Stunted Growth?

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PogoLover

Juvie Member
I have had Pogo for about 6 months. She was about 6.75" and 10g when I got her (probably about 6 weeks to 2 months old). So, she is at least 7 months old now. She is only 9.75" and 45 grams.

She has been trouble since I got her - would only eat a couple of crix a day and then nothing after the first week. I started feeding carnivore care mixed with squash baby food out of an eyedropper and took her to the vet (and then another vet who had much more reptile experience). She took Panacur (I think that was the name) for parasites (vet made me bring multiple stool samples to be sure), and then an antibiotic because the vet thought she has a GI tract infection (some blood in the stool).

After that I kept up with the eyedropper fed mix. She started taking phoenix worms about 6 weeks or so later, but only if I put them in her mouth (not force fed, but held them up to her lips until she opened up to take them). She started growing and gaining and I thought we were over the hump. She got up to more normal numbers of bugs (maybe 40 or so a day combo of phoenix worms and small dubia) and collard greens, still with the baby food squash for variety. Still all of this had to be pretty much held to her lips to get her to eat. After about a week of "normal bug" intake, she regurgitated some bugs (and she had been pooping up to four times a day) - in other words, it was too much. She turns her head when she doesn't want to eat, or clamps her mouth and won't take the food, so I know when she is done. That was November.

I slowed down on the bugs and she maintained weight, but didn't grow. Then she got a limp in one hind leg, and then one front leg. Back to the vet. Vet said it was likely septic arthritis, but could possibly be MBD - put her on Baytril and liquid calcium (to ensure she was getting the proper amount). Stool sample was negative for parasites. The vet also said that she was too fat for her length and that could be causing trouble with her limbs as well.

Her limbs are fine now after two weeks of the antibiotics - she is jumping and running again (albeit slightly more slowly than before - she used to be able to run like a cheetah before). I let her lose a few grams (she had been up to 50, and now she is down to 45). She seems to like being this weight better - can climb, etc. much better.

The whole time I have had her, she has had a Reptisun 10.0 T8 tube (which was replaced with a new one after 5 months). She spends most of her time within 6-12 inches of that tube (no screen). She has had calcium supplements, etc. Her temps are right - she has a wide range of temps in her cage (tested with a temp gun, 80F to 120F - and, yes, she likes being that hot - she will stay at 115 and not gape), and she likes to stay really hot most of the time. She drinks water from her bowl and from her bath all of the time. She poops normally (or maybe a little bit more than normal) - solid green/brown poop with soft white urate and some liquid (she drinks a ton).

Her dubia are fed fluker's cricket food and some apple/banana/carrot at times. Her phoenix worms are fed moist juvenile beardie pellet food.

Everything I have read has said that stunted growth is caused by bad husbandry, but I can't think of what base I haven't covered on the husbandry. She has a tile substrate. I have to hand feed her, so I know exactly what she is eating (phoenix worms, dubia, collard greens, squash baby food, and very occasionally apple/blueberry or banana baby food for variety). I get poop out of the cage within a couple hours. I disinfect routinely.

She has also had stress marks most of the time that I have had her. Over the last month she got completely white bellied for a few weeks (except when she was eating - she always gets dark stress marks while eating!). For a while, she would only get white if I took her out of the cage and let her sit on my shoulder and climb in my hair. The minute I put her back in the viv - stress marks. But I can't carry her around all day (or else no UVB).

Does anyone have any idea what this is all about? Vet says that she is too small to get a good blood sample from. Vet also said that she would likely be dead by now if I hadn't been caring for her the way I have - this is my first beardie but I have been hand her feeding 2-3 times a day for almost 6 months, because other than the first week I had her, she absolutely will not hunt. I have tried feeding cages, bowls of worms/greens in her cage, dropping food in front of her . . .

If I have to feed her like this for the rest of her life, I will. But I am nervous about her size - if I feed her more, she just packs on width not length - as though she were an adult (but she can't be an adult). I need to get her bigger for a good blood test to see if there is something really funky going on. I have tried crix again two different times, but she won't have any of that and holding them to get them in her mouth is impossible. Does anyone know a good place to buy silkworms - maybe she will eat those on her own? Any other suggestions?

