New Bearded Dragon Owner - BD Acting Differently

[Xazzak]

So before I get started, I did a great deal of research online and speaking with the breeder for about 6-7 months before I bought my bearded dragon (1st reptile). I've had Smaug now going on two months and he shipped at 14 grams in weight. I have been keeping a detailed spreadsheet of his feeding/eating habits and his weekly weight gains. Since his last full body shed (7-3-15...a Friday), he started showing signs of trouble. ***note*** I weigh him every Sunday and he had no weight gains from previous week
The day after his shed, he wouldn't eat all day long. The next day he started eating again, but far less than he normally does. He's still eating, but smaller portions (was eating 60-100 feeders a day, down to about 50 a day this whole week). He wouldn't poop for 2 days after he started eating again, so I started giving him warm baths in the AM and PM daily, in hopes to help his constipation. By the 3rd day, he finally had 3 piles of poop which did contain some undigested feeders, when I came home. I was actually getting ready to give him a couple of drops of mineral oil (per the breeder) to help as a laxative, but he ended up going on his own. After I fed him last night, I came in to check on him and he was lying next to his basking rock, napping...which isn't like him.

So here's detailed info;

Smaug = Age (unknown, under 6 months), Weight (56 grams), Length (7 1/2" nose to tail tip), Distance Between Eyes (1/2")

Enclosure = 20 Gallon Long, no lid. I have a 2 foot shop light fixture that is suspended from a tension rod that holds a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB (only a couple of months of use) that is 12" from the bottom of enclosure and runs full length of enclosure. I'm using a standard clear 40w light bulb with a standard basking light fixture, using a fixture arm to adjust basking light height. Paper Towel substrate, water dish with fresh water daily, fake rock basking platform. I move Smaug to a separate enclosure with his basking lamp when cleaning his used enclosure. I use the water/bleach solution as suggested by many, wash thoroughly with hot water until I smell no bleach, dry with paper towels then air dry with a fan for at least 3-4 hours. This is done weekly on Sundays. His enclosure is kept in a separate room, in a walled nook area on a stand which stands 4 feet off the ground. Lights on for 14 hours (due to work schedule).

Temp Recording = Two AccuRite digital thermometers with probes that also gauge humidity levels for constant recording. I use a PE2 Digital Laser TempGun as the primary for checking temps. Cool Side = 76-82 degrees / Basking Spot = 100-108 degrees with surrounding areas of the basking platform around 90-95 degrees / Humidity = 38-45%.

Diet = Phoenix Worms (7/16" mediums) & Mustard Greens (torn into appropriate bite sizes). I started him on PWs only, then started a mix of PWs and Crickets and now he is back to PWs only because I hated caring for crickets (He seems love eating both feeders). When I was feeding him crickets (appropriate size) I was gut loading with Flukers Orange and Mustard Greens, giving Herptivite multi-vitamin dusting 3 days of the week, dusting with calcium+D3 the remaining days. During the duel feeder stage, he would eat greens and PWs in the AM and crickets in the PM. Now its PWs+ greens in the AM and PWs in the PM. When I stopped feeding him crickets, he was on a PW feeder only diet for 11 whole days with no issues before his big shed. I usually turn on the lights early enough for temps to reach at least 95 degrees before putting in his food for mornings and he eats as soon as he sees his food.

Poop = Prior to issues starting, would poop 1-2 a day, well-formed poop with white urate and "wet ring" around it, which the breeder stated was excess expelled water, meaning good hydration. Poop still seems normal when he goes. Hopefully he has returned to normal defecation practices, but I will see when I get home, since yesterday was the first day he has gone in a few days.

Misting/Baths = Misting with very warm water (comes out cool) twice a day (per breeder's instructions) with baths once a week.

