Temp Control

[froggyfields]

I've been having a lot of issues with temp control since winter has came along. My question is: would you recommend a hygrotherm, reptile temp controller or temp gun? And why? Side note: I have a chameleon also. Is there something I could use for both of them? Also what brands are good? Thanks a bunch, my beardie is stressing a bit.

 

[DaveDragon10]

Thermomiter on both sides, temp guns are good for spot checks, but not as a main temp checker. Its important to keep the right temps in your bearded dragon habitat

 

[sleestak]

i just set up my first viv and struggled with the same issue. Temps fluctuate widely in my house this time of year. I ended up hooking a ceramic heat emitter to a thermostat - the zoo med repti-temp 500R and keeping that on the cool side. Hooked the thermostat to a timer and it turns on off the same time everyday. Gets the temp just right and keeps it there without fiddling around. I use a couple separate digital thermometers in the viv to monitor things. Once that was in place and cool side temps were dialed in, I adjusted the basking area to the right temp and put that on the same timer.

Here is a link to an article on the subject - http://www.hadesdragons.co.uk/thermostats.html

If money was not an issue I would opt for one of these -

http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat12redline.html

 

[froggyfields]

thanks for the info but now i'm just confused isn't there an easier way?

 

[KristineM]

Hi there! Sorry you're struggling...we all go through this temp game. First, what are you using for a basking bulb? Household? Flood? Halogen?

I'd start by using the correct thermometer. You can purchase a digital indoor/outdoor Accurite thermometer from Walmart for $12. It has a probe on the end and gives high and low readings of both temps and humidity. The probe must sit ON the spot for 45 minutes to 1 hour for an accurate reading.

Temp guns are wonderful for testing the basking spot but must be held 2 inches away for accuracy.

The easiest way is to get a reliable, accurate thermometer and start trying new bulbs. See what works best.

In my 40g breeder I use a 72w household bulb connected to a dimmer

Makes life a bit easier.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Sauzo]

Well it's normal that the temps fluctuate since morning will be cooler and midafternoon will be warmer. Generally it shouldn't be a problem as it should only be a few degrees difference and the dragon will regulate his/her own temp. For my dragon though, I use a lamp dimmer from Home Depot and adjust it as needed using a 160 watt basking light. I also got a 100 watt Mega Ray MVB and Reptisun 10.0. Harleys basking spot fluctuates from around 105-108 degrees depending on the time of day and she adjusts her needs by scooting under the basking light more or less and the MVB light more or less. The cool side can just be room temp since again, the dragon will move to what temp he/she wants. Just make sure you got a hot spot of 105-110 degrees they can sit under if they want.

But if you are looking for a good thermostat, I use a http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat12.html to run my radiant heat panel in my boas cage and that thing works great. Make sure you get a proportional thermostat though since you want it to dim power as needed, not completely turn it either fully off or fully on. Also http://vivariumelectronics.com/ offer good proportional thermostats which are alittle cheaper than the Herpstats which I've heard good things about but never used one.

 

[froggyfields]

thanks everyone! i went and got the accurite from wal-mart. turns out i was doing fine with the temp! one more question...what should the humidity be?

 

[Sauzo]

I just use room humidity. With it being winter, it should be plenty dry in the air. You generally just don't want a high humidity for them.

 

[rjp322]

Where do you guys keep these thermostats in your cages? I am getting a new cage built that is 5x2x2 (all wood, glass front, and Id like to have 2 thermostats in there (the ones with the probes). My question is where would I put them. Obviously one on the cool side and one near the basking spot but like can I just stick the probes to the side of the cage since I dont really want them to be just laying in the middle of the cage

 

[Sauzo]

You want to put them down low a couple inches off the floor of the cage since cold air settles. That way you get a "true" reading of what the lizard is actually feeling. And yes the other one down on the basking spot or very close if you got a temp gun also so you can temp gun the center of the basking spot.

 

[rjp322]

Ok can I get some feedback on this. http://gyazo.com/18398163160a2f8492de0c110fd67a8e

Above is a screen shot of the lighting and heat I will have in my 5x2x2 cage. The cage maker says he gets up to 100 degree basking spots with a 45 watt bulb because the cages are made so well and trap heat so well. I am still skeptical Anyways on to what Im getting and thoughts? Have 75 watt basking light (have 100s right now I could use also) and 60 watt ceramic heat emitter. Also getting light dimmers for each to even control the temps even more. 48 in UVB bulb obviously. Also getting 2 thermometers that can mount to side of the cage (one on hot side and one on cool side). Getting a probe one also to be sure the digital ones are correct (they have fantastic reviews). Lastly getting a temp gun too for quick checks. Seems like the absolute perfect set up if you ask me

 

[Sauzo]

Seems fine. Getting 100 degree basking spot at a 2ft distance with only a 45 watt bulb? I'll believe it when I see it. Any fully enclosed cage will hold ambient heat well. The trick is you want air circulation so it doesn't turn into an oven. Generally a good set up is an "air hole" be it a screened section or a cut out of whatever in each of the top sides. Then you put the hot spot on one side and cool spot on the other. Then you get air circulation as follows....since cold air settles and hot air rises, the top of the cold side air hole will allow fresh air to come in and settle to the floor since its cooler. Then it flows across the cage to the hot side and then the hot air from that side will cause that air to rise and exit the hot side air hole. That's how my boas cage works. That way you get a circulation of fresh air all the time. Also gotta be careful of humidity since closed cages like that can build and hold humidity very well. My boa cage for example is made from HDPE and holds heat and humidity like no ones business. Even in winter my boa has a 60-70% humidity with only 1 medium water dish. So be careful as dragons don't want that humidity like a boa. Also another trick is put a sheet of 1 inch thick foam insulation like the R-tech stuff from Home Depot between the cage and the table if you keep the cage in a basement as the floor will literally suck the heat out of the cage. This doesn't apply if the table is sitting on a wood floor or a floor with insulation already. Biggest thing to remember though like I said is make sure its got good air circulation or it literally can turn into an oven if the hot air cant escape.

 

[rjp322]

The cage will be vented on all sides. I will probably go with a 60 watt bulb. The light is being installed directly into the top of the cage so it wont quite be 2 feet away.