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kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Wow she is tiny for her age.

Are your sure she's a central beardie and not a blacksoil/pygmi/Lawsons Bearded Dragon ?

In any case, she's only 6 months old, so she REALLY NEEDS mostly insect protein to grow and will need at least 75% insect protein for another 6 - 12 months IMO.

Have you tried her on silkworms ?..... they are highly nutritious and very beneficial and virtually a perfect lizard food with pretty much perfect Ca/P.

At her size and age she should easily polish off 2 -3 large silkworms per meal (and I'd have her on 2 meals per day for another 6 months to help her grow , dubias or crickets (gut loaded with high Ca/P veg pellets and greens) for morning meal, silks or afternoon meal, and I'd offer greens and grated veg mixed with softened beardie pellets (soak in water or fruit juice) each day (greens and veg & pellets dusted with Ca powder in first thing each day, freshened up with a fine water spray (just to keep it moist).
She will also benefit from overnight enclosure heating , so she can keep her metabolisation high while sleeping (high metabolism ==> she converts food and calcium to new / more beardie = grows faster.
All mine get a 7W heatpad on a simple switching thermostat (remote probe attached to top of the ceramic tile sandwichs I encase my heatpads in , I set my slab thermostat to 36-37oC and run 24/7 and place their hide ontop the "headslab".

My lights on are on a household timer , on 6am , off 10pm. Maybe she can do with long "daylight" hours in which to soak up UVA , UVB, warmth and be active.

I'm running basking spots at 40oC (NOT HOTTER). My cool zone is never cooler than 24oC.

Rex, George, Mildred and Wriggles are all handfed and have always been a goodly portion of the greens and insects by hand.
 

PogoLover

Juvie Member
Original Poster
Hey man - thanks for replying. She does have a CHE for night, so her temps don't get too low at night. She normally sleeps in an area that is about 75F (which is your 24C).

I can definitely set my timers for longer daylight. Right now she has 13 hours daylight.

I am trying to find a place to buy silkworms - I don't know that much about them. I will research it more today.

Her diet is mostly protein - the bugs make up the most of it. She eats a few bites of the baby food and few pieces of collards - but not a lot. Even when she wasn't eating the bugs, the carnivore care was mixed into the baby food for protein.

This morning I just put a humidifier in her room. I am having trouble keeping the humidity up in there over the winter. I also realized this morning, the times that she was happiest, she was in a travel tank which was smaller but also had a daylight blue bulb - maybe she likes that bulb - so I am having my husband pick another one up today to try that. I am thinking about putting an opaque divider in her cage too - maybe she just likes smaller cage (she is small). Her current viv is 50 gal, but her travel cage is 10 gal (I bought it because she needs to come with us when we go to Christmas, etc.).

I just hope she has it in her to make it to adulthood.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
PogoLover":1tb4zb8a said:
Hey man - thanks for replying. She does have a CHE for night, so her temps don't get too low at night. She normally sleeps in an area that is about 75F (which is your 24C).

I can definitely set my timers for longer daylight. Right now she has 13 hours daylight.

I am trying to find a place to buy silkworms - I don't know that much about them. I will research it more today.
might be easier to find slkeworm eggs and some silkworm chow (powder). Will take a couple of months once the worms hatch for them to be big enough to use as staple insect in her diet , bit definitely worth the effort.
Her diet is mostly protein - the bugs make up the most of it. She eats a few bites of the baby food and few pieces of collards - but not a lot. Even when she wasn't eating the bugs, the carnivore care was mixed into the baby food for protein.

This morning I just put a humidifier in her room. I am having trouble keeping the humidity up in there over the winter. I also realized this morning, the times that she was happiest, she was in a travel tank which was smaller but also had a daylight blue bulb - maybe she likes that bulb - so I am having my husband pick another one up today to try that. I am thinking about putting an opaque divider in her cage too - maybe she just likes smaller cage (she is small). Her current viv is 50 gal, but her travel cage is 10 gal (I bought it because she needs to come with us when we go to Christmas, etc.).

I just hope she has it in her to make it to adulthood.

why are you trying to increase room humidity in the room she is housed in ?

