T-Rex Active UV min distance?

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A girl that I am currently dating is getting her first Bearded Dragon and she has come to me for advice. I am trying to get her to set-up the Dragon right, but the Pet Store where she is purchasing the dragon also has her ear... lol. The problem is that I live over 1000 miles from her so I am not there to be with her while she shops.

One of the things they are telling her is that the coconut substrate is ok to use, or some sort of substrate that reminds her of bird seed, but much larger and isn't really bird seed is what she told me. For the life of me I can't figure out what she's talking about with that one. I have been telling her that she should either use tile or even newspaper for a substrate. I have always used newspaper for most of my reptiles, including my dragon.

Also, on the subject of lighting. I am trying to keep her away from buying fluorescent lighting, not that it's bad, but the MVB from what I can tell tend to be better. My determining factor though on that will be the minimum distance needed. She is buying a 30 Gallon breeder for her Dragon. It's the same size as a 40 Gallon, just 4 inches shorter. So it's 12 inches and not 16 inches. Would that be too close? I'm thinking 100 watts would suffice.

As I said, I'm not there, so I am unable set this enclosure up for her, so I know everything will be put on top of the screen top as far as lighting goes. So a CHE would be out as well as far as I know. They are also trying to talk her into getting a black light for nighttime heating. I myself prefer a UTH.

They have also said that she only needs to feed crickets twice a week. I'm pretty sure they should be fed everyday as that is what I had done.

Edit: The dragon is about 2 years old.
 

peera

Sub-Adult Member
Have you tried directing her to this site, explaining that owners are generally more knowledgable than pet store people because we have a vested interest in keeping our pets healthy?

She's probably talking about millet seed, which I know nothing about as a substrate, but since all loose substrates can harbor bacteria I imagine it's just as bad an idea as sand. Try pointing out that tile is not only safer and easier to clean, but since it never needs replaced, is much, much cheaper than any other option?

I believe the min distance for a T-Rex bulb is 12 inches, although she may need to get it farther away to get the temps correct (I think max distance is 20 inches? I don't have one, but I'm sure it says on the box).

You're both wrong for the night heating, however. UTH give off unreliable amounts of heat, and if it gets to hot your dragon will not be able to feel that and move before being burnt as they feel heat pretty much entirely from above. Night lights will keep them awake because they can "see" all spectrums of light unlike other reptiles with the "third eye" on top of their heads (that little bump that looks kind of like a bubble). As long as temps don't drop below 60* in your homes at night, your/her dragon will be absolutely fine with no heat source after lights out. It's actually unhealthy to keep them at daytime temps 24/7.

As for feeding, the pet store's actually right for once. Adults only need fed live feeders 2-3x per week, 30-50 crickets a week. Feeding an adult live food every day will cause them to have far to much protein in their diets which can result in fatty liver disease. After a year, the diet should be 80% greens, 20% protein. Salad every day, feeders every other. Giving live feeders every day can cause them to be difficult about the greens... If they get the steak without eating the brussel sprouts, they're going to turn their nose up at the sprouts. ;) I'm actually in the process of breaking one of my girls of this right now... Her former owners gave far to much live food, so she won't eat her greens and I'm ending up feeling like a horrible parent because I'm only giving her a few worms a week so she'll eat more salad.

Good luck, and do try to steer her this way.
 

palomino

Member
I just got my 100W T-Rex Flood bulb last night and the box says that the min. distance from the animal is 12". I was wondering that too. If you have the 100W T-Rex spot light it's 18". I am going to start playing with the distance here soon before I get the bd.

Good luck with your GF. Pet stores can be quite the sellers.
 

LoneGreyWolf20

Member
Original Poster
I have tried to point her towards this site! She's not a forum person and no amount of prodding will get her to visit here.

I though that Beardies were mostly "carnivorous" and eat less veggies then say a Uromastyx which is mostly a herbivore and eats very little in the way of insects? As a matter of fact I thought the care sheets posted on this site also say to feed prey items daily with a selection of greens?

She will not be swayed to using tile. I did get a little more out of her last night on the substrate and it sounds like they are talking about corn cob. The other thing they mentioned was walnut shells.

I will tell her not to worry about heating at night since she says she never drops the heat down in her room below say 62 degrees.
 

NegativeCreep

Sub-Adult Member
Ugh, I know the feeling. My SO lives with me and still wants SAND?!?! in our Blazey's cage. That's when I proceed to tell him that Blazey belongs to me :) (She was originally 'his pet', but that lasted about two days.. now he doesn't do any maintenance or cleaning.. I want it done my way, so I do it all myself...) I'm ok with that. I'm smitten with her.

I think that you will be able to steer her in the right direction. After all, 1,000 miles is tough on a relationship; the communication must be incredible. Good luck!
 
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