Quick Question..

[Nate278]

Not really much to say here but is 108.5 degrees Fahrenheit a good max temperature for my 8 month old beardie (Soon to be 9 months) Got her about 7.3 months ago or so.


If needed, everything is perfectly fine with her, and she's eating well.

 

[HippieLizards]

Hello,

Yes. That is practically a perfect basking temperature. Do Not hesitate to ask any questions. We're all happy to help.

I Hope you don't mind me asking, But what is your beardie's substrate? What brand of UVB bulb does He/She have? T8 or T5? Coil or Tube? Is The basking Bulb a colored bulb? Or Is it just white?

-HippieLizards.

 

[Nate278]

Hello,

Yes. That is practically a perfect basking temperature. Do Not hesitate to ask any questions. We're all happy to help.

I Hope you don't mind me asking, But what is your beardie's substrate? What brand of UVB bulb does He/She have? T8 or T5? Coil or Tube? Is The basking Bulb a colored bulb? Or Is it just white?

-HippieLizards.

She has the Green Zilla carpet, All Living Things t8 Tube UVB. The basking bulb is "yellow tint", if that's what you call the "White" version.



Ah, and another question. Money isnt an issue with getting a new tank atm, but since she's reaching 16 inches now, should I move from a 40 gallon to a 55 gallon? Or a 75 gallon?

Thanks!

 

[PodunkKhaleesi]

You’ll want to replace the Zilla T8 UVB tube ASAP. House brands (Zilla’s is Petco’s and All Living Things is Petsmart’s) provide ineffective levels of UV (and some Solarmeter tests reveal that virtually no UV is emitted from some of the models). You need a Reptisun T5 10.0 HO UV tube at least half the length of the cage (which, hopefully, is very large. A 40 gallon breeder is considered the bare minimum, but a 4x2x2 gives them a much more ideal amount of space). You’ll want a fixture with a reflector for the T5 tube. You can use the Sunblaster fixture available on Amazon or you buy a fixture with a reflector specifically designed for Reptisuns. Reptisun T5s are proven to emit a desirable level of UV light, while many of the other brands are made in China, have caused vision issues for numerous species, and do not emit adequate UV light. The other proven UV tube is the Arcadia D3+12%, which can be a bit harder to find in the U.S., but it’s another option. A Reptisun T8 can work if it’s within 6” of the basking surface and not obstructed by a screen, whereas the T5 is strong enough to have a mesh cage top beneath it and still emit adequate UV. T8s also need to be replaced every 6 months, whereas T5s need to be replaced just once a year. It’s so important that you address the UV issue immediately. Temperature and UV lighting are the two most crucial elements that will make or break a dragon’s health. Your basking temperature is in the desired range for babies (between 100-110 degrees and no hotter). I’m assuming the basking surface temperature is being taken with a temp gun and that you’re not relying on a stick-on thermometer on the wall of his cage to presume the surface of his basking area is the same temperature of the wall of his cage. If not, get a temp gun pronto (I like the Zoomed digital temp gun available on Amazon and in pet stores). If you’re not taking temperatures using this method his basking surface temperature may be much hotter or colder than 108.5. As for tinted basking bulbs, reptile vision is different than our own, and colored bulbs can warp how they see their environment. Halogen flood bulbs (available at the hardware store) are great because they’re very heat efficient and bright (with no tint). Because they’re so powerful a lower wattage is usually required (vs a standard basking bulb). I currently have a 45 watt halogen floodlight in a 4x2x2 enclosure and it easily gets the basking area to the 95-105 gradient adults need. So if you go this route be very sure you have a temp gun and can monitor temperatures carefully. You may have to experiment with wattages. Someone once recommended a 75 watt halogen to me but it produced temps way too hot to be safe. So always check the temps with new lights before allowing the beardie back in the cage. Once you figure out the ideal wattage, floodbulbs are great because the bulbs are very wide and therefore create a wider hot spot than a narrower more concentrated basking bulb. Whatever route you go, it’s best to stick with bulbs that don’t have colored tints or coatings (including those awful red nightlights).

 

[PodunkKhaleesi]

Also, you don’t have to wait until your baby is an adult to move them to a larger cage. This is a gimmick pet stores often use to sell a customer two cages. Beardies are born into a vast open wilderness—not 20 gallon cages, so a pet store’s argument that you first need to buy a tiny cage so that he isn’t “overwhelmed” has always struck me as bizarre (but profitable). If you go the glass cage route, these can be tougher to heat evenly so you may require a higher wattage heat bulb. I also recommend covering three sides of the cage (giving it the appearance of 3 solid walls), as your beardie will feel more secure and will be less likely to glass surf. If you’re considering a 75 gallon I highly recommend it over something smaller. My guys love to climb and explore every nook of their cages, so I’m a huge advocate of the bigger is better philosophy when it comes to cage sizes.

 

[Nate278]

Amazing Feedback. Definitely will look into it and get the 75 along with the other bulbs. I do use a temp gun rather than the stick on thermometers. It's exactly 108.5 throughout the day. Looking into doing the whole "Custom" rocks and stuff within her cage. Thanks!!