Some questions!

[yellowturtle1]

Hello! I am new here, and to beardiedom, but I am not new to reptile keeping, so I do have some know how here!
First off- I do not own a beardie yet, but I am preparing to in the next several months... so I have some questions I'd like to inquire!
1. I have two empty tank as of now. A 40glong, and one of them ExoTerra door hinge tanks. (IDK the size ) Which would be better for a while? I have a double tank 75g stand, so he/she'd be getting a big upgrade in the future.
2.I'm not a fan of MVB's, but tube lights can be bit of a bother, so would just one (125w, me thinks) MVB be okay in either of those?
3.Wire tops. Would it be okay to use an MVB with a fine wire lid? All my tables and tanks have bunny wire, for air, so I'm not sure!
3. Substrate! Good gosh, sooo many opinions! No sand, I'm not new to that. No repti-carpet, old info too... and I would'nt be choosing tiles first! I want my dragon to be able to dig... So how about coco chips? Big, and too big to swallow. Easy to clean. And diggable!
4. Live succulents?
5. Hammocks. Because I'm such a go-toer, I already made a few! :roll: Do they really like them? How about babies? How's cleaning work out?
6. Soaker dish for beardies? How big? I need to transition from turtle/tort world into lizard...
7. Hides. I'm all about aesthetics and functional tanks, so what's best?
8. Humidity. Again... torts to lizards
9. Temps! I want to nail this!
10. Sticks and stuff. What do your beardies LOVE?
11. Outside time... like I'm thinking in the future, leashes... walks... wandering about as I tend to the 'pastures' :lol: What do I need to know about this?
12. Handling? Everything! I'm a total newb! My current buddies cringe a little when I kiss them... :roll:
13. FOOD! Pellets? Usually a nono, but are there any good ones? Best bugs? Dead bugs? (canned, ect.) Veggies. I'm a PRO at reptile vegisim, but an overview for beardies would be helpful!
14. Brumating? All about it, I'm worried! Personally, I do not hibernate. I'm not currently breeding, and the cons (to me) outweigh the pros.
15. Sink soaking?
16. Misting?
17. Lizard shedding... way different than the 'shedding' I deal with! :?
18. Growth. I'm used to about an inch a year. How does it go down with beardies?
19. Genders. Personally, I want a girl :wink: but a boy would be just fine. What age do they start showing marks? (Years, usually?)
20. I want a baby dragon. I'm prepared. I've been there, done that with another rep, but I want the deets on what they need!
Okay, I know I'll think of some other stuff :roll:
I also know that this long post is discouraging, don't worry, I've answered plenty 20q long threads so I do most apologize!
Thank you so much!
(PS, pics would be great , I try and get some of my sitting tanks and stuff)

 

[CooperDragon]

Hi, welcome to the forum! Some of the guides listed on the right side of the page are very helpful with getting started. They go over equipment, lighting, and general care among other things. I'll do my best to address your questions as well

