Shedding baby beardie wont eat

[MangosMom1]

Mango has actually been eating fine on his own lately
but today he started shedding his legs and belly and isn't eating much
Will he start eating normally after he sheds?
His tempature is 110f in his tank and he gets a bath every day

 

[talktothetail]

Yep, when they shed they might go off food for a day or two. 110 is a bit hot, try aiming a few degrees less. Everyday bath is not needed unless shedding. When he’s not shedding only give him a bath if he is impacted or smells

 

[Drache613]

Moved by Moderator from General to Health

 

[Drache613]

Hello,

This is very normal behavior, when shedding! The can get quite grouchy when they
are shedding, also. LOL
He should resume his normal eating once he is done with all of the dry, itchy skin coming
off.

Tracie

 

[MangosMom1]

Yep, when they shed they might go off food for a day or two. 110 is a bit hot, try aiming a few degrees less. Everyday bath is not needed unless shedding. When he’s not shedding only give him a bath if he is impacted or smells

it's 109-112 on the basking surface, if he gets too hot will he move to the cool side? How do I lower the tempature? Turn the fan on or something?
Well he is shedding, and some skin just flakes right into the water, yesterday morning I picked him up and he felt dry and flakey, i thought i dried him up into a crisp because i had the heat on last night ( the light was off, I was relying on feel ) so then I ran to the bathroom to put him in some warm water, and he was just shedding, and after a bath he was fine and up running around.
He ate quite a bit more than the last couple days this morning, I was still asleep, but I wake up to turn his light on, I heard him up and munching down his food, and running around his cage.
Also I'm trying to get him off dried mealworms to canned crickets, because the mealworms is all he will eat, and I'm not allowed to have live bugs in the house, but I he just will not eat the crickets, he just lets them dry up under the lamp!

 

[talktothetail]

Yep, when they shed they might go off food for a day or two. 110 is a bit hot, try aiming a few degrees less. Everyday bath is not needed unless shedding. When he’s not shedding only give him a bath if he is impacted or smells

it's 109-112 on the basking surface, if he gets too hot will he move to the cool side? How do I lower the tempature? Turn the fan on or something?
Well he is shedding, and some skin just flakes right into the water, yesterday morning I picked him up and he felt dry and flakey, i thought i dried him up into a crisp because i had the heat on last night ( the light was off, I was relying on feel ) so then I ran to the bathroom to put him in some warm water, and he was just shedding, and after a bath he was fine and up running around.
He ate quite a bit more than the last couple days this morning, I was still asleep, but I wake up to turn his light on, I heard him up and munching down his food, and running around his cage.
Also I'm trying to get him off dried mealworms to canned crickets, because the mealworms is all he will eat, and I'm not allowed to have live bugs in the house, but I he just will not eat the crickets, he just lets them dry up under the lamp!

stop feeding him dried mealworms, they have a hard shell and since their dried that makes them harder. Aka risk for impaction/illness. You arent allowed to have bugs in the house? Any? at all? that is how a bearded dragon grows, live bugs. You need to get some bugs for him, I suggest BSFL or dubias. Freeze dried shouldnt be used as a staple; they remove lots of nutrients from the bugs. look at this post:
viewtopic.php?p=1411520
Not trying to be rude sounding, but you probably should of known they need live food before getting one. Could you go over your set up?

 

[EllenD]

You don't want his Basking Spot Surface Temperature over a max of 110 degrees F, it can severely dehydrate him and can be lethal if it spikes much higher for a long period of time. You can lower the temp by raising the Basking Bulb only (do not move the UVB tube further away, as it must stay within the correct distance of his basking spot to be effective) up a bit, maybe a few inches, wait an hour or so, and then take the Basking Spot Surface Temp again and see what it is, and go from there.

