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ChrisWAFC

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First of all i would like to thank everyone for there advise in my previous thread.

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=124071

Im am very new here and im trying my best to make sure i get it right, from all the advise i got i have decided to make my own viv from wood and a sliding front glass door. The size is going to be 4ft L x 1.5ft D x 2ft H is perfect for the space i have and more important my future little man.

I would appriciate you comments on the items below i have selected.

Lighting

http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/arcadia-reptile-lamp-watts-p-2544.html
http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/arcadia-aquatic-ultra-seal-waterproof-controller-2530w-acu30-p-4315.html
http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/arcadia-lamp-reflector-3634-p-1186.html

Basking

http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/arcadia-ceramic-compact-lamp-holder-bracket-p-1180.html
http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/zoo-med-basking-spot-lamp-100w-screw-p-3830.html

Night (If Required)

http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/arcadia-ceramic-compact-lamp-holder-bracket-p-1180.html
http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/zoo-med-ceramic-heat-emitter-60w-ce60-p-4155.html

Thermometer Hygrometer

http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/digital-inout-minmax-thermometer-hygrometer-p-901.html

Thanks in advance for reading and any advice/comments given.

Chris.
 

pudden318

Sub-Adult Member
that all looks great, just remember if you are building your own tank to make sure u put enough vints in it. but other wise your set up is gonna be perfect. also you will only need the che if your night temps drop below 65. your well on your way to providing for a happy healthy beardie.
 

ChrisWAFC

Member
Original Poster
pudden318":83c64 said:
that all looks great, just remember if you are building your own tank to make sure u put enough vints in it. but other wise your set up is gonna be perfect. also you will only need the che if your night temps drop below 65. your well on your way to providing for a happy healthy beardie.

Thanks mate, yes i have see about the vents from the crossfire website. Just trying to figure it all out in my head to make sure i get it right.

I have heard mixed reviews about the Dimmers & Thermostats but i feel so control if not perfect is better than none.

Chris.

Off to bed now, 3.37 in uk enough reading for 1 night.
 

Splurge

Member
I am just about to buy most of this myself and I also have a quick question for people.

With the acradia 12% D3 lamp, would I still need D3 in the calcium supplement, or should the light mean my beardie can produce this?
 

Buggsy

Gray-bearded Member
Yes, even though they say D3 they are not strong enough to make beardies produce their own D3.

I have found thermostats on basking spots dont really work. I had a set up identicle to yours, and with all the erratic weather in the summer it wasn't keeping the basking temp stable enough. (due to how they are made, you need to put the probe half way down the cage, it wont work above 100f. As the ambient temp rose in the summer i was having a hellva time trying to get it all right. I found just attatching a normal dimmer switch to the basking bulb allows easy regulation.)

Apart from that looks like it will be a nice set up.
 

ChrisWAFC

Member
Original Poster
Buggsy":3fe53 said:
Yes, even though they say D3 they are not strong enough to make beardies produce their own D3.

I have found thermostats on basking spots dont really work. I had a set up identicle to yours, and with all the erratic weather in the summer it wasn't keeping the basking temp stable enough. (due to how they are made, you need to put the probe half way down the cage, it wont work above 100f. As the ambient temp rose in the summer i was having a hellva time trying to get it all right. I found just attatching a normal dimmer switch to the basking bulb allows easy regulation.)

Apart from that looks like it will be a nice set up.

What do you mean as a normal dimmer ?
 

Splurge

Member
Cheers Buggsy, I thought that was the case but wanted to check!

ChrisWAFC":307cb said:
Buggsy":307cb said:
Yes, even though they say D3 they are not strong enough to make beardies produce their own D3.

I have found thermostats on basking spots dont really work. I had a set up identicle to yours, and with all the erratic weather in the summer it wasn't keeping the basking temp stable enough. (due to how they are made, you need to put the probe half way down the cage, it wont work above 100f. As the ambient temp rose in the summer i was having a hellva time trying to get it all right. I found just attatching a normal dimmer switch to the basking bulb allows easy regulation.)

Apart from that looks like it will be a nice set up.

What do you mean as a normal dimmer ?

I think she means something like this:

base_media


Is that correct? If so, did you just sit there and play with it until you were getting the correct range?
 

ChrisWAFC

Member
Original Poster
Buggsy":7e8ab said:
similar:
http://www.1stopelectrics.com/image/product/hq1a/2/varilight_1_gang_1_way_400_watt_standard_dimmer_switch_classic_white_plastic_with_aluminium_knob.jpg

from B&Q, very easy to wire up, and i have popped the box just at the top of the cage (on the back not inside) so i can play without disturbing her. and yes, as the weather fluctuates so much over here some days you just need an extra degree, others you will need ten.

Cheers mate, i understand now so just the wall dimmer fitted between the power cord, i rememer i used to have 1 in my bedroom do you find the buzzing disturbs them at all ?

With this dimmer in mind what watt bulb would u advise for my enclosure ? i was thinking 150m basking and 100w ceramic.

Thanks again.

Chris.
 

Buggsy

Gray-bearded Member
no, sometimes i can hear it, most of the time not though. ANd yes you just cut the cable. It depends if your using two or three cord cabe, i have two cord, but it should be self explanatory when youve looked at the back.

Wattages are all trial and error im afraid. I have a platform basking spot, so my basking bulb is 40w, and i have a 60w on the hot end, but not the platform, this was added this winter to make sure she had the proper gradient. I also have a 100w CHE but this is linked up to a thermostat so i dont worry about that one too much!
 

ChrisWAFC

Member
Original Poster
Buggsy":dd3ba said:
no, sometimes i can hear it, most of the time not though. ANd yes you just cut the cable. It depends if your using two or three cord cabe, i have two cord, but it should be self explanatory when youve looked at the back.

Wattages are all trial and error im afraid. I have a platform basking spot, so my basking bulb is 40w, and i have a 60w on the hot end, but not the platform, this was added this winter to make sure she had the proper gradient. I also have a 100w CHE but this is linked up to a thermostat so i dont worry about that one too much!

Thanks again for the advise mate, do you think i should still have my ceramic on a thermostat then just incase it drops too low during the night ?

Chris.
 

Buggsy

Gray-bearded Member
I would. I have mine turned on so if it gets to 70f at any point the CHE will keep it there. It takes the stress out of waking up at night to check the temps!
 

ChrisWAFC

Member
Original Poster
Buggsy":68074 said:
I would. I have mine turned on so if it gets to 70f at any point the CHE will keep it there. It takes the stress out of waking up at night to check the temps!

Thanks, really appriciate all your help.

So i will get a thermostat and ceramic for at night and the dimmer and basking light but my only worry is for the temp change during the day when i am at work.
 

Buggsy

Gray-bearded Member
i took a few days off (the weekend and like a friday) to monitor them, and they dont fluctuate that much, from 99-104, which is perfect for her. I have tried the thermostats before but was taking soo much time off work to play around with the temps in the summer. generally the house stays constant through the day.
 
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