Bearded dragons are desert dwellers in their wild natural habitat here in Australia, never heard of anyone wanting higher humidity in a beardie's enclosure , everyone always trying to get humidity under 30% RH and even as low as 20% RH.
The risk is her developing a RI if she's exposed to very high humidity longer term (though that said I know people who live in far north coastal Queensland and the Northern Territory who successfully keep bearded dragons (gets very humid there in the summer (the Wet Season).

I live on subtropical north coast of NSW , and am only about 3 km from the Pacific Ocean and a similar distance from a huge tidal saltwater lake (Lake Macquarie) and am battling to get RH under 50% in summer here (even with our split aircon running 24/7 in summer.

I think the Blue bulb (a light globe ?) is worthless. Best off with either a clear colourless Philips Par38 spotty + a good UV tube (or CFB) or good MVB (which is all her lighting needs in one !!).

She might be feeling overwhelmed and stressed by being in a full sized enclosure (4' x 2' footprint) and may well feel more happy in a smaller enclosure for now , I have my two 2 month old hatchlings in stackable 100L rearing tubs that I converted for raising lizards and to use as hospital / intensive care tub for rescued injured lizards in a number of years ago for this very reason.

Easy to convert these to purpose if you have :
an electric soldering iron
a power drill
screw drivers
cloth tape.
- Essentially I have Nano CFB hood attached to the underside of the lid (2 screws hold it in place)
- I have a ceramic light socket attached to a piece of plywood (attacted to the tub inside longwise in a manner that clears the lid (so I can slide the lid partly off to access the lizard and the contents of the tank) with par 38 spotty inserted. The UVB200 CFB and Par38 are both on the same timer.
(my par38's are 60W, and give me a basking spot about 40oC , a couple of degrees warmer on hot days - I have been know to turn off the basking globe manually when it's too hot to need it).
- I have a big piece of bark and a piece of branch for the lizard to climb up to bask (both cf of my my big bluegum (in my front yard - sheds of "twigs" and bark and sometimes looses branches in wild storms).
- I have grotto for the lizards to climb on or nap underneath
- and each has a 7W heatpad which is sandwiched between 2 layers of ceramic tiles (taped together to stop bugs from getting between the tiles and stop poo from getting in the gap), these are connected to a simple Ebay switching thermostat (set to 36-37oC and run 24/7).
- I'll be adding medium sized hubbahuts for each hatchling shortly (I have larger fake log hides but they take up too much space I want my hatchlings to be able to run about).
- I have no standing water in my beardies' enclosures.
- I do have rock look feeding bowls in the enclosures.
- bedding in the rearing tanks (scot-towel paper towelling) only under the food dish and under the heat slab (crickets can squeeze under underwize) and ontop the heatslab (to collect poos).

ventilation = I made about 100 holes up high on one end of each tub, and similar number down low on the opposite end with a soldering iron.

Took maybe 60 minutes to modify each my 100L tubs. (My tubs have semi-opalescent but easily see through sides - my lizards all enjoy being able to see what's happening outside their tubs.
 

PogoLover

Juvie Member
Original Poster
I am trying to get humidity up because it actually got under 20% in her room. I have so much heating going on in there to keep temps up, that it has completely dried out the room. Even in the summer, that room doesn't get above 50% humidity. Normal in there is 30%-45%, which I was told is appropriate for a bearded dragon (wrong?). The only time she will be exposed to humidity higher than 50% is if she goes outside with me in the spring/summer when it is warmer out - but I would only take her out if it was sunny (and usually humidity is not that high when it is sunny). She actually looks kinda dehydrated even though she drinks a lot and her poop is fine.

I looked around earlier re silkworms - I don't know if I can keep the right conditions to hatch little ones. I will do more research.

I thought the blue bulbs were bad too - but she seemed to like it. Note that I have a double fixture on her basking side, so if I added the blue bulb, it would be in addition to a clear halogen that I already have over there. Right now the second bulb is another basking light to keep the temps up, but the blue bulb would do that as well. Basically, I went with two side-by-side lower wattage bulbs to get a wider range of basking area/temps, rather than one higher watt bulb. That is a recent change, because the one bulb was creating "hot spots" that were too hot and I was worried that she was going to burn her feet on something while climbing around.