1. I like having a tank with hinge doors. It's much easier to access without having to move the lights. In general, the bigger the better. A 40g breeder tank would be about minimum for an adult, but you can get away with a smaller tank for the first few months if you need to.
2. T5 high output UVB lights are pretty good and easy to use. If you want to go the MVB route, then I suggest checking with lightyourreptiles.com. The owner of that site is very good at helping with specifics. It will mainly come down to temperatures, keeping in mind that you'll want the MVB at least 12'' from the basking spot. If you have a solarmeter, it makes it much easier to test and adjust the UVB/MVB lights.
3a. A screen top is fine, just keep in mind that the screen will block some of the UVB output. I don't use a top on my tank so I can provide more UV exposure. The lights are suspended above the tank on adjustable lamp stands.
3b. I use ceramic tile because it keeps the nails trimmed and is very easy to maintain. There are quite a few options on this one, but I'd go with something solid and easy to clean unless you're looking into a bioactive soil setup which takes quite a bit of work to maintain as I understand it.
4. I have two small potted kale plants in my enclosure to try to encourage veggie eating. I wouldn't introduce that until your dragon is an adult though if you do. A fresh salad every day is a good thing to offer, but they are about 80% insect diet while they're growing and may ignore the salad for a while. Go here for some salad ideas http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
5. I've used hammocks and the dragons like them. I've heard of toes getting caught in the mesh ones but haven't had that issue personally. A lot of them like to sit upright so logs/sticks are good to have to allow climbing and basking upright as well.
6. Some people put a small water dish in the enclosure but I don't bother. I provide daily or every other day baths in a turkey roasting pan half filled with warm water.
7. At least 1 hide is good to have. You can get creative with it. Anything from a half log to stacked rocks will work as long as it's stable and an appropriate size.
8. I just keep my tank at reasonable room humidity and it's fine. If your house tends to be on the more humid side (over maybe 60% or so) you may want to try to decrease it in and around the tank a bit.
9. For a baby 100-110 in the basking spot, 90s around that, 75-85 on the cool side during the day. Nighttime temps can go down to 65 or so without needing a ceramic heat emitter. Adult dragons don't need quite as much heat and can be closer to 100 in the basking spot.
10. Driftwood propped up against a log is popular. Again, you can get creative here. Lots of stuff to climb on and bask on, along with some hides.
11. Supervised outside time is fine. Lots of people have leashes for their dragons but I don't find that I need it very often. Some people put them in play pens. I let them wander in the grass or back deck a bit (closely supervised) The little guys are a bit faster so they can sneak off more easily. Just keep a close eye on them. Keep them away from outside bugs, especially lightning bugs which are toxic. Mine get free reign of the house while I'm home. I have a portable basking light set up to provide heat as needed. House is somewhat "baby proofed" so he doesn't get into trouble.
12. They get used to handling. They're all a bit different though and have unique personalities. After a while it's usually pretty easy to carry them around. They'll sit on your shoulder as you walk around the house. In the evening when they get sleepy they'll fall asleep on your chest like a baby if you let them.
13. For the babies 80% bugs 20% veggies. Flip that after about a year or so. See my previous link for salad ideas. I like using dubia roaches as staple bugs. Crickets are also popular. You can supplement with some worms too. Here's a guide on worm options https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=197902
14. Not all of them brumate and I don't have experience with it. From what I know, they sleep/get lethargic for an extended period. Just let them be and give them a bath once a week or so and monitor their weight regularly to ensure they aren't losing any. They snap out of it on their own after a while.
15. You can use a sink as a bathtub. I use a turkey roasting pan because it's a good size, portable, and easy to clean (baths can also be used to regulate pooping).
16. I don't mist them. It can be an alternative to a bath and some dragons like to drink the mist, but I just provide a full bath. I wouldn't mist in the tank to avoid increasing humidity.
17. Young ones shed almost constantly as they grow. This slows with age. Just give them baths to keep the skin moist to help with the shed. They don't tend to shed all at once, rather in patches. A hand one week, tail the next, etc.
18. Growth rates vary, but in general a baby will easily fit on your hand. By about a year they will be around a foot long (again, in general) and they can grow as big as two feet by year two. Adults in the 18-20'' range seem common from what I've seen.
19. You can usually determine the sex after a few months. Using the flashlight method helps. https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=197902
20. It's fun to watch them learn and grow up. They are VERY curious when they're young. Babies need a lot of food. Be prepared to by crickets/roaches by the thousand (I went through about 1,000/month) If you get a dubia colony started beforehand, it should be able to keep you supplied. They are pretty easy to take care of.

 

[Esther19]

Welcome to the forum! There are many helpful, informative articles posted that you can find in the "Articles" section to the right of this page. Since kissing is not addressed, I will tell you that dragons can carry salmonella. However, that has not prevented me from kissing my dragons at will.

Great job, Cooper!

 

[CooperDragon]

Good point Esther, I give nose bumps instead =)

 

[yellowturtle1]

Welcome to the forum! There are many helpful, informative articles posted that you can find in the "Articles" section to the right of this page. Since kissing is not addressed, I will tell you that dragons can carry salmonella. However, that has not prevented me from kissing my dragons at will.

Great job, Cooper!

