, or you won't get what you're paying for! They are a lot more expensive than crickets, but, you get what you pay for, and they are an excellent staple feeder that I highly recommend, and will improve her health immensely, if she can tolerate them!
I hope you find this information helpful..... If you have any questions, or other concerns as you get her used to being at home, please don't hesitate to ask, and I'll be glad to help, if I can.
beardie parents
BD.org Sicko
I was just going through this again. I'm sorry she died. Obviously something more was wrong with her than anyone could guess. I know how you must hurt, I would be. I'm glad you had her for the little time you did, at least you had a chance to give her some love.
Hunter,
I am so, so sorry to hear that she passed away.......I've lost many pets over the years, and I know how much it hurts when you do everything that you can, but you just can't save them.
Try to take some comfort in the fact that even though she wasn't with you for very long, you made the last part of her life more comfortable for her, with your attention and care, and at least she spent her last few days knowing that she was loved. So many of them never even have that much.
You did all you could, and she's in God's hands now, and isn't suffering anymore. Again, you have my deepest sympathy on her loss.
Denise
I am so, so sorry to hear that she passed away.......I've lost many pets over the years, and I know how much it hurts when you do everything that you can, but you just can't save them.
Try to take some comfort in the fact that even though she wasn't with you for very long, you made the last part of her life more comfortable for her, with your attention and care, and at least she spent her last few days knowing that she was loved. So many of them never even have that much.
You did all you could, and she's in God's hands now, and isn't suffering anymore. Again, you have my deepest sympathy on her loss.
Denise
- Status
Latest resources
-
General Care Practical tips: A healthy brumating bearded dragonPractical tips to help keep your bearded dragon healthy during brumation
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
-
Lighting Beginner Guide to Bearded Dragon LightingA basic lighting setup for any bearded dragon.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
Lighting Introduction to UV LightingMake a more educated purchase on your next UVB light.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
General Care Bearded Dragons - Care SheetAn all-in-one guide to caring for your bearded dragons.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
Latest profile posts
Im needing some questions answered about my female beardeddragon, I honestly have no idea on age , she was a recuse, as ive had a couple in my life an have experience. So 9 weeks in , she earing well pooping well getting comfortable, then approx 3-4 days ago the digging started. So I got a dig box set up in her 75 g tank. Well within 2 hours she dropped an egg. Now only one egg an its been 10 hours.shouldiBworried
В санатории "Сукно" вас ждет полное погружение в мир здоровья и релакса. Эксперты санатория разработают индивидуальную программу оздоровления, которая поможет вам чувствовать себя лучше. Для получения дополнительной информации посетите наш сайт putevka.com/krasnodar/sukko
I just set Swordtail's timer for his bath and paused it so I could actually fill his soaking bowl up and he crawled over my phone and canceled the timer 
Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!