Although even today, he seems quite alert, eyes not sunken or runny, no runny nose, runs around exploring outside the enclosure (highly supervised), inquisitive, loves climbing on me. I don't know what has happened or caused the change in his behavior or eating habits after that last shed. He has also been having occasional light stress markings on his belly. He has gone to eating half of what he used to and has had some recent troubles pooping and isn't gaining as much weight as before. His setup hasn't changed since day one, his eating habits haven't changed (outside of taking out crickets, but again, was fine for 11 whole days prior to the shed, where issues started after). I am at a complete loss and not sure what I could possibly be doing wrong or if maybe he's got parasites or whatever. Suggestions are greatly appreciated...thinking about a vet visit this weekend. Thanks BD community!

 

[haileytaco]

Hello,

Sorry to hear you are having issues with your beardie. It sounds like you are doing everything right and he doesn't seem too off track. Sometimes dragons will just act strange once in a while and we don't know what's going through their heads but they always have a reason for it. Reptiles are very resilient creatures so I would give him another week to adjust by himself and if he is still not acting right, then it may be time to visit the vet. I hope he solves his issues, keep us all posted.

Hailey

 

[Zuzu]

I'm pretty positive I've read that reptiles will eat differently during shed. Even though this is happening after, it might still be a contributor for the stress/lack of eating.

As for the undigested feeders, is he basking for a while after he eats? The basking temps sound like he can get close enough to the lights, but since he is still young you want to aim for around 108/110 temps. You drop temps to about 105 when they are adults. Reptiles need to bask after they've eaten as it helps them to digest their food, which can actually rot in their stomach otherwise. Since their digestion is so dependent on heat, make sure he's basking enough with the right temps.

This is the only advice I can think of, but your setup and feeding is really good!

If you're interested in other feeders, dubia roaches are great. They're much better than crickets (no smell, can't climb, not fast/don't jump, don't bite, live so much longer) and hold more protein, which could help with some weight gain. PWs are fantastic though! If I had the money I would feed PWs along with the dubias lol.

I honestly would not start to worry unless he starts showing lethargy, diarrhea, etc.

You should be proud as a first beardie owner! Many of us have made mistakes, but you are doing wonderful.

 

[Drache613]

Moved by Moderator from General to Health

 

[Xazzak]

Hello,

Sorry to hear you are having issues with your beardie. It sounds like you are doing everything right and he doesn't seem too off track. Sometimes dragons will just act strange once in a while and we don't know what's going through their heads but they always have a reason for it. Reptiles are very resilient creatures so I would give him another week to adjust by himself and if he is still not acting right, then it may be time to visit the vet. I hope he solves his issues, keep us all posted.

Hailey

Thanks Hailey, will do. When I got home last night he seemed to be in much better spirits and had also pooped for the day.

 

[Xazzak]

I'm pretty positive I've read that reptiles will eat differently during shed. Even though this is happening after, it might still be a contributor for the stress/lack of eating.

As for the undigested feeders, is he basking for a while after he eats? The basking temps sound like he can get close enough to the lights, but since he is still young you want to aim for around 108/110 temps. You drop temps to about 105 when they are adults. Reptiles need to bask after they've eaten as it helps them to digest their food, which can actually rot in their stomach otherwise. Since their digestion is so dependent on heat, make sure he's basking enough with the right temps.

This is the only advice I can think of, but your setup and feeding is really good!

If you're interested in other feeders, dubia roaches are great. They're much better than crickets (no smell, can't climb, not fast/don't jump, don't bite, live so much longer) and hold more protein, which could help with some weight gain. PWs are fantastic though! If I had the money I would feed PWs along with the dubias lol.

I honestly would not start to worry unless he starts showing lethargy, diarrhea, etc.

You should be proud as a first beardie owner! Many of us have made mistakes, but you are doing wonderful.

Thanks Zuzu! I try to do my best because animal companions deserve the best care we can provide for them. I have looked into Dubias as well (NEVER crickets again, LOL), but I need to find a decently priced vendor online. I do have that concern that he hasn't had great weight gains lately, but I did weigh him at 56 grams after he finally got that poop out, so that's a +2 gain in a few days. The breeder seemed set on telling me that 110 temps are too high and he should be at 95-100, despite that is the common knowledge over the web for juveniles. I have lowered his basking light to stay in those temp ranges which seems to have shown some improvement. Yes, he does bask after eating, but due to my work schedule I can't keep an eye on him constantly.