Thanks! Don't worry, I'm all versed in reptile salmonella, so I'm very very clean about how I keep my animals.

 

[yellowturtle1]

Hi, welcome to the forum! Some of the guides listed on the right side of the page are very helpful with getting started. They go over equipment, lighting, and general care among other things. I'll do my best to address your questions as well

1. I like having a tank with hinge doors. It's much easier to access without having to move the lights. In general, the bigger the better. A 40g breeder tank would be about minimum for an adult, but you can get away with a smaller tank for the first few months if you need to.
2. T5 high output UVB lights are pretty good and easy to use. If you want to go the MVB route, then I suggest checking with lightyourreptiles.com. The owner of that site is very good at helping with specifics. It will mainly come down to temperatures, keeping in mind that you'll want the MVB at least 12'' from the basking spot. If you have a solarmeter, it makes it much easier to test and adjust the UVB/MVB lights.
3a. A screen top is fine, just keep in mind that the screen will block some of the UVB output. I don't use a top on my tank so I can provide more UV exposure. The lights are suspended above the tank on adjustable lamp stands.
3b. I use ceramic tile because it keeps the nails trimmed and is very easy to maintain. There are quite a few options on this one, but I'd go with something solid and easy to clean unless you're looking into a bioactive soil setup which takes quite a bit of work to maintain as I understand it.
4. I have two small potted kale plants in my enclosure to try to encourage veggie eating. I wouldn't introduce that until your dragon is an adult though if you do. A fresh salad every day is a good thing to offer, but they are about 80% insect diet while they're growing and may ignore the salad for a while. Go here for some salad ideas http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
5. I've used hammocks and the dragons like them. I've heard of toes getting caught in the mesh ones but haven't had that issue personally. A lot of them like to sit upright so logs/sticks are good to have to allow climbing and basking upright as well.
6. Some people put a small water dish in the enclosure but I don't bother. I provide daily or every other day baths in a turkey roasting pan half filled with warm water.
7. At least 1 hide is good to have. You can get creative with it. Anything from a half log to stacked rocks will work as long as it's stable and an appropriate size.
8. I just keep my tank at reasonable room humidity and it's fine. If your house tends to be on the more humid side (over maybe 60% or so) you may want to try to decrease it in and around the tank a bit.
9. For a baby 100-110 in the basking spot, 90s around that, 75-85 on the cool side during the day. Nighttime temps can go down to 65 or so without needing a ceramic heat emitter. Adult dragons don't need quite as much heat and can be closer to 100 in the basking spot.
10. Driftwood propped up against a log is popular. Again, you can get creative here. Lots of stuff to climb on and bask on, along with some hides.
11. Supervised outside time is fine. Lots of people have leashes for their dragons but I don't find that I need it very often. Some people put them in play pens. I let them wander in the grass or back deck a bit (closely supervised) The little guys are a bit faster so they can sneak off more easily. Just keep a close eye on them. Keep them away from outside bugs, especially lightning bugs which are toxic. Mine get free reign of the house while I'm home. I have a portable basking light set up to provide heat as needed. House is somewhat "baby proofed" so he doesn't get into trouble.
12. They get used to handling. They're all a bit different though and have unique personalities. After a while it's usually pretty easy to carry them around. They'll sit on your shoulder as you walk around the house. In the evening when they get sleepy they'll fall asleep on your chest like a baby if you let them.
13. For the babies 80% bugs 20% veggies. Flip that after about a year or so. See my previous link for salad ideas. I like using dubia roaches as staple bugs. Crickets are also popular. You can supplement with some worms too. Here's a guide on worm options https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=197902
14. Not all of them brumate and I don't have experience with it. From what I know, they sleep/get lethargic for an extended period. Just let them be and give them a bath once a week or so and monitor their weight regularly to ensure they aren't losing any. They snap out of it on their own after a while.
15. You can use a sink as a bathtub. I use a turkey roasting pan because it's a good size, portable, and easy to clean (baths can also be used to regulate pooping).
16. I don't mist them. It can be an alternative to a bath and some dragons like to drink the mist, but I just provide a full bath. I wouldn't mist in the tank to avoid increasing humidity.
17. Young ones shed almost constantly as they grow. This slows with age. Just give them baths to keep the skin moist to help with the shed. They don't tend to shed all at once, rather in patches. A hand one week, tail the next, etc.
18. Growth rates vary, but in general a baby will easily fit on your hand. By about a year they will be around a foot long (again, in general) and they can grow as big as two feet by year two. Adults in the 18-20'' range seem common from what I've seen.
19. You can usually determine the sex after a few months. Using the flashlight method helps. https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=197902
20. It's fun to watch them learn and grow up. They are VERY curious when they're young. Babies need a lot of food. Be prepared to by crickets/roaches by the thousand (I went through about 1,000/month) If you get a dubia colony started beforehand, it should be able to keep you supplied. They are pretty easy to take care of.

