Noob here with enclosure setup questions for a baby beardie

[daddie05]

I recently decided that I was going to get a beardie, and just placed an order with fire and ice dragons. According to fireandicedragons, the tank/terrarium that I was building according to the research I did is a no-go. The tank that I have measures at 48" long, 12ft width, and 17" in height. Is that too big for a 6-8 week old beardie? Initially I was going to get one that was 1, but the deal didn't go through. As for accessories, I currently have the vitamins needed, climbing branches, food/water bowls, 2 thermometers (one dial), woodchip substrate, a hammock, and a repticare ceramic heat emitter(might return this). I also got this on amazon, but not sure if it'll be effective enough for the heat and uvb bulbs:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F6XW56/ref=oh_details_o01_s03_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fire and ice said that I NEED a 20g tank, a shop light, a 10.0 uvb light tube bulb to fit the shop light, and a basking rock (which I am getting in a bundle on cl).

So Do I really need this shop light for the uvb tube light, or can I just buy:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00101GDIG/ref=oh_details_o01_s03_i05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry for all the noob questions, but I want to be 110% ready when my beardie arrives in august.

 

[Claudiusx]

The tank that I have measures at 48" long, 12ft width, and 17" in height. Is that too big for a 6-8 week old beardie?

No there is no such thing as a tank being too big. As long as you can provide the proper living environment, your tank could be the size of an entire room with no problems.

Now onto some other things in your post.

Throw away the dial thermometer. It is useless.

Throw away the woodchip substrate. You will want to use a solid substrate, not a loose substrate. Good choices would be tile, retpicarpet, non-adhesive shelf liner, paper towels, or even newspaper.

You will only need the CHE if the temps in your house drop below 65 degrees at night. In which case you would want to use it.

That fixture will be fine for heat bulbs. You don't want a uvb bulb that can fit into that.

For dragons, a lot of uvb bulbs on the market have been linked to health issues. Especially the compact coil bulbs. (the last link you posted)

There really are only two good bulbs for our dragons. These are the reptisun 10.0 tube, and the arcadia 12% tube. Each of these is a fluorescent bulb so you will need a fluorescent fixture.

-Brandon

 

[daddie05]

Thanks for the quick reply Brandon. This is the heat emitter that I bought, but I overlooked that it is for high humidity terrariums:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F9CV7K/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As far as the size of the tank, should I have a separate [smaller] feeding container?

Can I put to heat bulbs on the light fixture that I got, or would that overdue it? Should I get a timer or do the uvb/heat lights stay on 24/7?

How long does the fluorescent fixture for the uvb tube need to be? As long as the tank? 1/4, a 1/3? Would I just lay it over the screen cover, or put it inside?

Also, what accessories are must-haves for beardies? I want my boy to be happy.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

 

[Claudiusx]

The CHE will still work fine for your dragon.

It is probably a good idea, especially if you are going to be feeding crickets. You don't want the crickets to go hiding in the cage and bothering your dragon all night.

You can put two heat bulbs in the fixture, but likely you will only need one. You just want to make sure your temperatures are correct.

The uvb bulb should span 3/4ths or so of the tank. Since your tank is 48in long you will want the 36 inch bulb. So just find a fluorescent fixture made for a t8 sized bulb and will fit a 36 inch bulb and you're golden.

You should mount the uvb inside of the tank. Screens on top of the tank filter out some of the uvb. You want the bulb to be 6-8 inches away from the basking spot in your tank. That's also pretty hard to do if mounting it on top of the tank.

They aren't very picky as far as tank items go.
As long as you provide them a place to bask, thats all they really need to be honest. Anything else you want to add is up to you.

-Brandon

 

[daddie05]

Would the UVB light tube be enough light? Does the heat/uvb lights need to be on 24/7? Do I need a timer? What is the best way to mount the uvb light? Velcro? Is a temp gun a good investment? Thanks again...

 

[Spike1etta]

UVB and Heat light both produce UVA (Visible light) so that is enough. Some people add an extra 15w light on the cool side if they think its too dark, but I don't in my enclosures.

Lights are on 12-14 hours, just buy a cheap timer and hook them in. Rest of the time the BD needs darkness to get a good sleep.

Feeding outside of the tank is a good idea, crickets will chew on your BD all night if left in the cage.

Temp guns are great investment and save time. The big import stores sell them for $10, Northern (or ?? can't remember the other one) and you can find them on Amazon for $12

 

[ju5t1n]

I've heard some people say the beardie might get "Lost" in the cage if it's too big when they are young like finding the basking spot. I haven't had a problem really. My babies tank I had both of mine in (not at the same time 2 years difference between the two) in a 10 gallon fish tank with a 18" UVB Tube light, Zoo Med 25 or 50 watt basking spot lamp, Piece of driftwood under the basking spot, a flat basking river rock maybe about 5x5 inches sitting under the driftwood and paper towels as my substrate. They where only in there for maybe at the most 2 months while I built and aired out my vivarium. They did fine in a 4'x2'x2'.

Those UVB compacts I don't really trust when I got into reptiles they weren't good for them. They might of changed since I started but I wont use them.
Just my 2 cents

 

[Claudiusx]

Those UVB compacts I don't really trust when I got into reptiles they weren't good for them. They might of changed since I started but I wont use them.

They still are crap.

-Brandon

 

[ju5t1n]

lol thank you for clearing that up Brandon.
Yeah after I posted I saw the thread was still up.
http://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=112482

 

[daddie05]

Thanks everyone for your input. I really appreciate it. I just need to get a couple of more things, and i should be set to go. I will post a pic of the terrarium once it is set up.

 

[CountofCasualty]

2 cents, the reason Fire and Ice Dragons say that is because they have their dragons in it. It'll help with relocation stress since it'll be a similar environment to what they've grown up in. So that's why. Otherwise Brandon has answered everything for you.

 

[daddie05]

Hey everyone,
I am back now and have a couple of more questions about my beardie's setup. It's scheduled to be delivered this weekend, but I cannot seem to get the temps good. Fire and ice dragons said that it needs to be 100/80 for the bask/cool side, but my cool side won't go below 89 in the afternoon(80-84 in the mornings). It has been in the high 90s to low 100s where i live and my setup is in the hottest room upstairs. Does the cool side need to be at or around 80 24/7? I don't want to move it because my wife doesn't want it anywhere other than that room so she doesn't have to see it (she is scared of lizards...lol). My basking side seems to get to about 102-103 in a couple of areas only. All the other areas in the basking side are 90 degrees to 97. I am not using a rock under the heat lamp (incandescent 72watt house bulb), but a climbing branch instead. Should I use a rock? Do I need to use a mister on my beardie? Thanks!

 

[daddie05]

I ended up moving my setup downstairs, so I am good now...How do I close this post??? Thanks!