New BP owner

[GlaedrAg]

I'm adopting my friend's Ball Python. He's been well taken care of and is 13yrs old. "Zeke" is coming with all needed supplies (enclosure, substrate, food dish, hide, heat rock, etc.) I've never cared for a BP before and have heard they aren't that difficult to have. I have some questions for any experienced owners:

1. Should I get another heat source to replace the heat rock? I've heard they aren't the best, but that may just be for my Beardie.

2. I've read information stating that I should feed him once a week, once a month, and even once every 2months. Which is it?? :study:

3. In regards to handling, how often should I attempt this? I try to hold my beardie as much as possible, but have read that BP's aren't quite as social.

 

[WAFisherman]

I'd start doing some homework on this site: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/index.php. I'm sure there are others as well, but as a BP owner, this is the best i've found so far.

Yes, lose the heat rock! An uder tank heater (UTH) is the best. Various types from heat pads to fex watt tape. I'm currently using the heat pads from the pet store. One on the warm side controlled by a rehostat. Eventually i'm going to build a rack system and use the flex watt heat tape and a t-stat.

At his age, I'd think 2 or 3 weeks with an adult rat would be fine. But I'm only familar with young ones so far... Check the site I listed... Frozen\Thawed rat should be the food of choice though. Keep it in the freezer until the a day or 2 before freeding. Put in fridge to thaw as you would meat. Then when ready, place in a dish of warm\hot tap water for a good 20mins (in a zip lock baggie), changing out the water when it cools. You want to serve it warm to the touch and be sure the insides have thawed...

You generally know if they are hungry becuase they will get active when smelling the rat. But don't worry if they reject it. Just take it out after a few hours else it will get rancid (and trash it). Wait a week and try another one. It is fairly common for a BP and other snakes to go several months without eating. They can go off feeding for a number of reasons: health issues, mites, shedding cycle, stress, or just because... With good husbandry, you can be confident that things are fine and that he'll eat when ready...

A glass display tank is not the best for BPs. They are shy and like to hide and privacy. They can stress if on display and don't feel secure. Offer a hide on the warm side and a matching hide on the cool side so he can thermoregulate as needed. If in a glass tank, adding fake plants can help him feel more secure and comfy moving around from one hide to the other.

A bowl of fresh water can be provided. Just change and clean it often. If he is soaking in it often, he could have mites. You typically should rarely seem him in it...

Get a good digitial thermometer\hygrometer combo. You need to know the basking spot temp (under the warm side hide on top of the heat pad) and then on the cool end. Humidity is important as well. A screen top will make managing this very difficult. I have tips for dealing with this if needed...

For handling, a BP is about as social and tame as any snake can be. But only in moderation. Like I said, they like their privacy. Let him rest about a week when you first get him. Then once a day, for 10 mins is pretty good. Once a week is OK too. But during shed i'd leave him alone (watch for the eyes to glaze and kinda turn blueish) and leave him alone for a day or 2 after eating.

Once you have the basics down, they are very easy to care for and rewarding pets. But the basics ARE vital. Check the good caresheets offered on that site.... :study:

 

[Dave94]

It's better thawing it by warm/hot water in a tub/bucket. Take it out of the freezer drop it in the warm/hot water till its thawed.. give it a wipe, and feed..

 

[WAFisherman]

I've found that with the larger rats, it is hard to ensure it thaws completely through that way. If you thaw it in the fridge a day or 2 before, then heat it, you won't have to worry as much about a frozen center. Small mice and fuzzy rats are different as they thaw pretty fast.

 

[GlaedrAg]

Many thanks for the great info. I've registered on that site, but have not received my confirmation email yet. So, I thought I'd hit up BD.org people to see what I could find. I'm going to be getting a UTH pad once I see how large his enclosure is.

Concerning the water. I did do some reading on that site and it was suggested to put a lid on the water that has a hole in it. The BP will be able to enter, soak, and feel safe. Anybody have a set-up like that?

 

[WAFisherman]

BPs don't need to soak. If they are soaking, it could mean they have mites. In fact, if your new snake is from a pet shop, i'd expect mites to show up within the first month...

You typically put 2 hides in. One on the warm side and one on the cool side. A water dish is optional, but would go in the middle typically.

I think what you may be talking about is a 'humid hide' that can be used during the shedding time. I have not needed to use one yet. I am able to control humidity pretty well. I keep it around 40 to 60 normally, then up it to 80% during shed.

What is your setup right now? Glass tank with screen top? Substrate? How do you measure temps and humidity? What are you heating with?

 

[GlaedrAg]

I've yet to see the enclosure he'll be in. I'm adopting Zeke from a friend of mine who's had him since 1995. He told me Zeke has been well taken care of. The only comments I've gotten about the enclosure are that its a terrarium and its about 3.5ft by 2ft in size. I'd assume the height is around 2ft as well if not a bit taller.

