Need Help fixing a care guide

Status
Not open for further replies.

foto69man

Hatchling Member
Hello All...so i just started working at petsmart(please don't boo me, i like the discount) and i was looking at the care guide we have instore:

http://www.petsmart.com/uc/petartic...eptile/care/bearded-dragon/BeardedDragon.html

Well not everything seemed right to me, so i brought it up to our pet care manager. He told me that if i could make all the corrections and give solid explinations for the changes, he'd see what he could do to get it fixed. I know it's a long shot, but it's worth a try right?

So i am asking for everyone's help since I'm sure i'm doing things right, i have a healthy 3 month old beardie...but i'd like the experts here to help provide feedback. Any and all help is appreciated...Thanks!!!

Adam
 

Loganator

Juvie Member
For starters:
1) No mealworms.
2) I'd say no sand, period, for any beardie, adult or not. But others may disagree.
3) 120 degrees is too high, even for a baby.

These are just my opinions from info I have gleaned from this site.

I'll keep looking and let you know what else I notice could be improved. Hope this helps so far!
 

SJM

Hatchling Member
At the top, I would first write that the entire bearded dragon viv should be set up before the bearded dragon is purchased. Thorough research is recommended. Maybe they'd let you link beardeddragon.org.

Nutrition:

Good feeders are crickets, roaches, silk worms, phoenix worms, locusts, etc.
They should be smaller than the space between the beardie's eyes, but that rule of thumb can be stretched a little for worms.
All insects should be insured to be healthy and disease/pest-free. Do research on who you buy from.
Mealworms, waxworms, superworms, and butterworms should only be used as treats. Too much fat content.

Juveniles should be fed 2-3 times a day, allow them to eat as much as they can in 10-15 minutes.
Adults should be fed once a day. 10-15 minutes still applies for live feeders.
Veggies should be offered daily.

Crickets/other live feeders should be dusted with both Calcium Powder and Multivitamins.
Calcium Powder and Multivitamin powders should be SEPARATE.
This website http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html has a good chart on how often to dust.

Habitat:

Vivs that open from the side are recommended for it is less threatening to the lizard. (the store may be against putting this in if they sell mostly top-opened vivs.)

Basking spot should be 100-105 for adults, 105-110 for hatchlings. 120 isn't good for any beardie, as far as I'm concerned.

For lighting, I would elaborate on UVBs, because people don't understand how important they are, and often don't get the correct UVB. I would also explain the difference between the UVB and the basking lamp.

I would only recommend sand or any other loose substrate for fully matured bearded dragons. Otherwise, reptile carpet, papertowel, and newspaper work fine. Those are also suited for adult beardies.

Supply list:

No spray bottle. Misting is generally frowned upon, it raises humidity. If one lives in a humid area, leaving a waterdish is also probably not a good idea. Bathing dragon once or twice a week will suffice. I would include bathing information in the care sheet. Lukewarm water up to their armpits. Supervision required, they can drown easily. Use wrist to test water temperature.

Calcium dust and Multivitamins needed. A folded paper towel soaked in water is sufficient for the crickets to drink, but I don't know if they'd want you to include that because they want people to buy their funky water gel.

This site ttp://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html (same link as before) has a chart on foods to feed a beardie. The ones in green are good staples, you could include those in the care sheet so people know what to feed. I would include to NEVER feed a beardie iceburg lettuce, spinach, or any citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes.

:)
Hope this helps.
 

Pravius

Juvie Member
Loganator":087e3 said:
For starters:
1) No mealworms.
2) I'd say no sand, period, for any beardie, adult or not. But others may disagree.
3) 120 degrees is too high, even for a baby.

These are just my opinions from info I have gleaned from this site.

I'll keep looking and let you know what else I notice could be improved. Hope this helps so far!


I do not think they will go with the "No Sand" bandwagon considering this stuff is a good source of profit for them.

OP I would for sure edit the section saying their tales may come off!
 