And yes, please, please do not feed your Dragon ANY freeze-dried insects, it's not only because they cause severe bowel impactions, they absolutely do, but more importantly Dragons don't drink a lot of standing water at all, some don't drink any, they get a good portion of their hydration from their LIVE insects and FRESH greens/veggies. Freeze-Dried insects have all the moisture removed from them, in addition to a lot of the nutritional value. You will see a protein, fat, and fiber content on the bottle of freeze-dried insects or the pellets they come with, but what the bottle isn't telling you is that you might as well be feeding him cardboard, it's just as nutritious. Most all of the vitamins, minerals, etc. are removed, all of the moisture is removed, which will definitely result in dehydration, and you should also be Gut-Loading ALL of his insects with the same fresh greens/veggies that you feed him, and obviously you cannot do that with dead, freeze-dried insects...Then you have the impaction and actually a prolapse risk on top of the fact that they aren't healthy for him at all.

Your best bet is to pick a live, staple feeder insect you want to feed him (Not Mealworms!!!), which can be either crickets, several different species of roaches, Silkworms, or BSFL/Phoenix Worms/NutriGrubs, and then find an online vendor and have them shipped to you every month in bulk on a regular schedule. They're cheap and easy that way. I have 1,000 size large BSFL shipped every month to me from www.dubiaroaches.com for $23 shipped. They show up at the same time every month, and I empty them into a plastic tub filled with oatbran or oatmeal, and then every day I throw in a few handfuls of the same fresh greens and veggies that I give my dragons, along with a couple of apple or potato slices for their hydration.

 

[MangosMom1]

Yep, when they shed they might go off food for a day or two. 110 is a bit hot, try aiming a few degrees less. Everyday bath is not needed unless shedding. When he’s not shedding only give him a bath if he is impacted or smells

it's 109-112 on the basking surface, if he gets too hot will he move to the cool side? How do I lower the tempature? Turn the fan on or something?
Well he is shedding, and some skin just flakes right into the water, yesterday morning I picked him up and he felt dry and flakey, i thought i dried him up into a crisp because i had the heat on last night ( the light was off, I was relying on feel ) so then I ran to the bathroom to put him in some warm water, and he was just shedding, and after a bath he was fine and up running around.
He ate quite a bit more than the last couple days this morning, I was still asleep, but I wake up to turn his light on, I heard him up and munching down his food, and running around his cage.
Also I'm trying to get him off dried mealworms to canned crickets, because the mealworms is all he will eat, and I'm not allowed to have live bugs in the house, but I he just will not eat the crickets, he just lets them dry up under the lamp!

stop feeding him dried mealworms, they have a hard shell and since their dried that makes them harder. Aka risk for impaction/illness. You arent allowed to have bugs in the house? Any? at all? that is how a bearded dragon grows, live bugs. You need to get some bugs for him, I suggest BSFL or dubias. Freeze dried shouldnt be used as a staple; they remove lots of nutrients from the bugs. look at this post:
viewtopic.php?p=1411520
Not trying to be rude sounding, but you probably should of known they need live food before getting one. Could you go over your set up?

It's just my grandparents who don't like bugs, and I'm going back to my parents house soon. But Mango won't eat his canned food, which I'm sure are better for him, he will only eat the dry, I offer both tho. I didnt know I would be going to my grandparents house when I got him, and I figured dried was better than nothing until I could get live

 

[MangosMom1]

You don't want his Basking Spot Surface Temperature over a max of 110 degrees F, it can severely dehydrate him and can be lethal if it spikes much higher for a long period of time. You can lower the temp by raising the Basking Bulb only (do not move the UVB tube further away, as it must stay within the correct distance of his basking spot to be effective) up a bit, maybe a few inches, wait an hour or so, and then take the Basking Spot Surface Temp again and see what it is, and go from there.