I believe the substrate that's in there now is pine shavings. He said there's a heat rock, but that will be replaced with a UTH once I see the enclosure and know what to get. I don't know if there's a thermometer and/or Hygrometer with Zeke. If not, I'll look for a decent digital one at a local pet store. If you have any suggestions as far as enclosure "gear", let me know

 

[WAFisherman]

At first, I'd keep things simple in there. I've seen some very messy snake poos and if you have all kinds of stuff in there, it can be a pain to clean.

I'd stick with Aspen shavings or Cypress. Newspaper and paper towels are fine too - and is what most do who have many snakes in racks and don't want to spend so much time cleaning...

Accu-rite digital thermometers are fine. You can get the indoor\outdoor kind with hygrometer from about 12 bucks.

If he is in a glass tank or any custom job for that matter, I'd be sure that 3 sides are covered. This helps keep it insulated and helps him feel more secure.

If the top is wide open mesh\screen, you'll have trouble with humidity. Most cover the top about 80 to 90% with plastic wrap, alum foil, foil tape, plexi-glass, foam board, etc. This will help greatly in keeping in humidity and managing constant temps.

 

[lacy_black]

My balls are in bins, same as my other 4 snakes. They don't have hides, their bins are covered so its always dark for them. Thy also don't have water dishes, we bath all 6 snakes weekly. I use shredded paper as a substrate, easy to clean and they can safely burrow if they want. I've never had a bad shed from any of my snakes and they all eat well.
Soon i'll be breeding hamsters for food because it gets pricey spending $26 every other week on rats and mice :shock:

 

[GlaedrAg]

I really appreciate the input folks

Lacy--I'm interested in hearing how your hamster raising goes. I may be interested in something like that down the road.

 

[WAFisherman]

My balls are in bins, same as my other 4 snakes. They don't have hides, their bins are covered so its always dark for them. Thy also don't have water dishes, we bath all 6 snakes weekly. I use shredded paper as a substrate, easy to clean and they can safely burrow if they want. I've never had a bad shed from any of my snakes and they all eat well.
Soon i'll be breeding hamsters for food because it gets pricey spending $26 every other week on rats and mice :shock:

My snakes are in bins as well, but I do include hides. BPs really like a snug hidey spot that seems to just fit them on the top, sides, and bottom. You could always add something, and if they don't use it, remove it.

 

[Dave94]

The bucket of hot/warm water works for me thawing adult/XL rats.

I've found that with the larger rats, it is hard to ensure it thaws completely through that way. If you thaw it in the fridge a day or 2 before, then heat it, you won't have to worry as much about a frozen center. Small mice and fuzzy rats are different as they thaw pretty fast.

 

[herpfreak]

WAfisherman said it: ball-pythons.net/forums is the place to go.

Also: http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide is a good care sheet.

First of all, congrats! BPs are gorgeous snakes, I love them! Many have feeding issues and will go on long fasts. This is a lot of work and stress, but it is all worth it in the end.

As for your questions:

1. Absolutely. Heat rocks are very dangerous; they have been known to overheat, which can seriously burn any reptile. I reccommend a heat pad rather than a light or heat emitter. Whatever heat source you get, it is a good idea to have it on a rheostat or thermostat to better control the temps. And, just like with beardies, it is very important to know the temps and humidity.

2. I know what you mean. I have read all kinds of things. However, from taking the average from all of the sources I trust most, I have concluded that every 7-10 days is best, unless your snake is under- or over-weight.

3. BPs are often skittish and jumpy, but they are normally quite docile. I handle mine every day (with exceptions; see below), and she has turned out to be the sweetest girl in the world. I hear most of them are, as long as they are handled several times a week or more. If not handled, any snake will become aggressive. The only times you should not handle your snake are:
-for 24-48 hours after feeding
-during shed (after the eyes turn opaque)
-when your snake is refusing food (handling can contribute to stress, which is the main reason for refusing food)

Good luck! Keep us posted!

 

[GlaedrAg]

I've tried that BP.net forum, but they haven't sent my confirmation email yet. I waited a few days and used an alternate email address, but have had the same results. I'm hoping they get around to sending them as that site is a good source of information.

I have a question concerning the heating. I'm going to get an UTH, but also want to get a thermostat of some kind. I happened across one that ZooMed makes. Are those reliable? I ask b/c I found some thermostats and are in the $100's of dollars while this one is in the mid/upper $20's range.

Here's that thermostat I found: ReptiTemp 500R
Model: RT-500R

 

[herpfreak]

Yes, something similar happened to me. If it doesn't come in a few more days, you can try emailing the admin directly.

Personally, I don't trust thermostats. Too complex for me. I use a simple rheostat (manual dimmer) ($10 at Lowes) for both of my babies.

It is very straight-forward and works great for everything except fluorescents. True, it will not automatically adjust the temp to what you want, but if you monitor a thermometer, you can change the temp little by little. I highly suggest setting up the enclosure a few days before the arrival of your BP; it takes a lot of stress and meddling out of the big moving day.