Vet thinks she just has a bad immune system in general and I have been lucky to get her this far, but I am going to keep on trying until it looks like she has no quality of life. She is still curious and alert most of the time, so for now, I am just trying to get her less stressed and bigger.

Thanks for your responses (if I didn't say that already).

I have been looking into making a cage such as you are describing. I don't want to move her again this quickly, but I might try that after she is done with this round of antibiotics.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
PogoLover":92by5ntq said:
I am trying to get humidity up because it actually got under 20% in her room. I have so much heating going on in there to keep temps up, that it has completely dried out the room. Even in the summer, that room doesn't get above 50% humidity. Normal in there is 30%-45%, which I was told is appropriate for a bearded dragon (wrong?). The only time she will be exposed to humidity higher than 50% is if she goes outside with me in the spring/summer when it is warmer out - but I would only take her out if it was sunny (and usually humidity is not that high when it is sunny). She actually looks kinda dehydrated even though she drinks a lot and her poop is fine.
Re Humidity
I would not call under 20% RH in the lizard room for bearded dragons an issue, it's good.

If the beardie get's regular moist prey insects and greens and veg (more moisture) and an occasional light misting on the top of it's head or a drink from an eyedropper (or when having an occasional bath) it'll get all the water it needs - they are naturally desert dwellers and rarely see standing or running water or rain in the wild.
I looked around earlier re silkworms - I don't know if I can keep the right conditions to hatch little ones. I will do more research.

Re silkworm eggs - I place my eggs into a sterilised takeaway tub (plastic type) , and seal up with Gladwrap until they hatch and while they are tiny. (Otherwize little house ants and baby roaches will get at them and take them away to eat them).
I have successfully raise silkworms using silkworm chow only for the worms' entire lives. Though IMO new mulberry leafs are better for the baby worms and older tougher leafs are fine for the bigger worms.

I thought the blue bulbs were bad too - but she seemed to like it. Note that I have a double fixture on her basking side, so if I added the blue bulb, it would be in addition to a clear halogen that I already have over there. Right now the second bulb is another basking light to keep the temps up, but the blue bulb would do that as well. Basically, I went with two side-by-side lower wattage bulbs to get a wider range of basking area/temps, rather than one higher watt bulb. That is a recent change, because the one bulb was creating "hot spots" that were too hot and I was worried that she was going to burn her feet on something while climbing around.
you can put a UVB200 in one of the sockets and the halogen in the other. (This is how lots do it here).

It's a matter experimenting with spotty / halogen wattages until you hit on the best wattage in summer and another wattage in winter. I wouldn't run the basking spot hotter than 42oC.

Vet thinks she just has a bad immune system in general and I have been lucky to get her this far, but I am going to keep on trying until it looks like she has no quality of life. She is still curious and alert most of the time, so for now, I am just trying to get her less stressed and bigger.

Thanks for your responses (if I didn't say that already).

If she's alert, active (some beardies are more active than others BTW) and curious , she's doing OK.
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
I somewhat followed Pogo's long story + the struggle. You did a great job getting her to where she is and took the right steps st the right time, She is not a Rankin's or other small morph, just had a sickly, slow start to her life. Great job + great care was taken to get as much nutrition in to a dragon that was ill + not growing. She is stunted and will probably never achieve a large size and it may shorten her life a bit, but there's no telling how well she may still do. I agree that she's a bit pudgy, so keep up the insects but feeding several times a day. Best wishes to her and her dedicated mom. :)
 

PogoLover

Juvie Member
Original Poster
AHBD":2xjp43xn said:
I somewhat followed Pogo's long story + the struggle. You did a great job getting her to where she is and took the right steps st the right time, She is not a Rankin's or other small morph, just had a sickly, slow start to her life. Great job + great care was taken to get as much nutrition in to a dragon that was ill + not growing. She is stunted and will probably never achieve a large size and it may shorten her life a bit, but there's no telling how well she may still do. I agree that she's a bit pudgy, so keep up the insects but feeding several times a day. Best wishes to her and her dedicated mom. :)

Hi, AHBD - I remember your advice way back when I first got her. Thank you. She took a turn for the worse today. The limp is back and she is very lethargic. I am not sure how much more fight she has in her, but I will keep trying.
 
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