Some things you need to know

Hazelthebeardeddragon

Juvie Member
Beardie name(s)
Hazel
I thought I’d post some things that I’ve done research on and I think will help a new beardie owner.

Generally about beardies
-life span in captivity ranges but 10 years is average
-they range from 14-24 inches long
-they reach sexual maturity at 8-12 months
-you can find beardies in most places (pet stores, breeders, rescue, Craigslist, etc. this doesn’t mean all these places are good)
-Care is NOT cheap
-try to avoid silk back morphs as they can have multiple health problems
-no cohabitation at all

Handling/socialization
-first 2 weeks try not to interfere with enclosure/them unless needed
-for bonding feed with fingers or tongs
-leave hand in enclosure or talk to them so they get use to use
-try to get a front opening enclosure so that they see you at their level
-DO NOT pick them up but their legs,tail, or head, instead DO scoop them and support their belly and base of tail

Daily activity
-sleep at night and awake during day (get them on a schedule)
-keep lights on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours so for example 9AM-9PM lights are on and 9PM-9AM they are off
-A timer is recommended

Yearly Activity
-They may brumate in winter
-Brumation can last for a few days to a few months, it depends on your bearded dragon
-Don’t wake your dragon up during brumation unless needed
- In spring (breeding season) your females may start to dig or lay infertile (unless bred) eggs, your males may become agitated

Enclosure
-120 gallon minimum (40 gallon for a BABY)
-zen habitats and custom built enclosures are good but there are many options
-PVC and wooden are both good

Enrichment
-can be offered in the form of rocks, caves, wood, hammocks, ledges

Heating and lighting
-heat from above not below
- need a basking light (NO COLOR)
- 105-110 degrees ideally (your dragon may want it to be cooler or hotter)
-Ambient temperature in the 80s
-you need a gradient of temperatures
-night time temperature can fall to high 60s but no less but also not as warm as during the day
-ceramic heat projector is good if your house is cold
- you need a thermostat

UVB
-NO coil uvb you NEED linear uvb
-Uvb should cover 1/2 to 2/3 of the tank not the whole tank
-Arcadia lighting guide will help with what bulb to get

Humidity
-need low humidity 30-40%
-do NOT spray down cage everyday/at all or moisten soil everyday
-less humidity: increase ventilation
-more humidity: decrease ventilation

Substrate
-it’s up to you but make sure it works for you and your beardie
-non loose substrate: tile, shelf liner, paper towel, newspaper (reptile carpet is not recommended)
-loose substrate: joshes frogs, terra Sahara, Arcadia earth mix arid, topsoil and sand mix (don’t use calcium sand at all)

Diet
-Baby: 80% protein, 20% greens
-Adult: 20% protein, 80% greens
- Plants and insects are vital. Give greens daily to babies and adults
- Babies: bugs everyday 1-3 times a day, as many as they can eat in 10-15 minutes
-Adults: bugs 1-2 times a week
- Dubia roaches, crickets, mealworms, super worms, BSFL, horn worms, silk worms, wax worms (dubias,crickets,silk worms, bsfl are staples)
-Insects must be live
-gut load your insects (you don’t have to do this to BSFL) gut loading is feeding your insects greens, carrots, bananas
-don’t feed bugs you catch from outside
-make sure you have a few places to get your insects so you always have a supply
-find a variety of leafy greens
-turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive (top with things like squash, bell peppers, etc.)

Supplementation
-dust insects in calcium every time you offer insects
- if you have correct uvb lighting you won’t have to use calcium with d3 as often but you will need to use it sometimes
-you need calcium with D3 and calcium without D3 as well as a multivitamin
Water intake
- most dragons won’t drink standing water
- you need to give your beardie a bath and give water in their salad (make sure you treat this with something like reptisafe)

Cleanliness
-spot clean everyday, deep clean once a month or every other month (depending on if your dragon is messy or not)
-give a bath once a week or less
-bath needs to only be as high as their chest not high enough they can swim
-you may have to trim your bearded dragons nails (only the slim tip at the top of the nail, google will show pictures)

Shedding
-will shed more while growing
-will normally shed in pieces not all in one piece
-don’t peal shed unless you notice it’s stuck shed

Poop
-should have large brown portion and a small white portion
- dragons have their own poop schedule
- poops stink
-proper lighting helps with digestion which leads to pooping

Proper weight and size
-adult will be around 14-24 inches long but it could be stunted and might be smaller
-will vary in weight 300-600 grams depending on size and body proportions
-underweight dragon will have bones showing, sunken eyes, and small tail
-overweight dragons will have thick neck, tail, and legs

Common health issues
-respiratory infection: gaping mouth, bubbles in spit, clicking noise while breathing

-MBD: you cannot reverse this. Bending of limbs, broken limbs

-Mites: little black bugs between scales (don’t mistake for dirt) might look lethargic or be itchy

-Internal parasites: Will impact poop and/or diet. Can come from almost anything

(if you see these please bring your dragon to the vet)
 

xp29

BD.org Addict
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Zen , Ruby ,Snicker Doodles, Sweet Pea, Sinatra
Very good info. That should help newbies get off to a good start 🙂
 

Hazelthebeardeddragon

Juvie Member
Original Poster
Beardie name(s)
Hazel
I thought I’d post some things that I’ve done research on and I think will help a new beardie owner.