Thank you so much! Really helpful. I'll go check out the articles

 

[Taterbug]

1) front open doors all the way. Personally I'd suggest not getting the smaller tank and just focusing on a nice big tank. Doesn't always work out though. Many people use 36x18x18 size - other forums/texts consider 8sq ft floor space minimum for an adult. You have more flexibility and space in a larger setup. 4x2x2 are relatively easy to build.

2) I like the T5 lights too, I have a solar blaster fixture and its really compact - not much bigger than the bulb. Depending on your setup you can use them with a MVB or just a basking light. Both have minimum/maximum effective distance and may not provide the heat needed alone. Metal halide is also an option (uvb and non uvb formats too) that has a great spectrum. check out uvguide.uk.co and the uv meter owners group on yahoo. They are great resources and have info about the effect of screen, reflectors, placement etc. a solar-meter is well worth it if you are setting up anything remotely complex.

3) I use live soil and love it but it is a different beast all together. It digs well, holds a burrow and can be packed down into a sturdy surface. It's not very suitable for a small enclosures and requires its own care. I've used tile in the past and liked it ok. Not sure about coco chips - is it dusty or get moldy like the coco coir? Screen also changes how heat is retained/lost so will effect your cage temps.

4) I'm trying to plan where to plant some edible varieties. Dragons tend to trample or eat plants so I've been told us a challenge.

6) I give a water dish, many people give soaks in a tub.

7) I come from snakes so I give lots of hides. I have a warm and cool hide, as well as out of view partial hideaways. With strong lights hides are even more important.

8) native range is 20-60% most people keep to the low end, but as cooper mentioned room levels are typically good. It's critical to provide ventilation - stagnant air is no good

9) basking site should be a consistent temp about the size of the dragon (or bigger). If you have space you can offer several choices. I have 110, 100 and 90 spots.

10) basking perches should be big enough the dragon can pancake out on it. Provide furnishings so the dragon can comfortably thermoregulate in a variety of zones. Not sure he has favorites since I'll find him perched on anything big enough to support him. I persinaly like rocks and sticks.

13) I feed all fresh foods. Veggies are similar to tortoises but without the weeds/grasses. For meat I rear dubia roaches, silkworms and morio worms. Other roaches (hissing, discoid and laterais) are available in the pet trade too. Black soldier fly larvae are good.

14) my vet encourages giving a cool down period. There's lots of opinions on brumation so read up on it. You may or may not be able to interrupt it and providing a suitable environment (shorter light cycle, lower temps) should the dragons insist would be a good idea.

15) I don't use the sink if I can avoid it. Never the kitchen sink for sure. I use a sterelite shoe box - easy to dump into the toilet. Reasons being salmonella and other pathogens, and I dont want to wipe poop/dirt out of the sink.

16) I spray (big drops) on peppers head and he drinks it up. I've never had a problem with humidity from water dishes, misting or even the soil I use. However, that will have more to do with your house and ventilation of the tank.

18) growth can be about 1/2-1" per week for little babies. Pepper hit about 17-18" and slowed down drastically at 8 months.

19) they can be sexed as shown - the biggest difference is egg cycling which doesn't need a male

 

[yellowturtle1]

Thank you! I love all this help! I would be getting something far larger in the future, but for the moment I have two sitting tanks I could use.