New 3yo Beardie, lethargic and REALLY smelly, runny poop?

[dystopoly]

I just bought my very first beardie yesterday and moved her to her new home - a 40gal tank with a basking spot that reaches 110-115 degrees, a big piece of driftwood for her to climb around on, a hide in the cool side of the tank, and a water dish for soaking in. She's 3 years old, and I haven't weighed her yet but she doesn't appear to be unhealthily skinny at all. I read that lethargy was normal for about a week after relocation due to stress, and she is spending most of her time sitting under the basking light and only rarely moving to the side to (seemingly) cool off a little bit. However, this morning about 1 hour after the lights turned on she took a VERY runny, nauseating poop. I know this is not normal for them, but I was wondering if I should be immediately concerned about parasites. I gave her a bath in warm water immediately after she pooped and cleaned her whole enclosure out before placing her back under her basking light. The shop I bought her from mentioned that they fed yellow squash as a staple diet, which I belive can cause runny poop, as can stress, but I can't explain the smell! I'm worried she's overheating herself under the basking light - and the food might be rotting in her stomach. I've checked temperatures with an infrared gun, and they never reach higher than 115 degrees MAX - is that too high for her age? Should I be trying to encourage her to move when I read her body temp at a certain level, or buying something for parasites if she continues to have really smelly poops? Please help!

 

[Gail]

For a adult, I would get the temps down to 100-105, they don't need the higher temps like a baby would. High temps won't make food rot in the stomach though, something else is causing the icky poo.

Do you know what kind of insects she has been eating? Superworms can make really smelly poo while silkworms can make it runny. Since she is new, I would give her a week to settle in then go ahead and take in her for a fecal at the vet. Even if her poo becomes normal, a check up is always a good idea with a new pet.

 

[dystopoly]

For a adult, I would get the temps down to 100-105, they don't need the higher temps like a baby would. High temps won't make food rot in the stomach though, something else is causing the icky poo.

Do you know what kind of insects she has been eating? Superworms can make really smelly poo while silkworms can make it runny. Since she is new, I would give her a week to settle in then go ahead and take in her for a fecal at the vet. Even if her poo becomes normal, a check up is always a good idea with a new pet.

Ok, thanks! I just got a lower watt bulb to try and lower that temp a little bit - and I think they were feeding her crickets? All I know about her prior diet is that she had collards, mustard greens, carrots, and yellow squash. I believe I saw them feeding their other beardies crickets. I've got some collards to give to her too, she only took about two bites the first day I got her - and refuses to eat today. I'll keep offering her food every few hours, but I'm assuming that's normal too (because of the stress of relocation)? I went back to talk to them today and they told me they'd been checked and monitored for that stuff and that all their animals are all captive bred - but I do want to get her looked at just in case. Oh yeah - I was also wondering if it's necessary for a beardie to gape? I know gaping means they've reached their ideal temperature, but I haven't seen her gape once. I don't know if it's because she's still uncomfortable in her new enclosure or if she simply doesn't do it at all - but is it something I should be worried about? Sorry about all the uncertainty and questions - I just want to make sure I'm providing her the best possible care since she's my first beardie ever.

 

[Gail]

It sounds like she's had a good diet so the poo is probably just stress related. Offer her food twice a day, once a hour or so after lights on then again around lunch.

Its perfectly normal for them to refuse food and adults are especially stressed by new things. A healthy dragon can go quite awhile without eating, I'd worry only if she started to loose weight. You might pick up a few superworms and see if those temp her, many dragon eat them like candy.

Gapping isn't necessary, its something they do when too hot to cool down quickly. Many dragon never gap while others do it all the time.

Never be sorry for asking questions, thats what we are here for. I'd rather owners ask about care while the dragon is healthy then wait until something goes wrong.