SJM

Hatchling Member
Pravius":d5fba said:
OP I would for sure edit the section saying their tales may come off!
Their tails can break off, but I doubt it's very likely to happen.

I'm not opposed to people saying that it will happen though, because it keeps people from pulling on their tails, which I'm sure is very unpleasant.
 

ddma

Juvie Member
I think it's a great idea that you're doing this, since there are so many incidents.
no mealworns , silkworms and super worms preferred
juvies eat 2 x day and i would offer crickets to adults every day
greens with variety of veggies should be offered every day
feeder should be dusted with calcium at least 5 x week
vitamins 1 x week
beardies will not drink from a water dish , instead use dropper and drop
droplets of water on nose --no misting
soak at least 2x weekly, as this will keep beardie hydrated, they absorb the water thru
thier vent.
beardie should be pooping every day , but sometimes skipping a day is not unheard of
no sand, and what ever substrate is used, it should be cleaned daily.
if you revise thier care sheet you should include the website http://www.beautifuldragon.com
for all foods and nutritional information on what to feed your bearded dragon or even better
print it out and include it with the care sheet. also, you could include a shopping list
of all the correct info on cage set up, because most of the time people will get the wrong brand
of bulbs , things they really don't need, and having to make several unneccessary trips back to the store
for things they either forgot , or becuse they bought the wrong thing. hope they allow you to do this. good luck.
 

munchkins9802

Gray-bearded Member
GOod luck Adam. I found 2 caring people at Petsmart and gave them the needed corrections mentioned (particularly that BABIES need calcium 5x/week) as their care sheet is why our HErmes had problems in the beginning as it said calcium every 2-3 days. I even spoke with our manager and he said he couldn't do anything OTHER than pass it onto corporate who is the only one who CAN make changes to their care sheets.
 

Buggsy

Gray-bearded Member
SJM":7cd1a said:
Mealworms, waxworms, superworms, and butterworms should only be used as treats. Too much fat content

Actually superworms ar excellent feeders, i have used them with gizmo for about a year now. Butters are good treats, but thats just due to the expense, not the nutrtional content. I know beautiful dragons say only once in a while but many upon many of us use supers as a staple feeder.
 

Lupe

Member
It should have them listed as a solitary animal (sorry if someone else already said this). I noticed many other care guides on the site have listed weather or not more than one animal can housed in the same enclosure.
 

beardie parents

BD.org Sicko
I got one of those from Petsmart several months ago and read it. I thought it was good for a pet store. I especially liked the fact that they recommeded a 40 tank for them and no sand for babies. Some adults will be bad on the sand if they are still lickers as adults.

The only thing I noticed that I didn't like is the calci sand recommended for adults. The minimum problem with using calcisand for adults is they can get stained a wieard color from that stuff. also, the Kale is an o.k. green but, from what I've read, the kale can bind calcium so it shouldn't be fed all the time, maybe once a month or once ever two weeks.
 

SJM

Hatchling Member
beardie parents":f111b said:
the Kale is an o.k. green but, from what I've read, the kale can bind calcium so it shouldn't be fed all the time, maybe once a month or once ever two weeks.
I feed kale every day mixed with collard or turnip greens and some butternut squash. It's a perfectly suitable staple so long as it's accompanied by another green. Of course people will disagree, but I stand by my statement. Either way, Thor is perfectly healthy eating kale everyday.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Latest resources

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

I just set Swordtail's timer for his bath and paused it so I could actually fill his soaking bowl up and he crawled over my phone and canceled the timer 🤣
Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!
is tape safe for fixing something in my leopard geckos hide?
Day 3 of brumation. It's a struggle. I really miss my little guy. 😔
Mirage entered brumation yesterday, I'm gonna miss hanging out with my little guy.

Forum statistics

Threads
156,349
Messages
1,260,366
Members
76,201
Latest member
Eragon21
Top Bottom