Generally about beardies
-life span in captivity ranges but 10 years is average
-they range from 14-24 inches long
-they reach sexual maturity at 8-12 months
-you can find beardies in most places (pet stores, breeders, rescue, Craigslist, etc. this doesn’t mean all these places are good)
-Care is NOT cheap
-try to avoid silk back morphs as they can have multiple health problems
-no cohabitation at all

Handling/socialization
-first 2 weeks try not to interfere with enclosure/them unless needed
-for bonding feed with fingers or tongs
-leave hand in enclosure or talk to them so they get use to use
-try to get a front opening enclosure so that they see you at their level
-DO NOT pick them up but their legs,tail, or head, instead DO scoop them and support their belly and base of tail

Daily activity
-sleep at night and awake during day (get them on a schedule)
-keep lights on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours so for example 9AM-9PM lights are on and 9PM-9AM they are off
-A timer is recommended

Yearly Activity
-They may brumate in winter
-Brumation can last for a few days to a few months, it depends on your bearded dragon
-Don’t wake your dragon up during brumation unless needed
- In spring (breeding season) your females may start to dig or lay infertile (unless bred) eggs, your males may become agitated

Enclosure
-120 gallon minimum (40 gallon for a BABY)
-zen habitats and custom built enclosures are good but there are many options
-PVC and wooden are both good

Enrichment
-can be offered in the form of rocks, caves, wood, hammocks, ledges

Heating and lighting
-heat from above not below
- need a basking light (NO COLOR)
- 105-110 degrees ideally (your dragon may want it to be cooler or hotter)
-Ambient temperature in the 80s
-you need a gradient of temperatures
-night time temperature can fall to high 60s but no less but also not as warm as during the day
-ceramic heat projector is good if your house is cold
- you need a thermostat

UVB
-NO coil uvb you NEED linear uvb
-Uvb should cover 1/2 to 2/3 of the tank not the whole tank
-Arcadia lighting guide will help with what bulb to get

Humidity
-need low humidity 30-40%
-do NOT spray down cage everyday/at all or moisten soil everyday
-less humidity: increase ventilation
-more humidity: decrease ventilation

Substrate
-it’s up to you but make sure it works for you and your beardie
-non loose substrate: tile, shelf liner, paper towel, newspaper (reptile carpet is not recommended)
-loose substrate: joshes frogs, terra Sahara, Arcadia earth mix arid, topsoil and sand mix (don’t use calcium sand at all)

Diet
-Baby: 80% protein, 20% greens
-Adult: 20% protein, 80% greens
- Plants and insects are vital. Give greens daily to babies and adults
- Babies: bugs everyday 1-3 times a day, as many as they can eat in 10-15 minutes
-Adults: bugs 1-2 times a week
- Dubia roaches, crickets, mealworms, super worms, BSFL, horn worms, silk worms, wax worms (dubias,crickets,silk worms, bsfl are staples)
-Insects must be live
-gut load your insects (you don’t have to do this to BSFL) gut loading is feeding your insects greens, carrots, bananas
-don’t feed bugs you catch from outside
-make sure you have a few places to get your insects so you always have a supply
-find a variety of leafy greens
-turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive (top with things like squash, bell peppers, etc.)

Supplementation
-dust insects in calcium every time you offer insects
- if you have correct uvb lighting you won’t have to use calcium with d3 as often but you will need to use it sometimes
-you need calcium with D3 and calcium without D3 as well as a multivitamin
Water intake
- most dragons won’t drink standing water
- you need to give your beardie a bath and give water in their salad (make sure you treat this with something like reptisafe)

Cleanliness
-spot clean everyday, deep clean once a month or every other month (depending on if your dragon is messy or not)
-give a bath once a week or less
-bath needs to only be as high as their chest not high enough they can swim
-you may have to trim your bearded dragons nails (only the slim tip at the top of the nail, google will show pictures)

Shedding
-will shed more while growing
-will normally shed in pieces not all in one piece
-don’t peal shed unless you notice it’s stuck shed

Poop
-should have large brown portion and a small white portion
- dragons have their own poop schedule
- poops stink
-proper lighting helps with digestion which leads to pooping

Proper weight and size
-adult will be around 14-24 inches long but it could be stunted and might be smaller
-will vary in weight 300-600 grams depending on size and body proportions
-underweight dragon will have bones showing, sunken eyes, and small tail
-overweight dragons will have thick neck, tail, and legs

Common health issues
-respiratory infection: gaping mouth, bubbles in spit, clicking noise while breathing

-MBD: you cannot reverse this. Bending of limbs, broken limbs

-Mites: little black bugs between scales (don’t mistake for dirt) might look lethargic or be itchy

-Internal parasites: Will impact poop and/or diet. Can come from almost anything

(if you see these please bring your dragon to the vet)
@taliasharon
 

Chris.

Juvie Member
Beardie name(s)
Luis
So mutch value in this, thank you a lot.
As especially young dragins spent a lot of time shedding and it is a really complicated topic, maybe someone could give some guidelines as well?
Mine is looking like he's about to shed and displaying a lot of strange/unusual behavore. At least I hope it has to do with the shed comming up but as a newbie all of this is quite concerning at first:

- eye bulging
- hiding
- laziness
- less appetite
- stress lines
- darkening of scales
 

Hazelthebeardeddragon

Juvie Member
Original Poster
Beardie name(s)
Hazel
So mutch value in this, thank you a lot.
As especially young dragins spent a lot of time shedding and it is a really complicated topic, maybe someone could give some guidelines as well?
Mine is looking like he's about to shed and displaying a lot of strange/unusual behavore. At least I hope it has to do with the shed comming up but as a newbie all of this is quite concerning at first:

- eye bulging
- hiding
- laziness
- less appetite
- stress lines
- darkening of scales
Yes it is scary especially the eye bulging. I personally am a newbie but I did tons and I mean tons of research and I decided to make this to hopefully help others
 

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