And yes, please, please do not feed your Dragon ANY freeze-dried insects, it's not only because they cause severe bowel impactions, they absolutely do, but more importantly Dragons don't drink a lot of standing water at all, some don't drink any, they get a good portion of their hydration from their LIVE insects and FRESH greens/veggies. Freeze-Dried insects have all the moisture removed from them, in addition to a lot of the nutritional value. You will see a protein, fat, and fiber content on the bottle of freeze-dried insects or the pellets they come with, but what the bottle isn't telling you is that you might as well be feeding him cardboard, it's just as nutritious. Most all of the vitamins, minerals, etc. are removed, all of the moisture is removed, which will definitely result in dehydration, and you should also be Gut-Loading ALL of his insects with the same fresh greens/veggies that you feed him, and obviously you cannot do that with dead, freeze-dried insects...Then you have the impaction and actually a prolapse risk on top of the fact that they aren't healthy for him at all.

Your best bet is to pick a live, staple feeder insect you want to feed him (Not Mealworms!!!), which can be either crickets, several different species of roaches, Silkworms, or BSFL/Phoenix Worms/NutriGrubs, and then find an online vendor and have them shipped to you every month in bulk on a regular schedule. They're cheap and easy that way. I have 1,000 size large BSFL shipped every month to me from http://www.dubiaroaches.com for $23 shipped. They show up at the same time every month, and I empty them into a plastic tub filled with oatbran or oatmeal, and then every day I throw in a few handfuls of the same fresh greens and veggies that I give my dragons, along with a couple of apple or potato slices for their hydration.

He drinks a lot of water through a dropper, and I am getting calciworms soon, and he gets fresh radish greens every day, and he likes carrots for his veggies
And my friend only feeds hers dried mealworms and lettuce, and he's a big boy now, and perfectly healthy

 

[talktothetail]

You don't want his Basking Spot Surface Temperature over a max of 110 degrees F, it can severely dehydrate him and can be lethal if it spikes much higher for a long period of time. You can lower the temp by raising the Basking Bulb only (do not move the UVB tube further away, as it must stay within the correct distance of his basking spot to be effective) up a bit, maybe a few inches, wait an hour or so, and then take the Basking Spot Surface Temp again and see what it is, and go from there.

And yes, please, please do not feed your Dragon ANY freeze-dried insects, it's not only because they cause severe bowel impactions, they absolutely do, but more importantly Dragons don't drink a lot of standing water at all, some don't drink any, they get a good portion of their hydration from their LIVE insects and FRESH greens/veggies. Freeze-Dried insects have all the moisture removed from them, in addition to a lot of the nutritional value. You will see a protein, fat, and fiber content on the bottle of freeze-dried insects or the pellets they come with, but what the bottle isn't telling you is that you might as well be feeding him cardboard, it's just as nutritious. Most all of the vitamins, minerals, etc. are removed, all of the moisture is removed, which will definitely result in dehydration, and you should also be Gut-Loading ALL of his insects with the same fresh greens/veggies that you feed him, and obviously you cannot do that with dead, freeze-dried insects...Then you have the impaction and actually a prolapse risk on top of the fact that they aren't healthy for him at all.

Your best bet is to pick a live, staple feeder insect you want to feed him (Not Mealworms!!!), which can be either crickets, several different species of roaches, Silkworms, or BSFL/Phoenix Worms/NutriGrubs, and then find an online vendor and have them shipped to you every month in bulk on a regular schedule. They're cheap and easy that way. I have 1,000 size large BSFL shipped every month to me from http://www.dubiaroaches.com for $23 shipped. They show up at the same time every month, and I empty them into a plastic tub filled with oatbran or oatmeal, and then every day I throw in a few handfuls of the same fresh greens and veggies that I give my dragons, along with a couple of apple or potato slices for their hydration.

He drinks a lot of water through a dropper, and I am getting calciworms soon, and he gets fresh radish greens every day, and he likes carrots for his veggies
And my friend only feeds hers dried mealworms and lettuce, and he's a big boy now, and perfectly healthy

No, your friends bearded dragon is not healthy, that is a terrible diet